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Old 05-21-2011, 09:46 AM   #15
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its not the calloused hands that turn red and hurt from contact with the water. It's the naked butt, and other similarly sensitive areas.
Do you think wheelinterested nailed it? http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...tml#post991945

That's the trouble with buying out-of-state. But other dealers will do warranty service for you.
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:15 AM   #16
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There is a practical reason for the high temp, though. For example, here at Yellowstone the cold water out of the pipe is about 40 degrees and mixing that with 145 degree water from my Atwood gives me a decent toasty shower. If I was mixing 110 degree water (what comes out of my tap at home) with the 40 degree water, I would get very few minutes to shower before my 6 gallons of hot water was exhausted.

My Atwood has two contact thermostats -- one, set at 145, is the primary thermostat, the second, set at 170, is the ECO or Emergency Cut Off (if all else fails). Personally, I'd rather be careful than routinely run out of hot water.

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Old 05-21-2011, 11:55 AM   #17
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its all kinda academic at this point. I won't see that trailer again for months.
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Old 06-26-2011, 06:39 PM   #18
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Sorta dissapointed in reading all this. I just received a new Atwood water heater. I had installed a adjustable thermostat on the old one and finally got the water down to a managable temperature. Hope the new one is not as hot as reported. and there is no thermostat to adjust on it. can the temperture be set on the circut board? I would rather not have to deal with 140 degree waterl
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:02 PM   #19
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Sorta dissapointed in reading all this. I just received a new Atwood water heater. I had installed a adjustable thermostat on the old one and finally got the water down to a managable temperature. Hope the new one is not as hot as reported. and there is no thermostat to adjust on it. can the temperture be set on the circut board? I would rather not have to deal with 140 degree waterl
Don't recall the thread...but someone mentioned that they finally got the temp bearable by adjusting the by-pass valves on the heater it-self. Haven't tried it but who knows...

I just mix at he faucets, it does take awhile for the HW to get there...remember you only have 6gal.
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:11 PM   #20
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Mine's hot too. But I like it that way because when mixed with very cold water it extends the shower time. I use less hot in the mix.

If I suspected it was malfunctioning, I'd test the water with a cooking thermometer.
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:04 AM   #21
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Mine's hot too. But I like it that way because when mixed with very cold water it extends the shower time. I use less hot in the mix.
Second on that - extends the range of my hot water heater by mixing in more cold then hot - 6 gallon feels like 15...
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Old 06-27-2011, 05:41 AM   #22
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thats great. I'm glad to hear you like it that way.

I don't.
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Old 06-27-2011, 06:50 AM   #23
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thats great. I'm glad to hear you like it that way.

I don't.

Gringo,

Play with your knobs at the tank.

(will it effect hot & cold?)
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:33 AM   #24
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I beg your pardon?....
last time I was playing with knobs behind the tank I got a lecture like you wouldn't believe..Seriously, I won't have my hands on it again until mid August. I'm on an island between the Bahamas and Hispaniola.
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Old 06-27-2011, 05:20 PM   #25
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Ahh, I think I get it. Use the water heater bypass valve as a mix to send both cold water from the line and hot water from the heater to the faucet. Sorta of a mixing valve. Will try that if I get the new water heater to work.
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Old 06-28-2011, 07:30 AM   #26
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yeah, thats just the kind of fiddling around I had in mind.
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Old 06-28-2011, 08:05 AM   #27
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thats great. I'm glad to hear you like it that way.

I don't.
You certainly almost never will need water that hot if you stay in the far South. In fact, much of the time you won't need a water heater at all. I only leave mine on for perhaps twenty minutes on the average day, to save propane. (It's not much about the cost, but rather that given where I usually camp, where the trailer lives, etc., it's a couple hour process to go get a tank filled ...)

I thought my water was too hot also until I spent some time in cold weather, with freezing temps ... as someone mentioned above, when your incoming water stream is near freezing, you will want all the hot water you can get to mix with the cold in order to get a decent length shower, not to mention dish washing, etc.

But do check out Wheel Interested's note about the Posi-Temp valve. It could have been delivered mal-adjusted. On my trailer, and in usual camping weather, a good, comfortable temp. for showering, etc. is delivered when the valve is set almost exactly at the halfway point between hot and cold. Nearly at the same precise point as my home shower units, which also have Moen vavles. Works for me. YMMV.
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Old 06-28-2011, 08:30 AM   #28
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Well, that might be how it's working but under that scenario, if it's comfy at the half way point then it's potentially scalding when a big walrus of a dude like me bumps the handle all the way over.

I'd be interested in a setting where you could not get uncomfortably hot water out of the spigot no matter what you did with the control.

I don't see the use for scalding water at the faucet. I mean, yeah, 212 degree boiling water does sterilize most bacteria, but that's not what we are talking here, is it.

Does 140 degree water kill any more bacteria than 110 degree water? I suspect not many. Both temperatures are going to thin grease, So what's the point?

Which, come to think of it, is what I am trying to figure out how to do.
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