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Old 07-21-2011, 02:39 PM   #15
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So far, I can't find anybody sells pressure testers to the public. What are they worth, if you know?
Aage everyone is entitled to their methods but when I want to measure gas pressure I just get a few feet of clear tubing and a ruler, and whatever is at hand or cheapest to adapt it to the available fittings.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:41 PM   #16
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Well, after hearing Chris' comment that they wholesale for ~$55, I am re-looking at that solution, believe me!
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:46 PM   #17
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VTS has gauges pretty reasonably: Low Pressure Gas Tester.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:48 PM   #18
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Manometer Sales

Aage,
I just bought a gauge manometer from Amazon, because I was having cooling troubles when my refrigerator was running on gas. My regulator was only putting out something like 6" - 7" of water column.

Amazon.com: General Tools GPK035 Analog Gas Pressure Kit for 0 to 35 Inch Water Column with Tubing Fitting and Case: Home Improvement

Her's the link to the refrigerator troubleshooting...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...ml#post1021436
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:50 PM   #19
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VTS has gauges pretty reasonably: Low Pressure Gas Tester.
One thing I noticed on the VTS manometer is the fact that it doesn't seem to come with the brass hose barb fitting you would need to tap into the test ports on the LP appliances.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:53 PM   #20
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One thing I noticed on the VTS manometer is the fact that it doesn't seem to come with the brass hose barb fitting you would need to tap into the test ports on the LP appliances.
Doesn't look like it. The one from Amazon has free shipping too.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:57 PM   #21
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Although It an ATWOOD 6 gal and maybe different,I replaced the pilot and thermo couple(today) also.I still have the pilot problem( goes out) when the burner shuts down.The burner seems to be correctly adjusted,the flame looks correct and the pilot seems to also burn correctly when lit.IT heats water without a problem. So do you all think I may have a pressure regulator (too low pressure) problem. ?? I may have to make one of them there MANOMETERS.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:58 PM   #22
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One thing I noticed on the VTS manometer is the fact that it doesn't seem to come with the brass hose barb fitting you would need to tap into the test ports on the LP appliances.
You can test the pressure in the system from the stove by removing one burner. The hose from the manometer fits over the stove valve.

Aage asked if he could find a vendor who would sell to the public and how much it costs. That is the question I answered and did not try to get into a debate regarding methods or equipment. So NO commentto you Jammer or I will be violating forum rules.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:04 PM   #23
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Regulator Testing

Since my refrigerator woes this season I have added "check LP regulator pressure" to my annual de-winterization checklist. I thought, heck, it's a fairly new trailer, how could the pressure be low? and besides the flames on all the LP appliances "look" strong. But I guess looks can be deceiving.. It also seems that everybody that eventually checks their pressure reports that it's low. So I would say yes, check the LP regulator pressure whenever you're troubleshooting an LP powered appliance problem. Besides it won't hurt and doesn't take too long to perform.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:10 PM   #24
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You can test the pressure in the system from the stove by removing one burner. The hose from the manometer fits over the stove valve.
Wasagachris,
Right you are. But also remember that the stove top and other LP appliances may not be on the same run of copper tubing (mine "Ts" off at several places). There could be an obstruction in the tubing going to the water heater, but not the stove top. I just figured it would be best to test all the appliances and make sure everything was the same.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:27 PM   #25
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Deitz645 You are correct. A visual inspection will tell you if any lines are crushed but won't tell you if anything is obstructing the line internally.
I just never recommend that a layman start removing fittings or test ports unless he is completely familiar with what he is doing. It is possible to create more problems than already exist.
That being said on a 37 yr old trailer the line could be gummed up and restricting the flow of propane. Although it lights and runs fine. It's possible that the magnet in the gas valve that holds it open is weak and when the thermostat calls for shut down the entire gas valve is closing cutting off the pilot light.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:28 PM   #26
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Wasagachris,
Right you are. But also remember that the stove top and other LP appliances may not be on the same run of copper tubing (mine "Ts" off at several places). There could be an obstruction in the tubing going to the water heater, but not the stove top. I just figured it would be best to test all the appliances and make sure everything was the same.
If that's the case, it's important to test the pressure while gas is flowing at the appliance in question. When the system is static, unless the obstruction in the tubing is complete (in which case the appliance in question wouldn't light at all) the pressure will be equal throughout the system. When there's demand for gas downstream of a significant crimp in the supply line, the crimp will result in lower gauge pressure in that area until you shut off the demand for gas, at which point it will return to the same value you'd measure at the outlet from the regulator.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:33 PM   #27
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Thanks to all of you for your help! I liked the one from Amazon, but I don't know if any of you other Canadians have noticed that you can't order from amazon.com if you live in Canada; their system insists that you order from amazon.ca. At least that's how it works for me.

What's interesting is that rarely do I find that the .ca site has the same products and pricing as the .com one does. This item is in fact a perfect example: it's not listed in amazon.ca

But anyways, I ordered a tube of goop I wanted from VTS, and so I ordered the manometer, too. I want to be able to measure at the water heater and not just at the tanks, so when I get it I'll see what I need to add to make it work.

Thanks again.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:44 PM   #28
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Barbed Hose Fitting

Aage,
Since you got the VTS manometer all you need to get is a Brass 3/8-inch NPT (National Pipe Thread) hose barb fitting and you'll be able to tap into the test ports. You should be able to get the fitting at any of the big box stores, a good local plumbing supply house, or hardware store.


Just remember to make sure the area around the test ports are clean and free of lose debris before removing the test port plug. You don't want foreign matter getting into the works and compounding your problems.
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