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Old 03-04-2007, 12:36 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
I'm not sure I'd agree. I did a caravan tow with a Yukon 3/4 ton and 3.73s with me and my 4.10s with a Sub 3/4 ton. There was no noticable difference in MPG between the 4.10s and 3.73s.

I would not suggest the 5.3L for towing a 25 footer. It's not a bad engine, but the 6.0L is the engine to have if you are staying gasser and GM. It's head and shoulders above the 5.3L and when towing, the MPG is going to be fairly similar. With 3.73s or 4.10s at 25' it really doesn't matter all that much as it might if you were towing say 31' or larger.
Ahhh, but the 6 litre GM engine with it's flat torque curve seems to like the higher rpms for some reason. This quirk has been noted and discussed in the PickupTruck.Com: The Online Community for Pickup Truck Enthusiasts forum. The 4.10 is just the ticket over the 3.73 with that particular engine. This does not hold with many other engines out there.
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:55 PM   #30
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Didn't know it had a flat torque curve, but glad I Tim Allen'd it and got the 4.10s just the same. I wonder if the new 6.2L gasser has the same issues.
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Old 03-04-2007, 04:27 PM   #31
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other way around more engine rpms to wheel rpm equals more torque, less speed.
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Old 03-04-2007, 07:00 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by thecatsandi
other way around more engine rpms to wheel rpm equals more torque, less speed.
Negative on the last part, unless you are talking about top speed of the vehicle. I don't think you will ever tow an Airstream that fast. The 4.10 rear end will move the trailer out with less effort on the part of the engine than the 3.73.
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Old 03-04-2007, 08:18 PM   #33
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I think we are thinking the same thing and saying it differently. I know the 4.10 will get more load moving "quicker" but the 3.73 will move the TV quicker to highway speed than the 4.10 will. The engine will be reving higher and most likely be using more fuel.
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Old 03-04-2007, 09:14 PM   #34
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Well, we bought the Yukon XL with a 3.73 today. I feel much more confident than I did this time yesterday!! Thanks to all of you guys for your input.
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Old 03-06-2007, 06:03 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by millvalleyca
Well, we bought the Yukon XL with a 3.73 today. I feel much more confident than I did this time yesterday!! Thanks to all of you guys for your input.
We use a 1500HD with a 6.0L and 3.73 and I feel it is a good match for our 31' (a 1500HD, I believe, is essentially a somewhat stretched 3/4 ton Suburban/YukonXL)
The previous owners of our trailer pulled it with a 5.3L Suburban 3.73, I think, and took numerous trips from Cincy to Orlando, Knoxville, Arkansas, and a couple to Oklahoma. He said he had to be patient going up some hills, but it was never a big deal.
(OT)What a nice guy.
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Old 03-06-2007, 06:59 PM   #36
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The 1500HD would be the exception to the 1500 comments. It's essentially a 3/4 ton in half ton sheetmetal.
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Old 03-07-2007, 03:03 PM   #37
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Hi! This is our very first posting. We just bought an Airstream CCD 25.
Our dealer told us that are tow vehicle is more than enough to pull our new baby. After getting home and looking at the numbers, I'm not sure it is. Here are the numbers. Please tell me if we need to replace our car!
UBW 5,145 lbs
NCC withough options, fluids or cargo 1,855 lbs
GVWR 7,000 lbls

Tow vehicle AWD V8 Saab 97X
Max. Trailer Wt. 6,500 lbs
GCWR 11,500 lbs

Thanks!
Ross
You don't have enough tow vehicle. But, you know that by now. Buy more tow vehicle than you think you need. 3/4 ton trucks or 1 ton trucks don't cost much more (no more if you know what you'r doing) than half ton trucks.


The engine size is the least concern when towing for safety purposes. Get a strong frame, Good brakes....its harder to stop a trailer than it is to start one. ALMOST ALL tailer towing incidents happen because the tow vehicle could not handle the PANIC SITUATION AT THE TIME. The truck has to be in charge not the trailer. If you have are towing your tailer down the road and you feel like you have to be ON TOP of the wheel all the time and can never relax You don't have enough tow vehicle. I tow with a Dually truck....I would never tow without one if I could help it. I would tow my garden tailer with a dually if I had a choice. Why?....I have towed with cars....half tons....vans....PETERBUILTS...and SUV's. GET A real TRUCK TO TOW A TRAILER. YOU will be soooooooooo happy you did later.
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Old 03-20-2007, 07:35 PM   #38
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While on the subject of tow vehicles, we're thinking of putting a 20' Safari behind a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8. Any thoughts on this combination?
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Old 03-20-2007, 08:10 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Roger S
While on the subject of tow vehicles, we're thinking of putting a 20' Safari behind a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8. Any thoughts on this combination?
Welcome, check all the numbers (weights/capacities) but my first reaction is you should be fine...

But please do check, and get a proper WD hitch, bakes, etc.
Be safe...and have fun!

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Old 03-21-2007, 09:19 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger S
While on the subject of tow vehicles, we're thinking of putting a 20' Safari behind a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8. Any thoughts on this combination?
The quick answer is you could be fine - so long as you are very careful with how you load your airstream. But you may prefer to get a bigger vehicle with a class IV hitch. Explanation follows...

First, you need to check your Jeep's hitch reciever. Some are Class III, rated for 750lbs/7500lbs with weight distribution - but some are not.

The 20' Safari's GVWR is 5000lbs. The 2005 Grand Cherokee's max tow capacity is 6500lbs - 80% of which is 5200lbs. So you are fine there.

The Jeep's payload is 1489 lbs. Which should be fine so long as you can keep the tongue weight down...but that is the tricky part.

The 20' Safari's dry tongue weight is 600lbs - before options. The problem is that after you load up with LP, water, and all of your stuff you want to end up at 625lbs (12.5% of 5000lbs). It's not going to happen. But you really need to keep it as far as possible from your 750lb limit. It will be difficult.

You'll add most of the weight of the LP to your tongue weight - and the 20'er has two 30lb bottles. I don't know where the fresh water tank on the 20'er is. But since it has the same 23Gal (192lb) capacity as the 19'er I would guess it is under the front dinette bench rather than above the axles. If so, fresh water weight will add to your tongue weight as well. Similarly, I don't know where the water heater is...but that could add a portion of another 6 gals (50lbs).

So you will have to be very careful how you pack. I assume that there is nice storage above and below the front bed and the wardrobe is in the front as well. You would basically have to ignore it for anything but light weight stuff. It is hard to tell from the floorplan, but it looks like there is relatively little storage from the axles back to the rear. You'ld have to put all the heavy stuff back there.

Not to say that it can't be done. I fight to keep the tongue weight of my 16' Bambi at 400lbs but it is worth it because I love my tow vehicle. But your mileage may vary.
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:46 PM   #41
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ljmii - thanks for the rich response. We do have a class IV on our Cherokee. We've been towing a Casita but it's 2/3 the weight of the 20'er. We don't usually pack a lot but clearly, it can (will) happen. Really appreciate the input!..RS
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:57 PM   #42
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hi roger s and welcome to the forums...

lots of good posts already written here on towing issues, so read 'em!

check your numbers carefully....

any payload in the jeep'r...

like people, pets, fuel, gear, options, roof rack and so on...

REDUCES the towing capacity....

payload is all the above PLUS the tongue weight....

find the gcwr for the jeep; that is the maximum allowed weight of everything rolling...

then calculate 80% of that figure....

you will be very close if not over payload and that adjusted towing number...

cheers
2air'
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