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Old 02-06-2011, 11:57 AM   #1
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Entry Door not tight at the top and bottom

Is there an adjustment to tighten the door for a better seal at the top and bottom. It is flush at the latch. We have seals on order from Overland but the differenence from center and top and bottom seem too much. It looks like the door isn't curved or bowed enough. Not sure if the pic will show it.
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Old 02-06-2011, 12:05 PM   #2
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Sounds like your door is "sprung". This can be caused from either driving down the road and it flying open or a simply a gust of wind coming up while camping and ripping it out of your hand, etc. The only way to "fix it" is to re-bend the door. Unfortunately, alot of the later year Airstreams have cast door supports that are not easily bendable...

Shari
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Old 02-06-2011, 01:40 PM   #3
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Constructor,

We had the same issue with Little Girl. If it's not too far out of whack, you can re-arc it. To see some pics of what we did, check out our thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f185...b-50967-6.html Posts 76 shows the bottom half. And then I repeated the same process for the upper half.

Chris
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Old 02-06-2011, 04:29 PM   #4
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I just read a post that covered re arcing the door. Three guys were involved. Two on the outside of the door holding it tight against the opening. The third guy was on the inside. He had driiled out all of the rivets except those across the top and bottom of the door. While the door was held tight, he drilled new holes and riveted the inner skin back on. They said it worked, the door was re arched. Can't remember where the post was.
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Old 02-26-2011, 07:07 PM   #5
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Unhappy Sprung Door Extra Rivets

The Constructor and I are having another disagreement on the 'project'.

He wants to add extra rivets to the door when use the 2X4 method to put the curve back in the slightly sprung door.

I think I have read you just drill out the ones on the latch side and reset. Plus it will look UGLY!!!!

What do you folks say?
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Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. - Mark Twain
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Old 02-26-2011, 07:26 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by constructor View Post
The Constructor and I are having another disagreement on the 'project'.

He wants to add extra rivets to the door when use the 2X4 method to put the curve back in the slightly sprung door.

I think I have read you just drill out the ones on the latch side and reset. Plus it will look UGLY!!!!

What do you folks say?
Ann.

The inside door metal should be removed.

Then the door frame is reshaped so that it fits correctly. The door gasket should be removed so that there is no pressure on the realigned door.

Then, very carefully, reinstall the interior metal, but DO NOT use any of the original holes. Drill all new holes, scattering them out. When the interior panels have been completely reinstalled, and the door fits correctly, then and only then, fill in all the original holes. After just a few rivets are in place, check the door alignment again and again. DO NOT slam the door during this process.

Why do you use all new holes to reinstall the interior metal??

Because most of the original holes have been stretched. Using only them, will allow the door to return to it's "out of shape" position.

When all the riveting is done, and the door fits correctly, then you can install a new gasket, not before.

Andy
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:01 PM   #7
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drill/ re-rivet

OK, are you suppoed to drill new holes in both the inner door and door frame, or bend (re-arch) the door frame and drill in that using the old holes on the inner door? My door has some "spring" to it, and already has empty rivet holes. I don't want more empty holes. MPJ
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:34 PM   #8
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OK, are you suppoed to drill new holes in both the inner door and door frame, or bend (re-arch) the door frame and drill in that using the old holes on the inner door? My door has some "spring" to it, and already has empty rivet holes. I don't want more empty holes. MPJ
Yes, drill all new holes.

When the job is completed as I outlined above, then fill all the old holes with rivets. Sorry, I left that step out.

Andy
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:08 PM   #9
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holly holes!

Might I ask is replacement inner door paneling available? I have a 73, so or course I'd like to match if possible. I think my door was opened once before, so then there would be 3 sets of holes, lots of rivets! MPJ
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Old 02-28-2011, 03:22 PM   #10
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Might I ask is replacement inner door paneling available? I have a 73, so or course I'd like to match if possible. I think my door was opened once before, so then there would be 3 sets of holes, lots of rivets! MPJ
Unfortunately, the original "vinyl-clad" has not been available for many years.

You could use the same metal as the exsterior, and then paint it.

Andy
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