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Also, just how hard is it to remove the door if that becomes necessary? Seems I've heard that you first have to take off the inside skin to access the hinges.
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True. And there was very little space between the door frame (on the body) and the nuts, not even enough for a deep socket to get on them. AS uses vulkem to hold them in place when they are tightened so you will also have to dig them out. Pretty much the same inside the door but there is a plate welded to the frame and room to work.
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However, I feel that it may cost me more $ to fix this door than to order another.
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No where near $800 to repair. Someone will correct me if I am wrong, or check your AS dealer, but I don't think yours uses the high $$ lock. Even it it does now is the perfect time to replace it (provided you are not a purist). I used a L300 by Bargman because it is everywhere, cheap. It took 2 extra holes in the frame and I had to make a new strike as the one in the package was too thick. If it is the expensive lock check to see it will be in the door if you decide to go that way. I can see the dealer pulling it out and selling it separate if he can get $400 for it. I also think you are still going to have to do a lot of fitting work with a used door. As pointed out earlier, these are pretty much one off, age, etc. will make it close only.
If you didn't loosen all the skins when you reformed it that could be your problem. You can bend it a little with the rivets, but major bends the frame needs to be free. Don't be afraid to use a piece of wood between the body and frame as a fulcrum. The frame is pretty strong and you need to bend it in specific areas to make it fit. Do it slowly in steps, but it is suprising how much the extrusion will take to get it in shape.
You can break the glass out of the window and try to rescue it or just eliminate it if it is something you can do without, you will have to make that choice.
John