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Old 07-19-2013, 09:21 PM   #1
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1965 26' Overlander
Cheney , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 8
New Overlander owner with dead Univolt - need help with wiring

I just picked up a 1965 Overlander and thought the Univolt was working but it's not. Trailer is solid with a lot of updating required - will work on that in the off-season.

For now I just want to get power working again so we can have a little fun before summer is over. I bought a Progressive Dynamics PD9260. Probably overkill but for just a few bucks more figured better too have much than not enough. I thought I'd just be able to pull the Univolt out and put in the PD9260 - wire for wire.

There are only 4 wires on the new unit, more on the old that looks original. I guess I didn't do my homework.

Pics attached with the old Univolt wiring and my DC fuse panel.

What else do I need to make this work or suggestions on how I can figure out how to wire the PD9260?

I am not an electrician but have plenty of experience with AC wiring - little with DC.
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:13 PM   #2
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1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
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You did fine with the purchase. a 9260 will work for your application. The old Univolt had a built in fuse panel.
Most if not all terminals are identified on that fuse panel, the pink lettering.
The Univolt provides the 12 volt power to that fuse panel. The house battery (in the trailer) is also connected to the fuse panel along with the "charge line" from the TV.
In most cases the DC wiring from the house battery and the Univolt use BLACK for positive and WHITE for negative. But you can NOT rely on that. In the automotive world, RED is positive and BLACK is negative. A PO could have made changes.
So just keep the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE straight and you will be fine.
Not being familiar with your particular coach. I don't know what the second fuse panel you show is used for. Someone else will have to chime in here.
The negative side of the DC circuit is connected to the frame or skin of the coach. There may be a stand alone fuse in the negative wire coming from the battery. This fuse may be mounted on the skin of the trailer near the battery location.
You will have 2 wires from the new converter, 2 wires from the house battery and one from the TV.
It may be possible to use the original fuse panel. But I would advise upgrading to the new style fuses with a new fuse block. Since the fuse clips and glass fuses are "Old" technology.
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:43 PM   #3
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1965 26' Overlander
Cheney , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
You did fine with the purchase. a 9260 will work for your application. The old Univolt had a built in fuse panel.
Most if not all terminals are identified on that fuse panel, the pink lettering.
The Univolt provides the 12 volt power to that fuse panel. The house battery (in the trailer) is also connected to the fuse panel along with the "charge line" from the TV.
In most cases the DC wiring from the house battery and the Univolt use BLACK for positive and WHITE for negative. But you can NOT rely on that. In the automotive world, RED is positive and BLACK is negative. A PO could have made changes.
So just keep the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE straight and you will be fine.
Not being familiar with your particular coach. I don't know what the second fuse panel you show is used for. Someone else will have to chime in here.
The negative side of the DC circuit is connected to the frame or skin of the coach. There may be a stand alone fuse in the negative wire coming from the battery. This fuse may be mounted on the skin of the trailer near the battery location.
You will have 2 wires from the new converter, 2 wires from the house battery and one from the TV.
It may be possible to use the original fuse panel. But I would advise upgrading to the new style fuses with a new fuse block. Since the fuse clips and glass fuses are "Old" technology.
Thanks for the explanation. I thought that picture of the fuse panel was the DC fuse panel. I will follow the wires to see whats going in/out.

I couple follow-up questions.

1. When you say the charge line, do you mean the trickle charge line on the 7 way plug on the tongue?

2. Where am I likely to find the "house battery"? I'm pretty certain not only is there not a battery inside the trailer nor a spot where it would have been. There is a breaker box inside a cabinet at the rear of the bathroom.



Here is a closer pic of the Univolt. It does look like a fuse panel like you desribe but there are some wires going from the Univolt over to the other fuse panel.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:27 AM   #4
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1972 Argosy 20
Snoqualmie , Washington
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I had a similar issue. Here's a link that may help some. Note that TGTwinkie was very helpful as usual. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...up-100751.html
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:34 AM   #5
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1974 Argosy 26
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As you can see, the fuse panel is clearly labelled.
The + and - wires from the Univolt are attached to the back of the fuse panel. Not sure if it is a lug type connector. If lugs are used and you can figure out how to mount the fuse panel somewhere where it won't short out. You simply connect the + and - from the 9260 to the fuse panel.
I would drill out the pop rivets on the fuse panel and see what is behind it.
The " charge line" is from the TV and yes it will charge the "house battery" when the TV is connected. But it takes a long time to recharge.
The 2 large lugs on the bottom of the fuse panel with the shunt (copper bar) between them should be connected to the negative side of the circuit. Usually in the house battery negative.
Don't know where the house battery is located in your coach. But I would trace the wires. It should be somewhere close to the old converter. Perhaps with access through an outside hatch like on my Argosy.
If you PM me with an email address. I can send you some drawings and pics of how it should look.
A word of caution. Locate the battery compartment and make sure the cables are not touching the skin or frame of the trailer before you power up the 9260. You can tape the battery leads off for now. As long as you have 120 volt AC power, and the 9260 is powered up. You can run all of the 12 volt systems in the coach. You will need a house battery for towing to power the breakaway switch as well as any off grid camping.
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:23 AM   #6
1 Rivet Member
 
1965 26' Overlander
Cheney , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
As you can see, the fuse panel is clearly labelled.
The + and - wires from the Univolt are attached to the back of the fuse panel. Not sure if it is a lug type connector. If lugs are used and you can figure out how to mount the fuse panel somewhere where it won't short out. You simply connect the + and - from the 9260 to the fuse panel.
I would drill out the pop rivets on the fuse panel and see what is behind it.
The " charge line" is from the TV and yes it will charge the "house battery" when the TV is connected. But it takes a long time to recharge.
The 2 large lugs on the bottom of the fuse panel with the shunt (copper bar) between them should be connected to the negative side of the circuit. Usually in the house battery negative.
Don't know where the house battery is located in your coach. But I would trace the wires. It should be somewhere close to the old converter. Perhaps with access through an outside hatch like on my Argosy.
If you PM me with an email address. I can send you some drawings and pics of how it should look.
A word of caution. Locate the battery compartment and make sure the cables are not touching the skin or frame of the trailer before you power up the 9260. You can tape the battery leads off for now. As long as you have 120 volt AC power, and the 9260 is powered up. You can run all of the 12 volt systems in the coach. You will need a house battery for towing to power the breakaway switch as well as any off grid camping.
I've sent you a PM. Here are more pics of my setup. (1) The back of the fuse panel and the (2) the TV battery location.
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Name:	FUSE BACK.JPG
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ID:	191320  

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