What to use as leveling blocks

[flint]

Hello:

I am new to the RV world and I have a 2007 Safari 27 Ft. SE what do use for leveling at a park or site. Do I need wooden blocks to lower the levelers onto ?

Thanks
Tom

[FreshAir]

What you need to level first are the axles. You can buy the 'lego' type 12" X 12" blocks that work pretty good. I have those but I also carry 6- 2X8X16 or so. If need be you can place blocks under your levelers to STABILIZE your coach. DO NOT attempt to raise the coach with the levelers. Once the axles, or the beam of the coach is level the you can level it front to back with the tongue jack.
Enjoy your Airstream.
Neil

[balrgn]

Originally Posted by flint

Hello:

I am new to the RV world and I have a 2007 Safari 27 Ft. SE what do use for leveling at a park or site. Do I need wooden blocks to lower the levelers onto ?

Thanks
Tom

I use 6" x 6" plywood for the levelers, a good solid 6" x 6" under the frong jack.

Also under the wheels:
We one or the other, depending where we are, I have found the Lego type sink in an Grassy (boondocking) areas. 3' and 4' long 2 x 8 work well but do not store all that well.

And I have found the type of wheel chock that goes between the wheels take more of the rocking back and forth as you walk around inside your rig to be better than the "chocks"

Enjoy your rig!

[moosetags]

We use the Lynx ( the "ORANGE LEGGOS") brand levelling blocks. You can get them in the RV section at Wal-Mart for about 30 bucks for a 10-pack in a nice blue carrying bag. We have used them extensively, and have found that they work great. I recently purchased a second set to build a set of portable ramps to change the oil on the Suburbans.

Brian

[till]

Nintendo Wii's work good too

Can you tell I am sick of the one my kids got???????

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by flint

Hello:

I am new to the RV world and I have a 2007 Safari 27 Ft. SE what do use for leveling at a park or site. Do I need wooden blocks to lower the levelers onto ?

Thanks
Tom

Tom.

The only thing in the trailer that "must" be as level as you can get, "is the freezer compartment" of the reefer.

Obviously that is hard to do when the freezer is in use.

That problem is easily solved by mounting an exterior level on the outside of the trailer. Where you mount it depends on what kind you like.

You then calibrate the exterior level, to the freezer plate.

From there on, since you do the leveling of the trailer from the exterior, is to check the exterior level.

The built in jacks are called "bal," not ball, but bal.

They are "NOT" used to level the trailer, without risk of breaking them.

They are a "stabilizing jack "ONLY."

You basically must level the trailer from side to side with blocks. You then level the trailer from front to back with the jack that's on the "A" frame.

And finally, you stabilize the trailer with the Bal jacks. Unless the trailer is on a concrete pad, place either a jack pad under each jack foot, or a section of a 2" X 6."

Lower a jack until it just touches the board or concrete. Then turn the crank 1 or 2 full turns.

That should fine tune leveling the trailer and stabilize it as well.

You may have to increase the turns on the crank to 3, depending on how stabile you want the rig to be.

Once again, Bal jacks are "NOT" for lifting, but for stabilizing.

We sell many of those jacks to owners that disagreed, and tried to lift the trailer, only to find out that they broke it.

A 2 x 6 is 1 5/8 thick. Thats how much a board will lift a single axle. If you have a tandem axle, you can reduce that lift, if not needed, by placing the 2 x 6, under one tire only.

Or, you can carry some 2 x 6's and 1 x 6' as well.

Andy

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by moosetags

We use the Lynx ( the "ORANGE LEGGOS") brand levelling blocks. You can get them in the RV section at Wal-Mart for about 30 bucks for a 10-pack in a nice blue carrying bag. We have used them extensively, and have found that they work great. I recently purchased a second set to build a set of portable ramps to change the oil on the Suburbans.

Brian

I will second or third? the Lynx Levelers the Lynx chocks work well too. I have been using the same set for over 6 years and they are still going strong. They are "almost" idiot proof. On my popup I had levels with the inch marking on them, it took one block per inch to level it up.

Aaron

[clancy_boy]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

I will second or third? the Lynx Levelers the Lynx chocks work well too. I have been using the same set for over 6 years and they are still going strong. They are "almost" idiot proof. On my popup I had levels with the inch marking on them, it took one block per inch to level it up.

Aaron

I 4th that advice, although I do travel with 4 16" long 2X8's that I use when it's really a bad campsite. I have yet to see the LYNX CHOCKS in person but will look at Camping World next time for some. They would solve an issue I have with the slope on my driveway. My Lynx Levels are 6 years old also - passed down from the PO.

