Battery Box Extension

[mpsgolf]

From the threads I’ve seen on this forum, it appears quite a few of us have modified our battery boxes to accommodate larger batteries for dry camping or boondocking (or at least are thinking about it). I found some info on the forum about fitting larger batteries, but not much and not enough details to tell me how folks modified the battery box. So I decided to use my engineering background to custom design my own modification. In this thread I’m providing the details of my design including instructions and pictures of the install. I have the drawings for the extension and lid that I provided to a local sheet metal shop to fabricate the parts. I will make them available on the classified portion of this Forum – look for “Battery Box Extension Plans.” If you use my plans, check the overall size of your battery box first to ensure my design fits your box. Also, some Airstreams have a front storage door, so this raised box won’t work (there are threads of a “lowered” box on the Forum.

My AS battery box, like most I presume, is sized for two Group 24 batteries which fit with some room to spare. Group 27s however, are at best a tight fit since the front and aft flange on the battery box is bent inwards which reduces the opening by two inches total over the size of the box’s inside dimension. The Group 27 battery dimensions I found online (most around 12 ¾ long) didn’t appear to me to fit in the current battery box opening (13 1/2 inside but 11 5/8 opening). Plus there isn’t much space above the batteries. My modification does several things that accommodate both larger (like grp 27) and taller (like 6V) batteries. It removes the fwd flange and attaches the hinge differently to increase the opening by 1”; and it adds 2 ½ inches in height. In addition to accommodating taller batteries, the additional height is helpful to house a shunt and additional wiring for a battery monitor like the Trimetric (an important dry camping item that is my next project). I plan to mount the shunt to the face of one of the extension C channels – but that’s another project and thread.

PIC 1 is where I started - the standard factory battery box with Group 24s installed.

PIC 2 is the extension I designed. It is made of 3 C channels (aft, L & R) that are 2 ½ inches tall, and one flat side which is designed to mount to the fwd side of the box where the current box flange is removed. At 2 ½ inches tall, the top edge of the extension does come fairly close to the front surface of the AS – but it does fit and the lid opens with clearance. I designed the extension to be made from bent sheet metal (one or multiple pieces) or a weldment. The shop I used to fab the extension elected for a weldment, which looks very good and blends right in with the existing box. I had it made from stainless steel – I specified anything from 0.050 – 0.060 thick. Before installation, I sanded and degreased the bare metal, then primed the parts with RustOleum spray primer and painted them with RustOleum spray enamel. Use multiple thin coats to avoid pesky runs.
First I attached the extension to the battery box. To install the extension on the battery box I drilled out the rivets attaching the current lid to the box, then drilled out more rivets to separate the lid and hinge. The lid is scrap, the hinge is reused. Then I used a reciprocating saw with a metal blade to cut off the fwd battery box flange as close to the box as possible while being careful not to damage the finish on the box. Then use a file to smooth the rough edge. Cutting on my beautiful AS was the scariest part of the entire process! (PIC 3 – we’re committed now!) I pre-drilled the rivet holes in the flanges of the extension, then clamped the extension to the battery box and match drilled holes in the aft, L & R box flanges (PIC 4). The fwd piece of the extension rivets to the fwd face of the battery box. On this side of the extension I pre-drilled the rivet holes in the extension, then match drilled the holes in the battery box. I used blind rivets and installed them “wet” for corrosion resistance by first placing some enamel paint in the holes.

Next I placed the lid and hinge in place, drilled holes in the front side of the box extension to match the hinge, and riveted the hinge to the extension. I designed a new lid since it needed to be approximately 1 inch longer than the old one due to the flange on the battery box being trimmed off to give me the larger opening size I wanted. With the hinge attached to the extension (PIC 5), I aligned the lid on the box, drilled the rivet holes in the lid to match the hinge and installed the rivets. I installed these rivets wet too, although the hinge itself is not painted. The sheet metal fab shop forgot to put the lip on the aft flange, so I’m going to look for a key locking latch that will work with the thickness of the door and flange.

To finish up, I will install the latch on the new lid, touch up the paint on the extension as needed, and then sit back and admire my newly modified battery box (pic 6 and 7). Tons more room now!


I hope this helps some of you out there who have been considering this type of upgrade to your AS.

Have fun and be SAFE!

[AWCHIEF]

Very pretty. I did basically the same thing but not so professional looking. I am a pretty good wood worker but metal work is a bit of a challenge.

