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Old 02-06-2014, 10:14 AM   #337
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In my years of towing trailers, since the 70's, I've found it always best to run the rear axle tires at maximum allowable pressure (stamped on the side wall of the tire) adjusted cold. Then a good starting point on the front tires is door sticker setting, adjusting up a little if the front axle is heavier than non towing, or driving at highway speeds in hot weather.

The key is to run the rear tires at max for stability and weight carrying capacity, and adjust the front pressure as needed for handling.
Steve,
I too have tried various settings over the years. One thing I found with this Frontier/SOB combo is this: the truck has BFG P metrics on it ( 265/70-16 ) that have a max allowed pressure of 44psi. Door sticker is 35psi. When I first got this trailer, I noticed that at highway speeds, the rear felt.....I am going to say, "mushy" ( side to side ). Not sway, but just sloppy. I increased rear tire pressure to 44 psi ( trailer tires were at max, 50 psi always ). The rear of the truck felt better, but still not perfect, and my thought was I was still getting sidewall flex from the P tires that was more than desirable.

Fast fwd some months, I took the cheap charlie china load range "C" ST tires off the trailer and replaced with load range "D" LT tires, pumped to 65 psi. Instantly, the sloppy feel was gone. So what I had initially thought was sidewall flex in the tow vehicle tires was actually ( apparently ) flex in the trailer tires.

Back to the inflation issues of the truck tires, when the rears were at sidewall max ( 44 psi ), I could physically see the outermost edges of the tires were not even touching the pavement, and as we would expect, I was getting the typical wear-in-the-middle from over inflation. I have now settled on 38 to 40 rear, and 36 to 37 front as the sweet spot for correct feel/handling, hopefully correct wear, and proper running temp. The only thing I have to check running temps is a cheap IR thermometer, so I don't know how "good" the data is I get from it, but so far it temps seem reasonable, even on long hot days on the interstate.

My theory on slightly increasing the front tire pressure from sticker is this: I am running the weight distribution hitch so the front of the truck is at 100% FALR, so my weight is "normal". However, I "think" ( key word there, because I am guessing ) that even though the front is at normal weight, I suspect having a trailer in tow is adding "some" cornering stresses to the steer tires, so I am attempting to compensate for that by adding a bit of air.

So that is my take on it, you, Ron and the rest, feel free to comment on my ideas if you think I am in error.

Back to Mark's setup on the new 300, again, I was guessing that a good place to start is somewhat over sticker pressures, then fine tune from there. With the wide, low profile tires he has, I was simply thinking that max sidewall inflation may cause him to wear in the classic over inflation pattern. For sure though, if the actual weight on the rear tires demands max sidewall pressure, then I would certainly start there, watch all parameters: handling, running temp and wear.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:27 AM   #338
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I don't disagree with anything you say, and support most all of it.

With the trailers I have been towing, the tow vehicles I have been driving, and the tires I have been using on them, I have not seen abnormal tread wear. Actually, I have seen exceptionally even wear, but that's just with my vehicle, my load, and my tires, not to even imply they are all the same.

The fact that you experienced increased stability when you raised your rear tires pressure confirms what I have experienced.

The front tire inflation pressure on a tow vehicle is always an experiment looking for the best handling, IMHO, but I never start, or go below vehicle sticker pressure.

My experience says if the steering feels "heavy", increase pressure, but if it feels too "light" and or "quick", decrease pressure in the front tires.

This, of course, after adjusting the WD equipment for proper weight distribution, and even that can be "played with" to improve handling if needed.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:38 AM   #339
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from a few year old thread here I found some pix...

The Saturn is towing a 25 footer.
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:23 PM   #340
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Let's not turn this into yet another argument about towing thread, please. That's been done to death in other threads which have all been locked. Got pictures of small TV combinations?
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:30 PM   #341
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Small tow vehicle, medium tow vehicle, large tow vehicleClick image for larger version

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Iroquois Lock, Kentucky fried in Corbin, Suwannee River
Tow vehicles and the theory of relativity. Jim
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Old 02-06-2014, 08:15 PM   #342
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Let's not turn this into yet another argument about towing thread, please. That's been done to death in other threads which have all been locked. Got pictures of small TV combinations?


<<Mod Mode>>

Absolutely. Today we removed some significantly off topic or not nice posts, and as stated previously let's keep things reasonably on topic.

Show]Show us your small Tow Vehicle set-up - Page 5 - Airstream Forums
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Old 02-06-2014, 08:51 PM   #343
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Small tow vehicle, medium tow vehicle, large tow vehicle
Iroquois Lock, Kentucky fried in Corbin, Suwannee River
Tow vehicles and the theory of relativity. Jim
Love it!!
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:32 PM   #344
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The Isetta has the advantage that the bigger the driver, the less WD you need.
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:03 AM   #345
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I have 3 interested parties for my EXC. If it sells I have my eye narrowed down to SUZUKI XL7 and KIA SORRENTO. Both will handle my trailer and when not towing get great mileage.

This thread has been a great help.
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Old 02-08-2014, 10:10 AM   #346
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If you towed an Eddie Bauer with an Isetta, could you park the Isetta inside at night? Just thinkin,,jim
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:02 PM   #347
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I sold the Excursion. I am looking at a 2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara XSport. 2 wdrive tomorrow. I am assuming this will handle my Overlander with the right set up a (which I don't yet know)

Any one knowledgeable on this vehicle? I have been looking for the XL-7 model which has the saem engine, but has 6" shorter wheelbase. Please advise.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:36 PM   #348
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All the info is here including towing specs.

2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara Base 4dr SUV 2.7L V6 5-speed Automatic Features and Specs
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:51 PM   #349
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that says 3000lbs, which seems kinda low.
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:46 AM   #350
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Hi Alan

We set up a couple of these several years ago, I remember driving one and thinking it worked much better than the specs suggested it would. We had originally set it up to tow a hard top but they wanted a full trailer after one trip. They bought a 26' Trail-Lite trailer of the time which towed better than any lite you can buy today but not as easily as your overlander.We set it up with the understanding that they would likely only tow with it for a year or two and then get a more powerful tow vehcle but the customer towed with it for several years. We did change the tire size on it at the time. Not a problem to put a hitch on and it handled quite well considering the wheelbase. I can't point to 50 that are on the road towing like some vehicles but like Subaru Suzuki tends to overbuild.

How many miles are on it and how much are they asking for it?

Andrew T
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