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constructor · 02-06-2011, 10:57 AM

Is there an adjustment to tighten the door for a better seal at the top and bottom. It is flush at the latch. We have seals on order from Overland but the differenence from center and top and bottom seem too much. It looks like the door isn't curved or bowed enough. Not sure if the pic will show it.

InsideOut · 02-06-2011, 11:05 AM

Sounds like your door is "sprung". This can be caused from either driving down the road and it flying open or a simply a gust of wind coming up while camping and ripping it out of your hand, etc. The only way to "fix it" is to re-bend the door. Unfortunately, alot of the later year Airstreams have cast door supports that are not easily bendable...

Shari

Minno · 02-06-2011, 12:40 PM

Constructor,

We had the same issue with Little Girl. If it's not too far out of whack, you can re-arc it. To see some pics of what we did, check out our thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f185...b-50967-6.html Posts 76 shows the bottom half. And then I repeated the same process for the upper half.

Chris

TG Twinkie · 02-06-2011, 03:29 PM

I just read a post that covered re arcing the door. Three guys were involved. Two on the outside of the door holding it tight against the opening. The third guy was on the inside. He had driiled out all of the rivets except those across the top and bottom of the door. While the door was held tight, he drilled new holes and riveted the inner skin back on. They said it worked, the door was re arched. Can't remember where the post was.

constructor · 02-26-2011, 06:07 PM

The Constructor and I are having another disagreement on the 'project'.

He wants to add extra rivets to the door when use the 2X4 method to put the curve back in the slightly sprung door.

I think I have read you just drill out the ones on the latch side and reset. Plus it will look UGLY!!!!

What do you folks say?

Inland RV Center, In · 02-26-2011, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by constructor

The Constructor and I are having another disagreement on the 'project'.

He wants to add extra rivets to the door when use the 2X4 method to put the curve back in the slightly sprung door.

I think I have read you just drill out the ones on the latch side and reset. Plus it will look UGLY!!!!

What do you folks say?

Ann.

The inside door metal should be removed.

Then the door frame is reshaped so that it fits correctly. The door gasket should be removed so that there is no pressure on the realigned door.

Then, very carefully, reinstall the interior metal, but DO NOT use any of the original holes. Drill all new holes, scattering them out. When the interior panels have been completely reinstalled, and the door fits correctly, then and only then, fill in all the original holes. After just a few rivets are in place, check the door alignment again and again. DO NOT slam the door during this process.

Why do you use all new holes to reinstall the interior metal??

Because most of the original holes have been stretched. Using only them, will allow the door to return to it's "out of shape" position.

When all the riveting is done, and the door fits correctly, then you can install a new gasket, not before.

Andy

moparjohn · 02-26-2011, 07:01 PM

OK, are you suppoed to drill new holes in both the inner door and door frame, or bend (re-arch) the door frame and drill in that using the old holes on the inner door? My door has some "spring" to it, and already has empty rivet holes. I don't want more empty holes. MPJ

Inland RV Center, In · 02-26-2011, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moparjohn

OK, are you suppoed to drill new holes in both the inner door and door frame, or bend (re-arch) the door frame and drill in that using the old holes on the inner door? My door has some "spring" to it, and already has empty rivet holes. I don't want more empty holes. MPJ

Yes, drill all new holes.

When the job is completed as I outlined above, then fill all the old holes with rivets. Sorry, I left that step out.

Andy

moparjohn · 02-28-2011, 01:08 PM

Might I ask is replacement inner door paneling available? I have a 73, so or course I'd like to match if possible. I think my door was opened once before, so then there would be 3 sets of holes, lots of rivets! MPJ

Inland RV Center, In · 02-28-2011, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moparjohn

Might I ask is replacement inner door paneling available? I have a 73, so or course I'd like to match if possible. I think my door was opened once before, so then there would be 3 sets of holes, lots of rivets! MPJ

Unfortunately, the original "vinyl-clad" has not been available for many years.

You could use the same metal as the exsterior, and then paint it.

Andy

The Colonel · 03-22-2024, 08:37 AM

I know this is an old post but I have a sprung door also. It sticks out at the top and bottom and is flush at the lock. The hinge side of door is flush at the top and bottom so I suppose I could just remove fasteners on the top, bottom and latching side of the door and follow this procedure to correct this. I have tried the wood method but door is out more than a 1/4” and it doesn’t seem to help. My AS is a 2017 FC FB.

BigAl · 03-22-2024, 10:24 AM

I had my door fly open years ago. Was out by about 2 inches. The recommendation is to drill out the inner pop rivets on the inner skin, bend the door to the proper curve and then drill new holes and install new pop rivets. This works very well. But you must get the curve perfect. I made a curved piece of wood and clamped the door to it. Made sure it fit and then installed new rivets. However, I did not want to end up with open rivet holes from the originals so I drilled out the existing holes for 3/16 inch rivets instead of the original 1/8 rivets. Can’t tell that I did anything except the rivet heads are slightly larger.
Hope this helps.