Visit our Popular Forums

MStewart · 10-22-2011, 10:42 AM

Another newbie winterizing question. Have drained tanks and water heater. Pump is disconnected at input and output. Low point valves are open and quit dripping. Problem: Hooked up air compressor to city water inlet and have tried several times at 40 psi. Can see and hear air coming out through the rear low point drain but have nothing coming through faucets, water or air. Should I have closed the low point drains before using the compressor or something else I'm missing?

Please move this to winterizing section if needed. Can't tell on iPad where it's landing.

Thank you all again.

Aquabud · 10-22-2011, 10:45 AM

Close everything up and open one outlet at a time at 65psi. Should clear everything out for you. Don't forget to close up water heater.

Wayne&Sam · 10-22-2011, 10:45 AM

After draining, I close all the drains and faucets. Then I open one faucet and hook up the compressor. Once that's blown dry, I close it and open another. Don't forget the toilet and sink sprayer.

dznf0g · 10-22-2011, 10:46 AM

and the pump outlet line. hook it back up, you're losing all your air through that big opening.

MStewart · 10-22-2011, 10:48 AM

Okay, will try the pump outlet and let you know. Thanks.

dznf0g · 10-22-2011, 10:50 AM

Follow Aquabud's recommendation.....one at a time starting with highest faucets.

ROBERT CROSS · 10-22-2011, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam

After draining, I close all the drains and faucets. Then I open one faucet and hook up the compressor. Once that's blown dry, I close it and open another. Don't forget the toilet and sink sprayer.

Shower head too...lay it in the tub to drain/blow air thru it.
If the kitchen sink faucet has a filter remove it and pour a little AF down the hole, store filter where it won't freeze.

Bob

Inland RV Center, In · 10-22-2011, 11:17 AM

Don't forget to pour some anitfreeze in the "P" traps, as there is no way to drain them.

Andy

MStewart · 10-22-2011, 11:37 AM

It worked! Amazing how much water remained in the lines. Thanks again to all.

Tomorrow is heater bypass and AF through system. What a learning experience, and fun one.

tkowalyk · 10-22-2011, 01:17 PM

I winterized our AS today as well.

After blowing out the lines, I always run antifreeze through the lines (from the pump bypass line -- I do not disconnect the pump), starting with the bathroom sink hot water, then the shower, then the cold water lines in all locations -- one at a time.

I bit of belt and suspenders, but the antifreeze helps prevent corrosion, and lubricates the valves and the toilet seal. I have been doing it this way for over 15 years without any problems.

DaveFL · 10-22-2011, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Don't forget to pour some anitfreeze in the "P" traps, as there is no way to drain them.

Andy

Is it ok to pour some antifreeze in the toilet, worried about staining porcelain or damaging gaskets of toilet valve?

ROBERT CROSS · 10-22-2011, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveFL

Is it ok to pour some antifreeze in the toilet, worried about staining porcelain or damaging gaskets of toilet valve?

YES....ok

and necessary.

Bob

Gene · 10-22-2011, 03:38 PM

Antifreeze will not stain the toilet and will keep valve lubricated.

I remove the shower head hose—both of them—in case any water remains in them and store them inside. It is easy to forget the outdoor shower (and toilet water inlet valve and kitchen sprayer). On our Airstream there is a drain under the 3 water heater bypass valves—open that one to drain water and blow it out too.

I do one at a time as suggested above and leave the water pump connected. I have a bypass kit for the pump and that makes pumping anitfreeze through the system much easier and uses less antifreeze. There is a filter on the pump and this is a good time to clean it. On many Airatreams the water pump is buried underneath a bunch of pipes, wires, etc., and backwards—you can't reach the filter. We had ours reversed and moved forward to access the filter. I then mounted the pump on rubber washers to quiet it—worked a little, but is still noisy. At least I know it is running.

Gene

MStewart · 10-22-2011, 05:43 PM

Thanks again, to so many.

Did clean the pump inlet screen. Appreciative of those kinds of reminders.

This rig is new, only a month old (for us although unused 2011). We have used no water nor the toliet, other than for a minimal function check when picking up. Who knows though what was used on the dealer lot. So am trying to be careful.

