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Old 12-27-2015, 08:16 PM   #15
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A friend here was trying to figure out why his AS and PP hitch were not performing "well"...turns out he had a weak/worn/permanently damaged/ unusable (unsafe) "receivers"... I have had my own 'receiver" failures which were due to poor materials, poor welding, improper strength bolts... ... but above all, I 'bent' them.....I over stressed, overloaded and ignored them....

Some may say it is 'ok' to tow with marginal equipment... and they do... but it risks .... hopefully you won't tear up anything...... or anyone.. especially someone you love......
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Old 12-27-2015, 08:36 PM   #16
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The hitch looks fine. It just has slop. When I get back, the truck is going to Can-Am.

To get it home, I will take some weight distribution off, go slow and watch it close. There is no one here in Juptier, FL who can work on an Ex. The hitches were class V and " blocker bars" the Curt replacement is a class IV.
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Old 12-27-2015, 08:38 PM   #17
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CWF has a point. I was shocked when I read the thread title as a 3P owner. I looked up the Excursion factory receiver rating. I do not know if it is the exact same one as yours but according to the Ford info, the Excursions come standard with a receiver rated for towing 5000 lbs with 500 lb tongue weight for non-weight distributing and 8800 lbs with 1000 lb tongue weight weight distributed hitch. I would say that is the problem- too great a load for the receiver. I do not know your weights but can almost guarantee that you are over based on my 25' Airstream with a 990# tongue weight and 7000# GVW. Your "advertised" weights are 8880# and 885#- my guess is your tongue is more like over 1000.
I disagree with those saying it is poor OEM receivers. Just looked, there are some Class V hitches you might consider. Be safe.
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Old 12-28-2015, 07:36 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Yes...a Reese V Tow Beast.

POI...it too has the bit-O-slop syndrome. A feature noted more with the boat, 380Lb TW, as opposed to the AS with it's 1200Lb TW.

The Reese has a sleeve welded in which has the added benefit of adding some extra thickness to the pin hole to prevent excess ware.




The StowAway hitch tightener can be seen here....boat tow set-up.



....along with my greasy ball cover remover and hitch'n guide rod...

Stream Happy....

Bob
This is exactly the device I use. Works perfectly. The trailer tows even better and less noisy with the slop/play removed from the receiver.
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:35 AM   #19
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I can see how that would help the slop, but not sure how it would help the forces on the receiver.
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Old 12-28-2015, 10:27 AM   #20
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The biggest help is in the design...


The Burb's OEM....short mount arm=poor moment of purchase.


....with this style hitch I could barely move 600lbs with 1400lb WD bars.
The Reese mounts are over twice as long and extra length improves the leverage, enough to move 820 with 1000b bars.

Bob
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Old 12-28-2015, 03:12 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
30+ at GM Stores....

I've never seen shim slop cause a receiver failure....

It's always been cracked welds and/or rust or just plain, poor design.(round tube,short mount arm)

Bob
Bob,

My point wasn't that the shim caused the failure, but rather that using it/them to tighten up a failing receiver only served to preserve the contact surface to continue the failure problem, without resolving it at all.

If his receiver 2" or 2.5" square hole is getting bigger due to either welds failing &/or the metal itself stretching under load, then shimming it up is doing nothing but fill the gap to continue the stretching &/or weld cracking process.

So again I say, if this receiver is already compromised by the heavy load of a relatively large/long/heavy AS - with or without the WD tension/torque cranked in, then that load will continue to push on the receiver to continue the failure process, made worse by bouncing along highways, etc..

IMHO it's tempting fate to tow 1500 miles with a compromised hitch. He may get home okay - but that would be luck as much as anything else, & rechecking that hitch every couple hundred miles may get a warning of final fatal failure ... or maybe not!?

What's that 2015 30' AS worth, versus finding someone to repair or replace the now faulty receiver? .... & knowing there is a problem & not resolving it, then have a damage claim could negate his insurance coverage as well.

If it were me, I'd vote for being conservative & get it fixed/replaced somewhere ASAP - even if nobody in that FL can work on it, & drive somewhere else to get it fixed before towing anymore.

