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Old 12-11-2003, 05:51 PM   #21
Rivet Master
LOST , Hawaii
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,193
Good advice just replacing the skins. It really isn't different than replacing a damaged panel on another part of the trailer. The door really needs to stay on the trailer so it can be fitted back in the opening like Brett was talking about.

Inside is just formed aluminum. My problems were the same as here- bad lockset, dings and dents. I replaced all the skins and made new reinforcements, this is what I ended up with. It is not exactly the same but very close. I used spray foam insulation so the holes are to fill behind them. The rivets thru the skins are also thru the reinforcement, it isn't attached to the frame.

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Old 12-12-2003, 04:39 PM   #22
2 Rivet Member
1978 31' Sovereign
Mesa , Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
I like the direction that John's door opens. Mine is hinged toward the back of the trailer. My first thought is that the door came open during transit. However, the fact that the lock has been replaced leads me to belive that it may have been forced entry. The door skins are in reasonable shape. We pulled the inner door skins off reshape the door. and re-riveted the skins. While they were off, we stripped them because someone had painted over the vinylized coating with a can of paint and a brush. The bare aluminum looks pretty nice on the inside of the door. I cannot get an exact fit. on the coach and I am getting air and water leakage. As I previously stated, the prevous owner did a horrible job installing an aftermarket door latch. Currently It is non- functional. as the latch gets hung up inside the door frame (bad fit). The lock that holds the door in place is a standard household deadbolt (brushed silver) That someone installed with a cut down deadbolt. It is installed in the side of the coach. The deadbolt pushes into the door frame (like the original one with a handle inside the coach). The deadbolt actually looks pretty clean.
Also all of the plastic has rotted out of the window, no blind can be hung inside the window. Also the double-paned glass has been compromised (a bit of moisture seeps in) and all of the tinting is flaking off in between the panes. I would really like to fix this door if possible. However, I feel that it may cost me more $ to fix this door than to order another. On the other hand, the other door may have some inherant problems as well. I have heard that the OEM lock sets for this trailer are around $400 to $500. Is that true? Also, does anyone know if the OEM plastic filler that fits around the window in between the skins is available? It may be worth it to order new aluminum for the door and cut a proper hole for the existing aftermarket lock. Would it be possible to install a new AS lock if the aluminim is to be replaced. I may also be able to break out the inner glass pane and get rid of the window tint and settle for single-pained glass. Any thoughts?

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Old 12-13-2003, 07:43 AM   #23
Rivet Master
LOST , Hawaii
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,193
Also, just how hard is it to remove the door if that becomes necessary? Seems I've heard that you first have to take off the inside skin to access the hinges.
True. And there was very little space between the door frame (on the body) and the nuts, not even enough for a deep socket to get on them. AS uses vulkem to hold them in place when they are tightened so you will also have to dig them out. Pretty much the same inside the door but there is a plate welded to the frame and room to work.

However, I feel that it may cost me more $ to fix this door than to order another.
No where near $800 to repair. Someone will correct me if I am wrong, or check your AS dealer, but I don't think yours uses the high $$ lock. Even it it does now is the perfect time to replace it (provided you are not a purist). I used a L300 by Bargman because it is everywhere, cheap. It took 2 extra holes in the frame and I had to make a new strike as the one in the package was too thick. If it is the expensive lock check to see it will be in the door if you decide to go that way. I can see the dealer pulling it out and selling it separate if he can get $400 for it. I also think you are still going to have to do a lot of fitting work with a used door. As pointed out earlier, these are pretty much one off, age, etc. will make it close only.

If you didn't loosen all the skins when you reformed it that could be your problem. You can bend it a little with the rivets, but major bends the frame needs to be free. Don't be afraid to use a piece of wood between the body and frame as a fulcrum. The frame is pretty strong and you need to bend it in specific areas to make it fit. Do it slowly in steps, but it is suprising how much the extrusion will take to get it in shape.

You can break the glass out of the window and try to rescue it or just eliminate it if it is something you can do without, you will have to make that choice.

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