One question but not urgent: when taking out the hot water heater drain plug, it was quite difficult to begin to budge. Was using a wrench, maybe too big of one, maybe the wrong kind of tool. Ended up three fairly bad cut/bleeding knuckles, cut from a wing shaped vertical piece of metal, in the way.

And the plug ended up, after getting it off, not being quite the neatly shaped hexagon it was, before starting. Any suggestions on a better tool for removing that plug?

Again, tomorrow will be heater bypass learning and antifreeze day, taking out the TV, checking tires and bringing the battery in to warmer situation. Anything else I'm forgetting?

Can't say thanks enough.

tkowalyk · 10-22-2011, 06:07 PM

We always use a socket to get it off. If you have damaged it, they are inexpensive to replace ($1.50 to $4.00 depending on where you buy it).

Here is a link from Amazon that has a good picture:

Amazon.com: ATWOOD MOBILE PRODUCTS 91857 DRAIN PLUG 1/2"(2) PLASTIC

This link will help you in determining if the part will fit your your water heater, or just bring the plug down to the local RV dealer:

Atwood 91857 Drain Plug Half Inch 2per PK Water Heater Parts Trailer Camper RV

Hope this helps.

MStewart · 10-22-2011, 06:10 PM

Perfect! And I was more worried about it than the still bleeding knuckles.

Thanks much.

tkowalyk · 10-22-2011, 06:36 PM

MStewart,

Good luck with the new rig!

We will still do a couple of fall "dry" camping trips this fall. We will go to a RV Resort in Gettysburg that has keeps its facilities open, and maybe a State Park that is close to home.

We bring along a 5 gallon water container, and will use the galley sink. We will drain the grey water tank and pour some antifreeze down the drain again.

Another pointer -- we have found that a small ceramic heater does a fantastic job of keeping the trailer nice and toasty. We bought this one earlier this year, and used it a couple of weeks ago at the Penwood Fall Colors Rally:

Amazon.com: Lasko 754200 Ceramic Heater with Adjustable Thermostat: Home & Garden

Aquabud · 10-23-2011, 06:09 PM

Best bet is a crescent wrench on the water heater plug. If you have destroyed the nylon head on the plug...pick up a new one. Also, you don't have to tighten the plug quite that much. Don't forget to close the hot and cold inlet/outlet at the water heater and open the bypass BEFORE you add the antifreeze. That stuff will ruin your water heater. Also, if you have blown each and every line out with air AND emptied the water pump COMPLETELY AND drained all your holding tanks...you don't really need to add antifreeze. The best way to empty your pump? Unscrew the inlet line and the outlet line from the pump. Now, blow air into the inlet side slowly until all the water is out of the pump. It will exit at the outlet line from the pump. After you do this...turn on the pump for just long enough to hear that there is no more "gurgling" water sound.

Lastly, add the antifreeze to each drain (shower, sinks, toilet) so it replaces the pure water in each of the pea traps. Make sure there is an inch or so in the toilet...on top of the flush flapper. That will keep it lubricated.

Just for the record...while I do store my unit indoors...unheated...I have never removed the TV or radio and it does just fine. Be sure to take the batteries home and store them in a cool, dry location. Don't store the directly on a cement floor. Just put something under them...rubber matt...couple layers of carpet...etc. Put a trickle charger on them.

Note: I always take a picture of the wiring to the battery before I disconnect everything. It's amazing how much you WON'T remember following a long winter.

Ok...I've talked enough. Good luck. Happy Airstream'n.

dirigible25 · 10-25-2011, 12:13 PM

I use a long handled 7/8" box wrench. It is long enough to clear the metal shield. I have a '97 25' Safari. My water pump is below the counter top in the galley, and right next to the heater. Pulling the drawers out give me room to stick my head in and see what is going on. I did have to back off the mounting screws to the pump to add the fitting to suction side of the pump to be able to draw in the RV anti-freeze. I live in the Pacific Northwest, in Washington state, so not taking chances without the pink stuff.

AirsDream · 10-25-2011, 02:16 PM

On "most" water heater drain plugs I've seen, you can use a socket and extension to remove it ... there's a clear path to do this ... so you don't have to try to use a wrench or channel locks, etc. and risk either knuckles or the plug itself. Get down low and look up at the plug and I'll bet you will see the path to use a socket.