Originally Posted by flint
I am new to the RV world and I have a 2007 Safari 27 Ft. SE what do use for leveling at a park or site. Do I need wooden blocks to lower the levelers onto ?
The only thing in the trailer that "must" be as level as you can get, "is the freezer compartment" of the reefer.
Obviously that is hard to do when the freezer is in use.
That problem is easily solved by mounting an exterior level on the outside of the trailer. Where you mount it depends on what kind you like.
You then calibrate the exterior level, to the freezer plate.
From there on, since you do the leveling of the trailer from the exterior, is to check the exterior level.
The built in jacks are called "bal," not ball, but bal.
They are "NOT" used to level the trailer, without risk of breaking them.
They are a "stabilizing jack "ONLY."
You basically must level the trailer from side to side with blocks. You then level the trailer from front to back with the jack that's on the "A" frame.
And finally, you stabilize the trailer with the Bal jacks. Unless the trailer is on a concrete pad, place either a jack pad under each jack foot, or a section of a 2" X 6."
Lower a jack until it just touches the board or concrete. Then turn the crank 1 or 2 full turns.
That should fine tune leveling the trailer and stabilize it as well.
You may have to increase the turns on the crank to 3, depending on how stabile you want the rig to be.
Once again, Bal jacks are "NOT" for lifting, but for stabilizing.
We sell many of those jacks to owners that disagreed, and tried to lift the trailer, only to find out that they broke it.
A 2 x 6 is 1 5/8 thick. Thats how much a board will lift a single axle. If you have a tandem axle, you can reduce that lift, if not needed, by placing the 2 x 6, under one tire only.
Or, you can carry some 2 x 6's and 1 x 6' as well.