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Mikethefixit · 07-21-2011, 01:57 PM

Although It an ATWOOD 6 gal and maybe different,I replaced the pilot and thermo couple(today) also.I still have the pilot problem( goes out) when the burner shuts down.The burner seems to be correctly adjusted,the flame looks correct and the pilot seems to also burn correctly when lit.IT heats water without a problem. So do you all think I may have a pressure regulator (too low pressure) problem. ?? I may have to make one of them there MANOMETERS.
Thanks
ROGER

wasagachris · 07-21-2011, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

One thing I noticed on the VTS manometer is the fact that it doesn't seem to come with the brass hose barb fitting you would need to tap into the test ports on the LP appliances.

You can test the pressure in the system from the stove by removing one burner. The hose from the manometer fits over the stove valve.

Aage asked if he could find a vendor who would sell to the public and how much it costs. That is the question I answered and did not try to get into a debate regarding methods or equipment. So NO commentto you Jammer or I will be violating forum rules.

DEITZ645 · 07-21-2011, 02:04 PM

Since my refrigerator woes this season I have added "check LP regulator pressure" to my annual de-winterization checklist. I thought, heck, it's a fairly new trailer, how could the pressure be low? and besides the flames on all the LP appliances "look" strong. But I guess looks can be deceiving.

. It also seems that everybody that eventually checks their pressure reports that it's low. So I would say yes, check the LP regulator pressure whenever you're troubleshooting an LP powered appliance problem. Besides it won't hurt and doesn't take too long to perform.

DEITZ645 · 07-21-2011, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wasagachris

You can test the pressure in the system from the stove by removing one burner. The hose from the manometer fits over the stove valve.

Wasagachris,
Right you are. But also remember that the stove top and other LP appliances may not be on the same run of copper tubing (mine "Ts" off at several places). There could be an obstruction in the tubing going to the water heater, but not the stove top. I just figured it would be best to test all the appliances and make sure everything was the same.

wasagachris · 07-21-2011, 02:27 PM

Deitz645 You are correct. A visual inspection will tell you if any lines are crushed but won't tell you if anything is obstructing the line internally.
I just never recommend that a layman start removing fittings or test ports unless he is completely familiar with what he is doing. It is possible to create more problems than already exist.
That being said on a 37 yr old trailer the line could be gummed up and restricting the flow of propane. Although it lights and runs fine. It's possible that the magnet in the gas valve that holds it open is weak and when the thermostat calls for shut down the entire gas valve is closing cutting off the pilot light.

**DKB_SATX** · 07-21-2011, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

Wasagachris,
Right you are. But also remember that the stove top and other LP appliances may not be on the same run of copper tubing (mine "Ts" off at several places). There could be an obstruction in the tubing going to the water heater, but not the stove top. I just figured it would be best to test all the appliances and make sure everything was the same.

If that's the case, it's important to test the pressure while gas is flowing at the appliance in question. When the system is static, unless the obstruction in the tubing is complete (in which case the appliance in question wouldn't light at all) the pressure will be equal throughout the system. When there's demand for gas downstream of a significant crimp in the supply line, the crimp will result in lower gauge pressure in that area until you shut off the demand for gas, at which point it will return to the same value you'd measure at the outlet from the regulator.

Aage · 07-21-2011, 02:33 PM

Thanks to all of you for your help! I liked the one from Amazon, but I don't know if any of you other Canadians have noticed that you can't order from amazon.com if you live in Canada; their system insists that you order from amazon.ca. At least that's how it works for me.

What's interesting is that rarely do I find that the .ca site has the same products and pricing as the .com one does. This item is in fact a perfect example: it's not listed in amazon.ca

But anyways, I ordered a tube of goop I wanted from VTS, and so I ordered the manometer, too. I want to be able to measure at the water heater and not just at the tanks, so when I get it I'll see what I need to add to make it work.

Thanks again.

DEITZ645 · 07-21-2011, 02:44 PM

Aage,
Since you got the VTS manometer all you need to get is a Brass 3/8-inch NPT (National Pipe Thread) hose barb fitting and you'll be able to tap into the test ports. You should be able to get the fitting at any of the big box stores, a good local plumbing supply house, or hardware store.

Just remember to make sure the area around the test ports are clean and free of lose debris before removing the test port plug. You don't want foreign matter getting into the works and compounding your problems.

wasagachris · 07-26-2011, 12:14 PM

Aage so how'd you make out? Any results from cleaning, blowing or adjusting?

Aage · 07-26-2011, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wasagachris

Aage so how'd you make out? Any results from cleaning, blowing or adjusting?

I've been meaning to update this, but work on my daughter's basement bath reno has kept me busy since the weekend, but here's what happened.

