What to use as leveling blocks

[Foiled Again]

They are good, as are the yellow Camping World ones. I also have the Lynx Wheel Chocks. WalMart doesn't stock them, but I spotted them in Safford RV one day and bought them.

If you're ever tempted to buy the yellow plastic wheel chocks at Walmart - DON'T. They will squash flatter than a pancake if you forget to take them up and accidently run over them while leaving your campsight. That won't happen with the Lynx ones.

Paula

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by Foiled Again

They are good, as are the yellow Camping World ones. I also have the Lynx Wheel Chocks. WalMart doesn't stock them, but I spotted them in Safford RV one day and bought them.

If you're ever tempted to buy the yellow plastic wheel chocks at Walmart - DON'T. They will squash flatter than a pancake if you forget to take them up and accidently run over them while leaving your campsight. That won't happen with the Lynx ones.

Paula

Glad to know I am not the only one to have done that...

Aaron

[doorgunner]

Here's my system, place the two curved blocks on the low side, back up until the level is visible- easy to see from the burb,Engage parking brake, slam into park.Then do whatever, if I need more then I get creative.

[altamont]

I have 2 sets of the Lynx blocks plus 2 tire locking chocks. The locking wheel locking chocks also add a touch of security as they need a wrench to loosen. I put all of this in a plastic bin and store in the pickup bed. Nice and small and clean.

[BillTex]

K-I-S-S

You guys are way overcomplicating this. I use 2 6x6's cut to about 15" lg. The incline is infinitely adjustable, up to 6" (if your site is off more than this...you need to move!). Just drive up the incline until you are level, place a chock behind the wheel, all done! Total system; 2 angled wooden blocks, 2 chocks. Total cost=free (scrap lumber), easy to clean, easy to carry, and as noted-can be burned in an emergency?!

[jcanavera]

One of the things I learned at a tire safety class was to make sure that what ever you use to put under the tires, that the tire is completely supported by the block, wood, etc. A tire can be damaged if the tread area is only partially supported, which for all intents means that the weight supported by that tire is concentrated on a much smaller area, hence causing potential damage to the tire belts.

Jack

[doorgunner]

Originally Posted by BillTex

K-I-S-S

You guys are way overcomplicating this. I use 2 6x6's cut to about 15" lg. The incline is infinitely adjustable, up to 6" (if your site is off more than this...you need to move!).

Bill-- move? if more then 6" out of level? Not up to the challenge? Don't have a big a$$ bandsaw to make blocks like mine?
I thought you were the engineering type! The challenging pic I added the tongue was waist high and I pulled up the picinic table to use as a porch!!
At this rally my rig was known as "The Big House at the Top of the Hill".
Geez I really like Forum Rallies!

And what Jack says- support all the tread on the tire- important.

I just don't like putting a wedge between anything anymore- aging gracefully don't ya know

[BillTex]

Originally Posted by jcanavera

One of the things I learned at a tire safety class was to make sure that what ever you use to put under the tires, that the tire is completely supported by the block, wood, etc. A tire can be damaged if the tread area is only partially supported, which for all intents means that the weight supported by that tire is concentrated on a much smaller area, hence causing potential damage to the tire belts.

Jack

Yep...that is why I used 6x's.

DG-long time-how goes it?
The only question I have on your levelers (very creative) is it looks like you only have a couple (2-3") of leverage?
Hard to tell by the pic.

My wedges are short enough so they do not bind in between the tires-15" IIRC. Really, they are short ramps, not "wedges". If you look closely, there is a small black rubber "wedge" (chock) behind the tire to prevent rolling back down the "ramp".
My system works very similiar to yours, place leveler on ground, drive up until level, place rear chock...drink beer.
Please note; since this picture, my "ramps" have been painted....silver of course!

And yes, finding a saw with enough stroke was a challenge! (I had to make 2 passes from opposing sides...)

BTW, the KISS principle is instilled in University...

Oh yeah, credit for my idea goes to alansd, who has a very cool set of old aluminum leveling ramps with chocks. I have NOT been able to track these down anywhere...

Bill

[FreshAir]

Originally Posted by doorgunner

Bill-- move? if more then 6" out of level? Not up to the challenge? Don't have a big a$$ bandsaw to make blocks like mine?
I thought you were the engineering type! The challenging pic I added the tongue was waist high and I pulled up the picinic table to use as a porch!!
At this rally my rig was known as "The Big House at the Top of the Hill".
Geez I really like Forum Rallies!

This picture doesn't emphasize the 'engineering' that was undertaken but I 'lifted' this from fyrzout's pictures from that rally.
Neil

[BillTex]

Yeah, but this is a different phenomena…front/back (accomplished with the tongue jack) vs. side/side (accomplished with blocks, legos, etc) leveling. At least from what I can see in the pic…

[Reganzo]

My 1988 Limited does not have a jack on the tongue, but there are built in jacks that are used to lift the trailer off the ball on my TV. Andy from Inland Rv says that you should never use the bal jacks to level the trailer, but the jacks I have are built into the frame of the trailer. Are these different to what he is referring to?

Regards,

Reganzo

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Reganzo

My 1988 Limited does not have a jack on the tongue, but there are built in jacks that are used to lift the trailer off the ball on my TV. Andy from Inland Rv says that you should never use the bal jacks to level the trailer, but the jacks I have are built into the frame of the trailer. Are these different to what he is referring to?

Regards,

Reganzo

If what you have is one on each side of the trailer, mounted underneath about 3-4 feet back from the front of the trailer itself, those are stabilisers only.
You need a jack that is mounted directly to the tongue, between the ball coupler and LP tanks. On a trailer like yours, it should be powered.

[Foiled Again]

Terry, don't some of the Excella/Classic Limiteds have two power jacks on the frame in front instead of the tongue jack?

Paula

[Reganzo]

Originally Posted by Reganzo

My 1988 Limited does not have a jack on the tongue, but there are built in jacks that are used to lift the trailer off the ball on my TV. Andy from Inland Rv says that you should never use the bal jacks to level the trailer, but the jacks I have are built into the frame of the trailer. Are these different to what he is referring to?

Regards,

Reganzo

I looked at the owners manual that came with my trailer. In it it says that you can use the power jacks to level the trailer, however if the ball in the spirit level is more than the width of the ball off center do not attempt to level using the power jacks as it could buckle the roof or sides and it would not be covered by warrenty. The jacks are mounted directly into the a-frame under the front of the trailer with the control in the storage box directly under the front window. I plan on getting some 2x6's and some leveling blocks to be prepared for everything.

Regards,

Reganzo

[JBinKC]

Just wanted to bump this old but excellent thread. I think the Lynx Stop 'N Chocks are essential: Lynx Levelers. I think the Level Master is essentially worthless. An inexpensive torpedo level or an iPhone leveling utility works better for me. I'm going to calibrate my Level Master this week and give it another try but to date it hasn't given me a good indication of level, especially front-to-back.