[mpsgolf]

If I had it to do over I don't think I would paint the extension. I don't think the enamel paint is going to be as durable as I hoped. The extension is stainless steel so it will weather well. Also the silver of the stainless would blend well with the aluminum.

[HD Pilot]

Nice work and thanks for the detailed explanation and pics! I just picked up my Airstream a few days ago but love to see what upgrades are being done to improve the Airstreams. Once I get comfortable just getting around with the Airstream I want to do some upgrades myself, love to wrench, tinker, etc.

[slattekd]

Sir
Your ad for purchasing your battery box extension plan has expired. If you plan to renew it, please do so to allow the purchase of your plan. I too would like to complete this modification to allow the use of golf cart batteries.

Thanks!

[Rust]

Why go up and not cut out bottom to lower the batteries?

[68 Overlander]

I like it. Would think Andy is having a fit with possible frame separation but maybe not and it sure looks sexy. I broke our my welder this weekend and starting to play with battery box design ideas again.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by mpsgolf

From the threads I’ve seen on this forum, it appears quite a few of us have modified our battery boxes to accommodate larger batteries for dry camping or boondocking (or at least are thinking about it). I found some info on the forum about fitting larger batteries, but not much and not enough details to tell me how folks modified the battery box. So I decided to use my engineering background to custom design my own modification. In this thread I’m providing the details of my design including instructions and pictures of the install. I have the drawings for the extension and lid that I provided to a local sheet metal shop to fabricate the parts. I will make them available on the classified portion of this Forum – look for “Battery Box Extension Plans.” If you use my plans, check the overall size of your battery box first to ensure my design fits your box. Also, some Airstreams have a front storage door, so this raised box won’t work (there are threads of a “lowered” box on the Forum.

My AS battery box, like most I presume, is sized for two Group 24 batteries which fit with some room to spare. Group 27s however, are at best a tight fit since the front and aft flange on the battery box is bent inwards which reduces the opening by two inches total over the size of the box’s inside dimension. The Group 27 battery dimensions I found online (most around 12 ¾ long) didn’t appear to me to fit in the current battery box opening (13 1/2 inside but 11 5/8 opening). Plus there isn’t much space above the batteries. My modification does several things that accommodate both larger (like grp 27) and taller (like 6V) batteries. It removes the fwd flange and attaches the hinge differently to increase the opening by 1”; and it adds 2 ½ inches in height. In addition to accommodating taller batteries, the additional height is helpful to house a shunt and additional wiring for a battery monitor like the Trimetric (an important dry camping item that is my next project). I plan to mount the shunt to the face of one of the extension C channels – but that’s another project and thread.

PIC 1 is where I started - the standard factory battery box with Group 24s installed.

PIC 2 is the extension I designed. It is made of 3 C channels (aft, L & R) that are 2 ½ inches tall, and one flat side which is designed to mount to the fwd side of the box where the current box flange is removed. At 2 ½ inches tall, the top edge of the extension does come fairly close to the front surface of the AS – but it does fit and the lid opens with clearance. I designed the extension to be made from bent sheet metal (one or multiple pieces) or a weldment. The shop I used to fab the extension elected for a weldment, which looks very good and blends right in with the existing box. I had it made from stainless steel – I specified anything from 0.050 – 0.060 thick. Before installation, I sanded and degreased the bare metal, then primed the parts with RustOleum spray primer and painted them with RustOleum spray enamel. Use multiple thin coats to avoid pesky runs.
First I attached the extension to the battery box. To install the extension on the battery box I drilled out the rivets attaching the current lid to the box, then drilled out more rivets to separate the lid and hinge. The lid is scrap, the hinge is reused. Then I used a reciprocating saw with a metal blade to cut off the fwd battery box flange as close to the box as possible while being careful not to damage the finish on the box. Then use a file to smooth the rough edge. Cutting on my beautiful AS was the scariest part of the entire process! (PIC 3 – we’re committed now!) I pre-drilled the rivet holes in the flanges of the extension, then clamped the extension to the battery box and match drilled holes in the aft, L & R box flanges (PIC 4). The fwd piece of the extension rivets to the fwd face of the battery box. On this side of the extension I pre-drilled the rivet holes in the extension, then match drilled the holes in the battery box. I used blind rivets and installed them “wet” for corrosion resistance by first placing some enamel paint in the holes.