[yukionna]

We use scrap 2 x 6's or 2 x 8's in either pressure treated or trex for leveling the wheels.

[deauxrite]

Linx levelers get my vote as well. If you want to get it perfect, keep a couple of 1/2 inch thick plywood squares (10"X10") in your bag so that you can tweak it. Andy is right..don't try to level with your stabilizers.. all you get is a broken stabilizer.

[jdalrymple]

Welcome to the forums! Lots of good info here. We use regular old 2x6 treated lumber. I have cut an angle on the ends of them, to make it easier to pull the trailer upon them. I have even screwed them together, one on top of the other, to make a double height leveler. I also carry a few 1x6 pieces to make the level just right. All totaled, I carry a pair of the "doubles", a pair of the single heights, and a pair of1x6s. I use the spares left over from the leveling to go under the stabilizer jacks, sometimes.

Enjoy your travels!

[azflycaster]

I have two sets of Lynx's levelers. I can put both wheels 4" off the ground when in uneven places. They can also be used to change a tire on a dual axle trailer. I did that last weekend.

[Janet H]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

I will second or third? the Lynx Levelers the Lynx chocks work well too. I have been using the same set for over 6 years and they are still going strong. They are "almost" idiot proof. On my popup I had levels with the inch marking on them, it took one block per inch to level it up.

Aaron

Mod fight!

I dislike these levelers because they get loaded with dirt that invariabley ends up in your trailer. 2 x 6 wood chunks are easier to clean off, can be burned in an emergency and make acceptable fish cleaning boards.

[azflycaster]

Originally Posted by Janet

Mod fight!

I dislike these levelers because they get loaded with dirt that invariabley ends up in your trailer. 2 x 6 wood chunks are easier to clean off, can be burned in an emergency and make acceptable fish cleaning boards.

The Lynx's leveler store neatly in their case and fit under the bed when we travel. They do not burn. However wooden ramps do not always work, ask Napoleon.

[moosetags]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

I have two sets of Lynx's levelers. I can put both wheels 4" off the ground when in uneven places. They can also be used to change a tire on a dual axle trailer. I did that last weekend.

I've changed a number of flat tires using the Lnx Levelers. I never needed a jack. I just built a Lynx ramp.

Brian

[ROBERT CROSS]

Once your level, lock it down...Save at RV Partscenter - RV Parts and Supply

[Cracker]

I use a set of four 2 x 6 boards that nest together via lag bolt mounted 5/8" diameter pegs (4 per board) and matching 3/4" diameter holes in the mating piece below. The four 2 x 6's vary in length to provide for a ramp-like approach, with the shortest 2 x 6 long enough to accomodate both of the axles. I tapered the top end edge of each 2 x 6 to make for a better ramp. Each 2 x 6 is about 8" longer than the one above it. The longest 2 x 6 (---the bottom or "ground" board) has holes - but no pegs. That takes care of the way-out-of-level sites (---common in our state and national parks,) as well as providing more than adequate lift for changing tires when needed. It helps to have a pickup for a TV. For minor adjustments, on well-graded and level sites, I use a set of one dozen 3/8" thick 10" x 12" poly cutting boards that I bought at Wal*Mart for about $1.59/each. By slightly shifting the AS forward or back - and sometimes from side to side - I can usually get within range of the stacked poly cutting boards. If I'm going to be parked for several days - and I didn't use all of the poly boards - I'll normally place one under each outrigger and the tongue jack. These poly boards are as tough as nails and handle the AS loads withour any problem - even on soft ground. I store them in a canvas bag.

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by Janet

Mod fight!

I dislike these levelers because they get loaded with dirt that invariabley ends up in your trailer. 2 x 6 wood chunks are easier to clean off, can be burned in an emergency and make acceptable fish cleaning boards.

HAH! Ever read the MSDS for treated wood...prior to burning it

I usually camp with hookups so rinsing off the Lynx Levelers is no big deal, besides they come with a cool little bag to store them in (and if SOMEONE remembers to zip it up, the dirt stays inside )

Aaron

[RIstream'n]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

I have two sets of Lynx's levelers. I can put both wheels 4" off the ground when in uneven places. They can also be used to change a tire on a dual axle trailer. I did that last weekend.

I bought one set for our new Safari, do you think I need two sets???

[azflycaster]

Originally Posted by RIstream'n

I bought one set for our new Safari, do you think I need two sets???

Set them up next to the wheels and see how many blocks you need to raise the trailer a few inches. We had one set and needed to go up about 4 inches. We could only raise one wheel and the other was just hanging. We bought another set right after that.