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Old 10-17-2016, 01:03 PM   #15
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1975 Argosy 22
Eugene , Oregon
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This months Trailer Life has an article on how to winterize your RV, ("Take the chill off"). Well worth the read! It gives you step-by-step instructions, including the use of an air compressor and anti-freeze.
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Old 10-17-2016, 07:15 PM   #16
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On my compressor I've got oil and water traps on it. In all the years I've winterized, I only blow out the lines and add pink antifreeze to the drain traps, toilet and holding tanks. Never have disconnected the water pump. Maybe I've been lucky 25 years plus.
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Old 10-17-2016, 07:19 PM   #17
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I use my shop compressor all the time. I have a good filter system that will not let anything get into the hose past the filter in 40+ some years of doing this all is fine. Hook the hose up at 40LBS and do the job.
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Old 10-17-2016, 09:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane View Post
I use my 60 gal oilled compressor, but I use the same filter I use for automotive paint. If it's fine enough to keep oil droplets out of the paint, it's good enough to purge the water lines.
I then follow it with RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) which is a pretty good solvent for any oil that might possibly get past the filter.
The Craftsman compressor is not oil-less. Mark's solution is the best.
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Old 10-17-2016, 10:20 PM   #19
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Unless an oil filled pump is worn and has oil escaping by the rings, there should be no worries. Any blow by oil would show up in the water when you drain your compressors tank.
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:21 PM   #20
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Air compressor only

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuvite-F View Post
For what it's worth, here's what I do. I use my shop air compressor (5 HP 2 stage, not oil-free) and set the output filter/regulator for 20 PSI. I open all the faucets and low point drains, and blow air through the system for an hour or two. Then disconnect the air compressor and leave the faucets and drains open. (I close them when I de-winterize the trailer.) During this process be sure to hold the toilet flush pedal down for a minute or two to blow the water out of the toilet valve.

I don't use any antifreeze in the fresh water system. I do put some in the sink and shower traps and a little in the black and gray tanks to keep the dump valve seals wet.

I have been doing this for 10 years or so and haven't had any freezing problems. As always, your mileage may vary.
I have done the same with my previous motor home with no problem. I plan on doing so this year with my new FC28. But I notice they put a water filter under the sink. Do I have to remove this and replace it with the clear plastic line or can I leave it in place when i blow out the lines?
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:38 PM   #21
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water pump

How do you get to the fresh water pump to clear it out?
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:01 PM   #22
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I have done the same with my previous motor home with no problem. I plan on doing so this year with my new FC28. But I notice they put a water filter under the sink. Do I have to remove this and replace it with the clear plastic line or can I leave it in place when i blow out the lines?
Good point. I forgot to mention the water filter. I remove the cartridge and leave it upside down in the sink to drain the water out of it. After the rest of the lines have been blown out there's not much water in the lines to and from the water filter--I just let it drain out under the sink. Maybe put down a couple of paper towels to catch it.
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:10 PM   #23
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Good point. I forgot to mention the water filter. I remove the cartridge and leave it upside down in the sink to drain the water out of it. After the rest of the lines have been blown out there's not much water in the lines to and from the water filter--I just let it drain out under the sink. Maybe put down a couple of paper towels to catch it.
What about the fresh water pump? I have no idea how to get to it or what to do with it if and when I find it. Do you bother with it?
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:18 AM   #24
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What about the fresh water pump? I have no idea how to get to it or what to do with it if and when I find it. Do you bother with it?
See reply in your other thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...in-158450.html

Cheers,

Peter
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:33 AM   #25
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You need to get the water out of the pump and the filter between the pump and the fresh water tank. Otherwise, it will freeze and cause a replacement charge in the spring. Drain the fresh water tank completely and run the pump. When it is completely dry, use the low point drains. Then put some antifreeze in the fresh water tank to treat the residual water that may be in the tank due to the trailer being out of level. I disconnect the inlet to the water pump and put it in a gallon of antifreeze and let the pump fill the lines (belt and suspenders). Then I use the low point drains again and put antifreeze in the traps and discharge tanks, after I have drained them.
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Old 10-23-2016, 06:42 PM   #26
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Alright...everything blown out. Went fine. Went to pump antifreeze into the lines and the water pump won't come on. The light on the systems panel comes on so I know there's power. I did use the pump to force the last of the water out of the fresh water tank drains and the low systems drains but didn't run it any longer than I have in the past. The pump never smelled overheated or felt warm and it isn't running but not pumping water like the one in my truck camper would do when it needed priming.

Suggestions.
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:23 PM   #27
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You are in cold country, so I would go the "belt and suspenders" method. I'm in Mississippi, and I do as well, because a busted pipe or drain will soak the flooring and insulation, black mold comes next - and you can pretty much throw the dang trailer out.

To answer your first question, I'm guessing that if your Craftsman has a 20+ gallon tank, it has a cast iron cylinder pump with oil. A quick modification will make it water-system safe by adding a couple of filters. Your first inline filter is a "particulate" filter, followed by a "coalescing" filter. (My son-in-law the engineer explained what each does and how it does it, I just followed his advice - since he does this sort of thing for a living... )
Anyway, a couple of filters and a couple of nipples and you are good to go. I've attached picture of my mods. Incidentally, using the big compressor with large tank works better than a smaller, oil-less compressor because you want more volume than pressure (I set my pressure @ 50 - 60 psi, same as normal water pressure) and just open each tap and let it run for a few minutes until all water is blown out. I carry a small, 12V VitalAire oil-less compressor with me when we travel to top off the tires, etc. - but I don't think it would do a good job on blowing out the plumbing.

I also bought on of those Camco bypass valves that I installed before the water pump. After I've blown the pipes as dry as I can get them, I use a siphon hose attached to the bypass to stick into the gallon jugs of anti-freeze and turn on the taps - the anti-freeze then flows through the pump (winterizing it), through the pipes/taps and into the drains. Overkill? You betcha! But I won't have to throw away my Airstream next summer because it was devoured by mold and fungus!

Tim
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:40 PM   #28
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Whitegs - the ionic filter under for your drinking water needs to be replaced each season (as well as the battery that comes with it), so just twist it out before running the anti-freeze through the system and it will automatically bypass if the filter is out. When you replace with new filter in the spring, clean out all of the anti-freeze from the plumbing thoroughly before installing new ion filter. Then, per instructions, run fresh water through the filter for about 20 minutes so that it cleans out the charcoal and lets it do its positive/negative ion thingy...
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