Next I placed the lid and hinge in place, drilled holes in the front side of the box extension to match the hinge, and riveted the hinge to the extension. I designed a new lid since it needed to be approximately 1 inch longer than the old one due to the flange on the battery box being trimmed off to give me the larger opening size I wanted. With the hinge attached to the extension (PIC 5), I aligned the lid on the box, drilled the rivet holes in the lid to match the hinge and installed the rivets. I installed these rivets wet too, although the hinge itself is not painted. The sheet metal fab shop forgot to put the lip on the aft flange, so I’m going to look for a key locking latch that will work with the thickness of the door and flange.

To finish up, I will install the latch on the new lid, touch up the paint on the extension as needed, and then sit back and admire my newly modified battery box (pic 6 and 7). Tons more room now!


I hope this helps some of you out there who have been considering this type of upgrade to your AS.

Have fun and be SAFE!

Nice work!

But to get group 27's to fit easily, you simply rotate then 90º in the battery box. Works like a charm every time.

I only use the risers for taller batteries like Lifeline GPL-4CT golf cart units.

[slattekd]

Originally Posted by lewster

Nice work!

But to get group 27's to fit easily, you simply rotate then 90º in the battery box. Works like a charm every time.

I only use the risers for taller batteries like Lifeline GPL-4CT golf cart units.

I have been wondering if two GPL-27T batteries will insert into an unmodified 2015 battery box without modification. I figure the hold down rod and tray have to go. The Lifeline GPL-27T are 6-5/8" wide. They should fit sideways with about 1/4" to 1/2" to spare once in but..........can the second battery get through the narrowed opening once the first battery is in place? It seems like the box's top lip (bent over about an inch) and the first installed battery will impede its drop into place. With gravity working to help drop it into place, how easy will it be to extract? Your practical experience in this would be appreciated before laying out the $$$ for these expensive batteries.

[lewster]

Remove the threaded rid (it should simply unscrew from it's retaining but welded to the bottom of the box.

Drop in the first battery ( rotated 90 deg. or sideways) and slide it forward under the front lip.

Drop in the second battery and you should have room to replace the threaded rod.

That's all you need!!!!


Lew Farber

[mutcth]

Lew, is the 2015 battery box the same size as a 2007 box? I kind of remember seeing that AS enlarged the box at some point, but I don't remember when that happened.

Tom

[lewster]

Originally Posted by mutcth

Lew, is the 2015 battery box the same size as a 2007 box? I kind of remember seeing that AS enlarged the box at some point, but I don't remember when that happened.

Tom

The box 'footprint' of the newer trailers is the same as the older models, but it is now about 2" taller so they will accommodate a pair of 6VDC golf cart batteries with no modification.

[dustent]

Originally Posted by lewster

The box 'footprint' of the newer trailers is the same as the older models, but it is now about 2" taller so they will accommodate a pair of 6VDC golf cart batteries with no modification.

Lew - are you saying 2 GPL-6CTs will fit in the battery box of '16 25FB without modification? I'm assuming I'd need some 4 gauge to rewire in series?

[lewster]

Originally Posted by dustent

Lew - are you saying 2 GPL-6CTs will fit in the battery box of '16 25FB without modification? I'm assuming I'd need some 4 gauge to rewire in series?

No....not the taller 6CTs, but the GPL-4CT Lifeline golf cart batteries WILL fit.

Also, when adding golf cart batteries that are 6VDC each, remember that the series connector is basically an extension of the internal bus in the batteries that connect the plates and should have the capacity to handle ALL of the available amperage. In the case of the GPL-4CT, that's 220 amps as lifelines can easily be discharged to 1C (one times the capacity).

I use nothing smaller than 2/0 weld for this application, and 4/0 0for the larger 6CTs.

[dustent]

Originally Posted by lewster

No....not the taller 6CTs, but the GPL-4CT Lifeline golf cart batteries WILL fit.

Also, when adding golf cart batteries that are 6VDC each, remember that the series connector is basically an extension of the internal bus in the batteries that connect the plates and should have the capacity to handle ALL of the available amperage. In the case of the GPL-4CT, that's 220 amps as lifelines can easily be discharged to 1C (one times the capacity).

I use nothing smaller than 2/0 weld for this application, and 4/0 0for the larger 6CTs.

Would you recommend going with the GPL-4CT or the GPL-27T, as they both fit the stock '16 battery box? I'm assuming the GPL-4CT as it nets an extra 20AH? I think I just answered my own question.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by dustent

Would you recommend going with the GPL-4CT or the GPL-27T, as they both fit the stock '16 battery box? I'm assuming the GPL-4CT as it nets an extra 20AH? I think I just answered my own question.

My personal preference is the 6VDC battery combination, as the plates are more robust and we have had great service from all we have installed.