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mattmatt · 10-30-2017, 05:59 PM

I'm helping a friend fix the door on his overlander- I don't know anything about airstreams but have tons of sheet metal experience- so I felt pretty confident I could do this- I'm trying to find out how (the correct order & any tips or tricks) to reinstall the skins. I've reformed the frame, I've cut new outer skins, will be cutting out new inner skins, made the stiffeners and the hat channel for the lock mechanism. I have not drilled any new holes other than the 1/4" for hinges and the cutout for the lock/latch assembly. The door is off of the trailer, and the outer skins are mostly in place- I'm hesitant to start shooting rivets until I find some information on the doors- I'm basically guessing at the process

and am worried that it might not work right once it's all back together. if anybody has door re-skinning advice I'd love to hear it- this is becoming quite stressful and I'm basically doing the job for waaaaaaaaaaay too cheap (about $3hr now- I quoted one price and have put many more hours in than I thought it would take)

Aerowood · 10-31-2017, 07:01 AM

Welcome to the Forums. I did this several years ago. it is detailed in my thread below. Basically you want the frame centered in the trailer door cutout and the frame contoured to match the trailer. Start drilling the skin and clecoing in place and checking the door for fit several times. Once you are happy with the fit rivet the skin on wet with sealant. Hang the door again and check the fit again as the contour can still be slightly adjusted. The inner skin is what locks it all together and creates a torque box effect. The inner skin will be shot on with blind rivets, again checking many times for fit as you go. The door can be hung after the outer skin is shot on making the fit check easier. I cut my exterior skin big and trimmed for the reveal after the door was hung.

mattmatt · 10-31-2017, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

Welcome to the Forums. I did this several years ago. it is detailed in my thread below. Basically you want the frame centered in the trailer door cutout and the frame contoured to match the trailer. Start drilling the skin and clecoing in place and checking the door for fit several times. Once you are happy with the fit rivet the skin on wet with sealant. Hang the door again and check the fit again as the contour can still be slightly adjusted. The inner skin is what locks it all together and creates a torque box effect. The inner skin will be shot on with blind rivets, again checking many times for fit as you go. The door can be hung after the outer skin is shot on making the fit check easier. I cut my exterior skin big and trimmed for the reveal after the door was hung.

Awesome! Thank you so much- I noticed that you are aircraft sheet metal- (so you know what 2a753 is) I started out sheet metal on b-52 at barksdale (I currently build helicopters)

Aerowood · 10-31-2017, 11:53 AM

They changed the AFAC’s at some point. I was a 42755

Aerowood · 10-31-2017, 11:54 AM

I started on F-105G’s

mattmatt · 10-31-2017, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

I started on F-105G’s

Cool! now I'm thinking I might need to remake the outer skins- I pretty much used the old skin as a template but some areas around the frame seem just a little shy- I think starting from Scratch on the skin might be the better choice. Also my computer is down at the moment so I'm only using my phone and the app- I can't find the link you mentioned regarding your reskinning job

Aerowood · 11-01-2017, 06:36 AM

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f416...nte-26902.html

mattmatt · 11-01-2017, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f416...nte-26902.html

Not sure if it a mistake but this link takes me to a query about zolatone and interior vinyl repair- (I still greatly appreciate your help)

Iansk · 11-01-2017, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattmatt

Not sure if it a mistake but this link takes me to a query about zolatone and interior vinyl repair- (I still greatly appreciate your help)

it's further on in the thread. this dude is a wizard, well worth trolling through his entire thread.

mattmatt · 11-01-2017, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iansk

it's further on in the thread. this dude is a wizard, well worth trolling through his entire thread.

It must be because I'm accessing it through my phone- only shows a couple posts- last one I can see says "call in the morning" with the 800 number

Aerowood · 11-01-2017, 02:57 PM

The name of the thread is” 71 Globetrotter Full Monte”

mattmatt · 11-01-2017, 06:31 PM

Finally found it! It's the air forum app that wouldn't take me there- 45 pages.. wow- I'll be sure to get into that read asap!

Aerowood · 11-02-2017, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iansk

it's further on in the thread. this dude is a wizard, well worth trolling through his entire thread.

I’m no wizard guys, I put my pants on one leg at a time just like you, I’ve just been doing aircraft sheet metal work for a long, long time. Bucked my first rivet in 1975.

mattmatt · 11-02-2017, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

I’m no wizard guys, I put my pants on one leg at a time just like you, I’ve just been doing aircraft sheet metal work for a long, long time. Bucked my first rivet in 1975.

Wizardry! I put my pants on inside out and both legs at the same time! I was born in 77 so you have just a bit more experience than I have- bucked first rivet in 97

mattmatt · 11-02-2017, 11:13 AM

Ok one more thing- I'm not the owner of this airstream, I'm only doing the door repair- do you cover the main entry door reskinning in the 71 full monte thread? I'm skimming through looking for it.. also I think I'd rather do a butt-joint than a lap-joint for the outer door skins..but not sure if the extra row(s) of rivets for a doubler would be an eyesore- I guess I should talk to the owner to see what he thinks

Aerowood · 11-02-2017, 04:39 PM

The door resin is there somewhere. A lap seam will match the rest of the trailer. If you do decide to go with the lap make sure it matches the lap on the skins forward and aft of the door.

mattmatt · 11-09-2017, 04:06 PM

Quick question- hypothetically speaking, what would you charge (rather, what should I have charged) to remove damage skins, rework the frame into shape, cut new skins (inner and outer) remake the z angles and the hat channel, and rework the latch catch? Labor only.. I'm not very good at estimating how long this would take- thanks aerowood for the insights -your full monte build is legit!

Aerowood · 11-10-2017, 07:57 AM

The door project took me awhile. I️ had a friend weld the frame and I’m not sure how long that took, around 4 I’d guess. I️ spent around 12 hours on the new latch. 1 hour making new center channel. 10 to 12 on the exterior skin and 8 to 10 on the interior skin. Most likely 6 hours on the door gaps and final fit. I️ also spent a couple of hours on the striker.