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Old 11-19-2008, 04:06 PM   #15
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Zep,

I really enjoyed your thermal analysis last spring. If I didn't thank you then, then I want to thank you now. I was always a little skeptical of the foil bubble wrap idea, but I may have been overthinking it.

Probably don't need to caution you, but if you decide to split the fiberglas batts be sure to wear gloves. It will itch for weeks afterward.
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Old 11-19-2008, 04:22 PM   #16
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Zep, thanks for the explanation. That makes sense to me now. I will just stick with the pink stuff.

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Old 11-23-2008, 04:12 PM   #17
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more insulation questions

Hi. I have been reading all the great info on these threads and learning a lot-THANKS.
I have a 63 overlander and will begin striping and rebuilding after Christmas. My big concern is durability-I don’t want to do this twice.
For the floor I am leaning towards an alunimun pannel product-probably PortaFab Marine Panels | Aluminum Composite Panels for Boat Builders.
Can I seal the inside of the outershell with something like Koolseal to reduce the moisture issue? And then use fiberglass insulation? I was thinking of the foam, used it in my shop and love it, but after reading about the vibration breakdown, I am looking at other alternatives.
On one of the threads I read that the ribs negate a lot of the insulating properties (conduct heat and cold), does the insulation between the ribs make a big difference? What about a thin strip of insulation on the rib itself between it and the interior panel?
Should vents be installed on the inner panels?
What had proven to work over time without a smell?
Thanks again for all the great info.
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Old 11-23-2008, 04:32 PM   #18
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when we had the insulation out and were pulling wire on the overlander it was amazing how much heat was being transferred into the trailer. Actually joked it felt like I was a hamburger under those warming lights. After adding fiberglass I could work comfortably in there in the same weather with just the main door open. Before with fans, all windows/door open I was sweating like crazy. I added a wire through the ceiling for an additional light and had part of the ceiling and its insulation pulled down and was amazed how much heat just from solar came from that panel (it was only 50 degrees outside) As far as ribs conducting heat/cold etc I'm sure they do, when we get snow and have the heat on in the trailer, after some time on the outside you can see the ribs only (not where the fiberglass is) but we've never noticed much difference on the inside.
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:43 PM   #19
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Any thoughts on if you were to have the interior of the exterior skin sprayed with that truck bed liner. I have that stuff in my truck bed and it sticks like crazy and stays flexible. I don't know if it would have any insulation value but it should help keeping the water out.

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Old 11-23-2008, 06:26 PM   #20
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Thats a good question, it sure seals and as you said sticks to everything. Might be heavy in those quantities. I noticed inside almost an undercoating type material had been made at the seams at the factory (or earlier in its life than our work).
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Old 11-23-2008, 08:05 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goransons View Post
...As far as ribs conducting heat/cold etc I'm sure they do, when we get snow and have the heat on in the trailer, after some time on the outside you can see the ribs only (not where the fiberglass is) but we've never noticed much difference on the inside.
In humid climates or very cold weather, the inside skin adjacent to the ribs have been seen to sweat or have a frost line (from breath moisture). So the ribs really do conduct quite a bit. That's one reason that it's not so productive to do "special" insulation, unless you also tape all the ribs and stringers with foam tape--don't if even doing that makes the "special" insultation, eg, bubble, worth it. I think the local improvement in R-value gets lost in the noise due to the ribs, leaks, etc.

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Old 11-23-2008, 08:07 PM   #22
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My 66 has thick black stuff sprayed on the end caps. The sides don't have it. They sell the truck bed coating at the auto parts store as a roll/brush on. I don't know if it is compatible with aluminum.

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Old 11-23-2008, 09:25 PM   #23
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Alumanutz, you're correct, thats how mine is, end caps, and actually a couple spots around the door, but that might have been a repair at some point. I'd call a trusted body shop and ask about it. I think I recall people spraying the front banana wraps with that stuff in some threads I read in the last year. Might search those and find out how it held up. Certainly being outdoors, and pelted with road debris would be harder on it that inside the walls I would think.
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:31 PM   #24
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If you look at the picture of my trailer after a light snow, you can see the snow has melted right at the rib lines.
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