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Old 06-20-2009, 08:24 AM   #57
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Air Compressors ?????

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airperson View Post
Question on 12 volt air compressor - Is there a best one ? I saw one at PEP Boys that connects directly to the battery and I saw one at Wall Mart that connects to a 12 volt power point plug in. They were both with 16 ft. air hoses. The price was about the same $50 something. I have installed new tires but for safety, reasons I thought it might be helpful to have a compressor. Is this a good idea? Do you have a recommendation
Thanks Airperson.
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AP, becareful which compressor you buy some can not air up anything more than a bicycle tire. However even those that can bear in mind that these compressors are not ment for airing tires to full pressure but to air a tire up enough to get it to an air station capable of high pressure. I have one that I bought at lowes and it will air most any tire including the tires on my F250 & Excursion which are truck tires close to full pressure but even then it is putting alot of wear on a small pump. I keep mine with me to air up my tires only when they fall below 3/4 inflation so I can get it to someplace to air it properly.
If you go to Lowes, Home Depot, most any place that sells construction equipment you can purchase an air compressor that will do the job you want but it will cost above $100.00. I personally now that I have a vehicle that I plan to keep for long term use am going to find either used or new an engine mounted compressor to put on my vehicle. I had done this in the past with one other vehicle and found it to be a very useful option and I can not tell you how many times I have been at a park and had people come ask to air their tires because they had gone down for what ever reason. Some even offered to pay.

Sarge
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:57 AM   #58
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Any compressor that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket will not be able to pump up a tire needing 65 psi, or if it ever does get there, it will take a very long time. That socket cannot deliver the amps necessary.

A good compressor will hook directly to the batteries and have a capacity over 100 psi. I found one at Costco for around $65 and it works very well. When I had looked on the internet all I found where the cheap little ones or ones over $250. Compressors for construction like a pancake one will do the job at a campground and may hold enough air for one tire on the road, but are heavy and noisy. Filling the tank at a campground will not make you any friends. Just adding enough air to get you a few miles down the road may be ok, but underinflated tires lead to blowouts.

Our experience is that the trailer tires lost air slowly when we had the OEM rubber valve stems and every couple of days I had to add air to the tires. Since I had metal stems put on they seem to lose less air, but I'm not sure because on our last trip the temperatures changed so much every day, it was hard to know.

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Old 06-20-2009, 09:24 PM   #59
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Compressor

I have had a 110 volt compressor from sears for many years, very compact and light, I have only had to use a couple of times on the road once for a farmers tractor. I just start up my generator if I need it on the road.

Bryon.
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Old 06-21-2009, 09:00 AM   #60
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Quote:
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Hi,
We have just bought an 25 ft. 06 classic. Its wt. is about 5700 We would like to replace the old 150 (has 5.0 E and Low rear end. with towing pkg.) It does not like hills. We do not know which way to go. We would like to travel in the mountains. We would also like to get somewhat good fuel economy.
I know there are many tow vehicles out there used for towing, however I donít have a clue which way to go.
I do not want to rely on a truck salesperson that does not tow himself to guide my decision. I hope some of you folks that have the experience will share your wisdom.
Hello
Any of the new American 1/2 ton trucks would do the job. All of them will get considerably better MPG then your old 5.0. I like the 5.0. If it has the old AOD tranny, or E4OD tranny. you should have the button of the shifter or dash. I reccomend before climbing the hill, pulling it out of O/D. getting the RPM's up into the torque range. O/D was designed for fuel economy, but you loose torque. getting it out of O/D raises the RPM's up to climb the hill. AT 65, pulling it out you should go from around 1700 rpm's to 2400 rpms. (averages)

The newer tranny's are much different. If you get, say a 1/2 ton F150, with a 5.4 liter and the torque shift tranny (6 spd) 3:73 gears, you should get 17 around town, and 24 highway. It will differ alittle when towing an Airstream, but not much, because of the Aero dynamic factor.

Any of the good American Trucks are great for this. I have buddy's that have Rams' and Chevy's. I have a Superduty. They are all Quality, and more reliable then anything else on the market .

Good luck!
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Old 06-22-2009, 05:18 AM   #61
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I sure appreciate all the positive feedback. It is important to me to understand how folks feel that actually pull a trailer. Nothing beets experience. Thanks, Airperson
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Old 06-24-2009, 08:42 PM   #62
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A follow up on the Dodge Ram (4x4 20 inch wheels 5.7l hemi auto 3.90 gear) with AC running as it's hot. Went from Detroit, MI to Charlottesville, VA and back (no trailer but lots of junk in the truck) and averaged 17.34 mpg. On the highway between 65 and 70mph I got 18.5 mpg and around town it was 16 mpg. That's not estimated or what the computer says, it's actual.
Hope this helps someone.
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:56 PM   #63
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Diesel, Diesel, Diesel, and if you can stay away from the 08 and 09 to much junk has been added to the engines. The 08 and 09 have up the power and lowered the fule milage. There are so many government restriction on the newer trucks that you can not do very much to inprove the proformance. All diesels do not sound like Dodges, loud! My chevy is very quit to a Dodge and Fords. The Duramax and Allison transmission is wounderful package. The Allison transmission just makes driving so easy. I have read some of the messages and I know G Stephens and he is telling the truth. He has been at this a lot longer than I have and I put alot of faith in what he has to say. Diesel is the way to go. Pick a brand that you can got serviced because they all will need servicing sometime and go. Happy Trails to You and Yours
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Old 06-27-2009, 12:59 PM   #64
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Diesel engines in light duty trucks are high maintenece. When you go to a dealer, they always sell you on "theyll run for ever, that why semi's have them" well its a whole different animal. If you put a semi engine in a pick it would tear the truck up. But people like the novelty of owning a diesel.

