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Old 03-20-2009, 10:25 AM   #1
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1967 22' Safari
Austin , Texas
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Lost partial starboard side power

On a road trip and my 67 Safari is paying me back for installing a new furnace. All was working well till arriving here in Moab. I've lost some of the starboard electrical.
What doesn't work (back of trailer to front):
venthood over oven
Exterior outlook
Light over sink
heater (naturally)
reading light in front
(Still on the original univolt

What does work: everything else outlet next to sink, bathroom vanity light, bathroom outlet, roof vent, all over head and all left side electrical

Anybody have a wiring diagram. I doubt this will be a simple repair since accessibility will be an issue. but any thoughts would be appreciated. Still have a few days in the cold.

I've uploaded a crude diagram of the working / failing components

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-20-2009, 10:33 AM   #2
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Have you checked the fuse panel (should be near the univolt)? Failing that, look for a poor wiring connection between the univolt and the vent hood/ext. outlet.
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Old 03-20-2009, 10:44 AM   #3
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Here is the wiring diagram for the trailer. What isn't working is on the same circuit. Probably a breaker. The bigger problem is what tripped the breaker and why didn't it reset?
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Old 03-20-2009, 11:31 AM   #4
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It is all 12 volt correct. I had a 68 which had junction of all those 12 volt items right above the vent hood, the wire nut would back off and one are all items would quick working, I finally used a split nut to tie them all together.
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Old 03-20-2009, 01:30 PM   #5
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Wouldn't a 12v. circuit have a fuse, not a breaker? If a breaker, they can go bad and have to be replaced. You find out by checking for voltage at the breaker when on. If a fuse, I find that sometimes those little 12v. fuses look good when they are not. Change it to check if the old one is ok. It does sound like the connection at the vent hood is a common issue. If you don't want to get a split bolt (nut) connector, just tighten the wire nut and then wrap electrical tape around it and the wires to keep it tight. If nothing else works, get some auto wire and temporarily direct wire the furnace to the univolt at the output side of the fuse to keep you warm. Add a switch in the line to turn it off and on.

I hope the furnace and the trailer get along better soon. Enjoy Moab and go hiking.

Gene
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Old 03-20-2009, 02:36 PM   #6
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Hi Gene, If you look at the second photo in post #2 you will see the 12v circuit of the Safari. It has three breakers that control the 12v systems. My concern is that there is something that is causing the breaker to not reset. Sure it could be a old or worn out breaker or a more severe electrical problem.

If you chose to use a jumper on the furnace please use a in-line fuse to prevent any damage to anything else. I don't advise using a jumper.

Jim has a good point. You have this junction by the vent hood. Good luck
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Old 03-20-2009, 03:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverleeper View Post

If you chose to use a jumper on the furnace please use a in-line fuse to prevent any damage to anything else. I don't advise using a jumper.
My suggestion about direct wiring was to connect at the breaker if the breaker was ok, the problem was not at the junction under the hood and it was somewhere else not accessible while vacationing in Moab. The furnace may be necessary to keep water from freezing.

If the breaker is bad and none can be obtained in Moab, an inline fuse would be a good idea.

Gene
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Old 03-20-2009, 04:41 PM   #8
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My 67 has 3 circuit breakers next to the univolt. They are auto reset, you cannot manually reset them. Mine burnt up inside due I think to old age. I obtained new ones at Auto Zone. They are 12v automotive curcuit breakers, about 3 bucks apiece. When mine failed I would have intermittant electrical problems. Sometimes pounding on the walls would make things work. This caused me all sorts of problems with misdiagnosis,as I searched for loose wires and splices. Adios, John
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:10 PM   #9
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since the furnace was recently replaced, you might want to take a quick look at that wire first if looking for a short.
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:35 PM   #10
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I have had a few problems......

Mostly poor grounds with the 12 volt circuits. The grounds looked good to the naked eye. The 110 system still has a few problems. I suspected mice. ( probably not ) It confused me because if a wire has a break in it, it is very hard to trace where the wire is going, or where it came from. Anyway, I dread trying to snake new wire thru the insulation cavity.
My repair guy suggested taking interior panels down to fix the problem ( EEWWW)
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:44 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post
Mostly poor grounds with the 12 volt circuits. The grounds looked good to the naked eye. The 110 system still has a few problems. I suspected mice. ( probably not ) It confused me because if a wire has a break in it, it is very hard to trace where the wire is going, or where it came from. Anyway, I dread trying to snake new wire thru the insulation cavity.
My repair guy suggested taking interior panels down to fix the problem ( EEWWW)
Ah, you know, MGs are legendary for their electrical problems, but one thing MG owners have learned is this: IF there's the problem, then it's more than likely at the end of a wire, not in the middle.

In other words, check all connections first; don't let some slap-happy "service tech" take down any interior panels before a very thorough check of connections is completed!


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Old 03-20-2009, 11:22 PM   #12
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Found It.. Thanks everyone

FYI, It's has a breaker box in the rear, but that wasn't the issue
There is a fuse box under the battery compartment. Not the issue and I don't have a battery there. But when I pulled the battery box there is a bus bar below it. There was a bad connection (broken wire) found.
I just need to wait for the hardware store to open and will recrimp a new connector.
Guess I toss and turn more in my sleep than I thought

Thanks everyone and my wife's toes thank you too.

Alt
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Old 03-21-2009, 06:37 AM   #13
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While you are in there you may want to take a brass brush and clean all those connectors after disconnecting the battery. It will save you trouble in the future. Do it to ever connector you touch and over time your reliability will improve. Use a little dielectric grease to keep them fresh after the cleaning.
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:05 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thealt View Post
FYI, It's has a breaker box in the rear, but that wasn't the issue
There is a fuse box under the battery compartment. Not the issue and I don't have a battery there. But when I pulled the battery box there is a bus bar below it. There was a bad connection (broken wire) found.
I just need to wait for the hardware store to open and will recrimp a new connector.
Guess I toss and turn more in my sleep than I thought

Thanks everyone and my wife's toes thank you too.

Alt
The pic you took, those three little boxs are the circuit breakers! One of those little suckers may go bad. My 67 had a broken connecter in the same place , I suspect the wire arcing may have burnt the curciut breaker. If it were me I would replace those three circuit breakers while I was repairing, it is cheap and easy enough. Adios, John
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