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Old 04-06-2010, 04:53 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
1964 22' Safari
Nashville , Tennessee
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 27
64 Overlander Black Tank Crossroads

I have been working on and off for the past few weeks on my new overlander, and decided that the bathroom needed remodeling. Since then, I have removed toilet, sink, tub, lower skin sections as needed, and all the flooring under that area along the rear cross member. There had been a portion of flooring that had been removed, and some rot along the rear edge. I dropped the rear belly pan to expose the very rotted black tank pan, and dropped the black tank as well. Oh yea, the water heater is now out as well so that I could cut a straight line across.

I filled the fiberglass tank with water, upon tilting to the side, I found leaks on the bottom in several spots in the center of the tank. Here are some questions?

1. Has anyone refinished their fiberglass tank by sanding and coating with epoxy, ie West Marine.

2. The PO had installed a thetford valve which the handle pulled up into the trailer space. If I kept this, the floor would have to be kept some open for operation. As I don't know what they are supposed to look like, I would love suggestions on how to re-route this. The PO was also just running the grey water into a tank, but once again, crazy routing.

3. If I purchase a new tank, from where. Inca, All-rite, icon, inland, or have one locally made.

4. Mine was below the floor with dimensions of 23 by 49 by 4.5. Has anyone allowed the tank to come above the floor in retrofits, or drop below the frame rails.

5. Besides losing the heat passageway, which my heater was removed by PO, are there any other negatives to not having a pan around the tank?

6. how are all the valves supposed to exit the trailer, belly pan. Pictures would be fantastic.

For those long time riveters, is it best to post in separate categories with questions, or create one thread about my overlander and post everything from there. Thanks so much for all the help.

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Old 04-06-2010, 05:04 PM   #2
Site Team
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,483
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A lot depends on the type of leaks in the tank. Mine had radial cracks around the outlet. I cut the top off, opened up the cracks, and refinished with several layers of fiberglas cloth. Then I glassed the top back on.

I don't think you will get a good permanent fix by sanding and topcoating from the outside.

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Old 04-06-2010, 06:05 PM   #3
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1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,307
The black tank in my 68 TW was some type of plastic not fiberglass. The flange area was cracked in a number of places. After a lot of reading and considering, I bite the bullet and got a reproduction from Inland RV. Exact fit as the old one and made of heave fiberglass. I also had to build a new galvanized box to house it. A friend in the HVAC business made it in about 30 minutes form galvanized duct material.
The hole in the floor for the handle on the valve is factory.
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Old 04-06-2010, 09:47 PM   #4
2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
1964 22' Safari
Nashville , Tennessee
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 27
Thanks for the info, I might opt for a bit more space, I'll have to look into a few things.
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Old 04-08-2010, 08:41 AM   #5
4 Rivet Member
1964 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
enosburg , Vermont
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 293
Fiberglass is an easy repair. If its just the bottom of the tank clean it off, rough it up gently, brush on a layer of resin, lay on the cloth, cover with another layer of resin, sqegee out any air bubbles, done.. Do you have the remains of 4- 3/4 X 1 1/2 wood slats that were glassed into the bottom of the tank? aparently they held the tank off the pan. Mine were rotted and caused small weep holes. Just ground out the remains and set new pressure theated slats into the new glass went wet. My tank was also wraped in fiberglass insulation. Another usefull fiberglass product is "Tiger hair", a mixture of resin and polyester fibers, layes on like common bondo and very strong. Usefull in tight corners or to build ridges or lips.
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