Deisel's dont scream, ( unless it the old 92 detroit) They mash! hence the term "mash the motor".

Diesel engines have many operating rpm's. The reason turbo charged engines historically have 3:55 or 3:73 gears isnt because of low rpm torque, as previously stated, but, a turbo engine builds manifold pressure. this is what drives a diesel engine, pump timing is also crucial. If the engine RPM is to high, manifold presure wont build to optimal pressure, and the engine will never acheive its optimum torque range.

If you have a deisel engine. you should have a pyrometer, and manifold pressure guage. Both are crucial as well. Just because your engine pulls a hill doesnt meen your not doing damage to it. To high of turbo temp ( pyrometer) will hurt the turbo. That is why when you climb a hill, what gear you are in is decided by turbo temp, and manifold preasure. if it gets to high, drop a gear if manifold pressure drops raise a gear, to load the engine. Its not about how fast you get to the top. and DOnt forget to let those Turbo"s cool at the rest stops! before shutting off the engine.
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Old 06-27-2009, 04:23 PM   #65
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In 2004 I was looking to replace an Expedition.
I cooked up a spreadsheet to find the breakeven point of gas vs diesel in a variety of combinations (1/2 ton crew cab gas, 3/4 ton gas, 3/4 diesel).

I don't remember the exact numbers I used, but I calculated it based on an average fuel price of $4/gallon (it was $2.50 at the time - by then February of 05), and I figured it might go to $7 over the course of 7 years, so I used $4 as an overall average).
Here's something of what I recall:
Towing our then 21' square box our our now 31' tube, we got/get between 10/12mpg. I figured 15-17 with a diesel.
Empty I figured 14-15 vs 20-22 (Dad gets 24 with his Dodge pretty regularly).

I was looking for late-model used, and recall using about a $7000 premium for a used diesel. Most of that comes back on re-sale, but not all, and there is the cost associated with the lost value of money (either in interest payments for a loan or in lost income from spent capital). I also calculated some of the extra maintenance expenses.

I recall the break-even came at around 150,000 miles - and I was figuring on owning the truck about 7-8 years and putting something between 7000 and 10000 miles per year on it.

I bought a gas 1500HD truck. It was a business decision over an emotional one.

Since then we've figured out how to arrange things so we don't put terribly many miles on it in a year (more like 5k) so gas was by far the better choice for us. When the 1/2 ton diesels hit the market in the next couple of years I'll be at my 7-8 years of ownership and might have to consider them.

While I'm happy enough with the Chevy, Dad's on his second diesel Ram (300k on the first one, and 120k on #2 so far) and these have worked out very well indeed for him.
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Old 06-27-2009, 07:31 PM   #66
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Light duty truck with a diesel? I don't know of one, As for service my 2001 250HD Chevy/Duramax/Alison, has only had normal service and no replacement parts except for a battery replacement after 4 years, I'm just coming up for 140,000 trouble free miles, most of which towing a 30' Airstream classic.
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Old 06-27-2009, 09:17 PM   #67
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Quote:
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Light duty truck with a diesel? I don't know of one, As for service my 2001 250HD Chevy/Duramax/Alison, has only had normal service and no replacement parts except for a battery replacement after 4 years, I'm just coming up for 140,000 trouble free miles, most of which towing a 30' Airstream classic.
You have one 1 ton and under is considered light duty. then over 1 ton but not including 1 ton is considered medium duty. Then you move to the big boys. No kids allowed! they are class 8 or heavy duty.
The names H/D and Superduty are sales gimmicks for people that dont know. Now we all know

also the break even point for gas to diesel in a pick up is somewhere around 17000 miles a year, factoring in aditional stuff like oil & fuel filters, P/H testing of antifreeze and additives, to adjust it (PH) and anti gelling additive, not to mention electricity for plugging them in. those block heaters draw some juice. Air filters arent cheap, maybe get a K/N and just clean it.
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Old 06-28-2009, 11:52 AM   #68
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Light vs HD

You can have to much truck to do the job in hand, most people do not need 1 Ton and above.

Bryon.
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:09 PM   #69
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Thanks, I am trying to work through and figure out which way to go. The market is such that it seems it doesn’t pay to go pre owned. Airperson
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Old 06-28-2009, 06:24 PM   #70
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There are some good deals on new trucks. If you can find an '08 on the lot that fits your needs it most certainly will be a bargain. My '08 Ram Hemi 4X4 Auto with tow package nicely equipped was $27,200 out the door including taxes. Not bad. You may find one even cheaper now. Also there's a website, www.fueleconomy.gov where you can compare fuel economy on all the new trucks.
Regards,
Dean
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