Pump antifreeze

[sylvan]

Do I have to (if so, how do I) get anti freeze into the pump in my 25' Safari? One manual says don't put anti freeze in the fresh water system, just drain it and put anti freeze in the drain traps. Thanks, Jim

[ROBERT CROSS]

Jim,

Here in WNY yes!

Don't forget to drain and by-pass the water heater.

After draining FW tank and blowing the lines, I pump AF thru all the lines, in trap's, shower head and kitchen sink sprayer,(also remove filter). Toilet bowl and sprayer.

Other folks remove the pump inlet hose and pump thru.

I just add three gallons in FW tank and pump thru that way. Quicker than emptying wardrobe to access the pump and then getting chastised for the way I re-locate stuff.

Has worked well since getting the Classic.

Bob

[RickDavis]

It should be kept in mind it is ok to use RV non toxic antifreeze (usually pink) in the water system and pump but NOT automotive antifreeze.
I have found the use of RV antifreeze to be a more reliable way to winterize than just blowing out the lines.

[Steve & Susan]

Originally Posted by sylvan

Do I have to (if so, how do I) get anti freeze into the pump in my 25' Safari? One manual says don't put anti freeze in the fresh water system, just drain it and put anti freeze in the drain traps. Thanks, Jim

Hi Jim -

To get antifreeze into the pipes, you can do one of two things.
First, open your low-point drains and then open all of the faucets in your AS - this will drain lots of the water out of the pipes. Close those low-point drain valves when they stop draining or you'll have pink stuff all over the driveway.
then you can either...

1. Dump a few gallons of RV anti-freeze into the fresh water tank and operate the water pump until that pink stuff flows from each of your faucets (hot and cold). Oh, don't forget to engage the water-heater bypass valves or you'll wind up filling the water heater with 6 gallons of antifreeze before the pink stuff flows from your hot water faucets. Make sure that you don't forget the sprayer for the toilet if you have one - that little valve will break for sure if it freezes (voice of experience).

2. Install a bypass valve by your water pump that allows you to siphon anti-freeze from the bottles right into the water pump, bypassing the fresh water tank. All the other instructions are the same. The kit is about $20 and consists of a brass valve and some flexible tubing. This is what I did and it makes the process very simple.

The instructions for water-heater bypass should be in your owners manual.

Best of luck - post again if you have any questions or difficulties!

[CanoeStream]

I winterized with an air compressor last week. Blew it out real good. Seemed to work just fine. I checked the strainer just toward the tank from the pump -- the clear strainer cap was drained. And then I opened the bypass valve I'd installed between the strainer and pump -- about a quarter cup of water came out. Water in the pump has always worried me with blowing-out techniques -- the pump is not directly inline with the city water intake.. A check valve won't let residual water get pushed back into the fresh tank.

And then I pumped in the antifreeze.

[Joebanjo]

To ease the process of quick winterization, I installed a "T" fitting between the fresh water tank and the pump inlet. Then installed a ball valve between the "T" and the tank. Then I ran a line from the top of the "T", through another ball valve, to a hose connection that protrudes through the counter top in the corner next to the sink,(out of the way). To winterize, I simply close the valve between the tank and the "T", then open the valve between the "T" and the counter top access. Slip a hose on the counter top port , put the other end in a gallon of RV antifreeze, turn on the pump and it draws the "Pink" into the system to be distributed throughout the plumbing (except the water heater, which needs to be isolated). To use the system in fresh water mode...simply reverse the valves again....:-)