As a licensed Architect for 35+ years & in the construction industry for 50+ - I know something about structural steel failures & preventing them, fortunately none in any of my buildings/projects.

Also, I've used those Curt Rattle Stop U-bolt appliances for my bike & cargo racks, but wouldn't advise them for any WD hitch, since their u-bolts & nuts are not made from strong enough steel for the forces - particularly on a 30' AS jumbo jet.

But personally, I don't find occasional movement in the receiver on turns from our Hensley Cub troubling, & I use a shot of WD40 per the good AF Sargent's advice & that of Terry Powell at Hensley, in order to make the stinger's shifting around a bit smoother.

As opposed to the Curt hitch you show for a GM product, the Ford F150 & 250 hitches have 2 huge plates at L & R which bolt up to the rear side frame members to transfer the WD TQ better than most. I'd assume that the Ford 1/2 & 3/4 ton SUVs would be similar, if not the same design.

However, I'd think of going with a greater than Class V hitch for this 30' jumbo AS .... just to be safe & have more margin of error.

Then Ted, the CanAm guys can do whatever additional mods they see fit when you get home.

Rod, some of the OEM receivers have had some known weak points, but I don't know if this Ford setup is at fault, & tend to agree with you on the rating be short of what the 30' AS needs - & IMHO that F150/250 design is a good one, but just needs to get a heavier duty Class V or better one, as noted above.

Happy New Years All!
Tom
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Old 12-28-2015, 04:53 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Ted S. View Post
If you consider the forces from the hitch in the reciever, the design is compromising. The forces are directed to the top front and lower rear of the reciever interior.
Where is the wear/deformation occurring?

If the stinger is applying force to the top front of the receiver interior and applying force to the bottom rear of the receiver interior, it should be the bottom rear which is being deformed.

The tongue weight, without WD applied, will cause the stinger to exert downward force on the bottom rear interior of the receiver and upward force on the top front interior.

When the WDH generates enough torque, the stinger exerts an upward force on the top rear interior of the receiver and exerts a downward force on the bottom front.

Your description makes it sound to me as though you're not generating enough WDH torque.

Ron
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:00 PM   #23
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I can see how that would help the slop, but not sure how it would help the forces on the receiver.
Something wiggling around independently wallows out the pin hole in the receiver.
Immobilize the shank slopping around- side to side- up and down- stops the wallowing of the receiver and the pin hole- the up and down and side to side motion is all as one unit moving all together- not 2 independent units slopping independently when the vehicle hits bumps or rough road.
Please trust me on this. It really works. It makes the trailer tow better- less wiggling of the truck- quieter- less rattling- takes away noise from the shank/receiver. I wouldn't stand on my soap box unless I knew 110%- been there, done that/walked in those shoes/experience.
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:04 PM   #24
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two parts moving together -shank in receiver- as one unit puts less stress, strain, torque on the receiver/rear of the truck than 2 separate units moving independently-
loose shank puts forces of twist and torque on the receiver-
tight shank, no play, transfers that same force through the receiver to the vehicles frame, distributing the torque over a greater area- not just the pin hole in the receiver-
I'm not sure if any further damage beyond the pin hole would ever happen anyway, but I DON'T WANT TO FIND OUT-
That little $20 gadget takes away the elongated pin hole and any further damage that might or might not occur-
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:12 PM   #25
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I know a person who had a Ford 250 receiver come off while towing with a Hensley hitch. The safety chains and breakaway saved the trailer. So it is definitely something to worry about sooner rather than later.
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:29 PM   #26
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I don't know that the 3P particularly puts more strain there than any other hitch brand/style.
I had the same thing with my Equal-i-zer-


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Old 12-28-2015, 08:04 PM   #27
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3P too much torque for Factory Reciever

m.honey -- it appears you have to tighten up that hitch tightener assembly each time you hitch up? Not too much of a hassle I suppose, but I guess shims may be a bit easier if they can be left in place.
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:36 PM   #28
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No- not if you leave the shank in-
I have to take it off when I need to switch to a different shank- like to go from the 2 5/16 ball for the camper to a 2" ball for a utility trailer-
99% of the time the Equal-i-zer hitch head stays in.


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