So... I went down armed with a new regulator, one of those switchover indicators for the regulator, a new set of thermocouple and pilot assembly, and my compressor.

I tried to light the WH before doing anything to it, and was quickly rewarded with the same symptoms: stayed on for two or three minutes, pilot went out.

Determined to clean & blow out any spider detritus with my compressor, I went to get it and then it hit me that I had left its hose at home.

So no blowing out the various parts on the WH, and no topping up the tire pressure on Henri either.

Then, I remembered this question:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Excella CM

Will it stay running if you leave the access door open?

I tried that, but cutting piece from a cheap wire coathanger and setting a little "latch" of sorts on the WH's door, and the dang thing stayed lit all weekend! What does that mean? I'm thinking that there is something blocking airflow, and leaving the door open abot an inch or so lets that problem sort itself out.

I welcome any thoughts from you, Excella CM; you must have had an idea in mind...?

Chris, I think you suggested to replace the rubber hoses when I did the regulator, but I hadn't bought a pair. Since the thermocouple and liot assembly seem to work perfectly with the door hung opend a bit, I'm tempted to take the news ones back and exchange them for the hoses.

I do mean to actually take the compressor's hose with me this time and make sure Iblow anything and everything out of the WH's various orifices.

Any other comments welcome, as usual...

casa3805 · 07-26-2011, 04:04 PM

If you have not done it already take a look back at my post #6. Those little holes could be blocked with a hose clamp or something...Easy to get to and check anyway. But it is definitely sounding like airflow. (and a lack of it)

ventport · 07-26-2011, 04:27 PM

Not to beat a dead horse, but did you ever check the LP pressure to the water heater?

Aage · 07-26-2011, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by casa3805

If you have not done it already take a look back at my post #6. Those little holes could be blocked with a hose clamp or something...Easy to get to and check anyway. But it is definitely sounding like airflow. (and a lack of it)

Not yet, I will be cleaning it out with my compressor next weekend, and since it is working fine with the door open just a bit, I can wait a bit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ventport

Not to beat a dead horse, but did you ever check the LP pressure to the water heater?

As I mentioned on Friday, I ordered a manometer from Vintage Trailer, but of course, it isn't in yet. I did install a new regulator and plan to calibrate the system when I get the instrument.

Aage · 07-29-2011, 07:11 AM

Well, off to the camp again, this time, WITH the compressor hose, AND my brand new manometer. Great service from Vintage Trailer, very fast delivery!

Now all I need is some clear weather so I can work outside a bit. Have a great long weekend, all!

Mikethefixit · 07-29-2011, 07:51 AM

Someone mentioned a hose clamp and I saw that in a pic somewhere and I thought to myself "that clamp does not need to be there,besides its covering the air slots. That could very well be the source of the air intake problem.
AAGE Some of those new regulators are preset to 11 1/2 inches Water Columum,so maybe you should check before changing any settings on the new regulator. I learned that from the guy I purchased my Pilot lite assembly from he gave me several nice tips.

thegirouxs · 08-11-2011, 04:55 PM

I have been reading all these posts and I am having sort of similar problems. I replaced my thermocouple and think I fixed the pilot light going out when water reaches temp. My problem now is I can't get the main flame to burn right, its got a lot of orange and is fairly loud. I keep messing with the airflow thing and I can get it to burn right for short period of time. But it keeps goin back to the bad flame. When I blown a really light without blowing it out, it seems to work well. Long story short. How can I get more airflow or is it possible I have another problem? Any help would be great, thanks!

Aage · 08-11-2011, 10:51 PM

Well, I forgot to update what happened here. I'm still waiting to be sure, but it looks like I licked the problem without putting in another pilot/thermocouple (I replaced the thermocouple a couple of months ago, and was suspecting that maybe it was bad).

What I did was to replace the regulator (easy job), and removed the thermocouple/pilot assembly, then blew out the large tube where the combustion happens. When I did the blowing out, there was a small amount of ash that come out. I blew it both ways, from the burn end and from the exhaust end, same result; a bit of fine ash.

I also blew out the smaller sliding slotted tube, but it looked clear to begin with, and in any event, nothing came out that I could see.

Result: I put it all back together, adjusted the sliding tube for a flame with a slightly yellow tip, and it worked fine. It went for the three days that I was there, and again another three days the following week when my wife was there with friends. She's down there again for close to a week, and if it still works, I am declaring it fixed.

Now, I will remind you all that this is a relatively new water heater: I bought it new in November of 2009. If you are working on an older one, I would recommend replacing the pilot and thermocouple assembly. They are "consumables" IMHO.

Good luck!