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07-13-2014, 04:12 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
1979 31' Sovereign
Northeastern
, Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 627
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Store with bleach in tank and lines?
Recommendations seem to be 1/4 cup of bleach per 10 gallons for approximately 12 hours to sanitize the tank and water lines. I've read of one person on another site who leaves the solution in the tank and lines when the trailer is in storage.
In my 1979 I've got the grey polybutylene lines. Any concerns about the bleach solution causing problems with the tank or lines if left for an extended period of time?
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07-13-2014, 04:22 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2004 25' Classic
Prescott
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 623
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AIRSTREAM CLASSIC TRAILER OWNERS MANUAL
F-7
SANITIZING
Potable water systems require periodic maintenance to deliver a consistent flow of fresh water. Depending
on use and the environment the system is subject to, sanitizing is recommended prior to storing and before
using the water system after a period of storage. Systems with new components, or ones that have been
subjected to contamination, should also be disinfected as follows:
1. Use one of the following methods to determine the amount of common household bleach needed to
sanitize the tank.
A) Multiply "gallons of tank capacity" by 0.13; the result is the ounces of bleach needed to
sanitize the tank.
B) Multiply "Liters of tank capacity" by 1.0; the result is the milliliters of bleach needed to
sanitize the tank.
2. Mix into solution the proper amount of bleach within a container of water.
3. Pour the solution (water/bleach) into the tank and fill the tank with potable water.
4. Open all faucets (Hot & Cold) allowing the water to run until the distinct odor of chlorine is detected.
5. The standard solution must have four (4) hours of contact time to disinfect completely. If you double the
solution, this concentration allows for contact time of one (1) hour.
6. When the contact time is completed, drain the tank. Refill with potable water and purge the plumbing of
all sanitizing solution.
NOTE: The sanitizing procedure outlined above is in conformance with the approved procedures of RVIA
ANSI Al19.2 and the U.S. Public Health Service.
__________________
Julia & Bob
W/ Deedee & Boo
AIR #30685
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07-13-2014, 04:46 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,991
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We sanitize every spring when we open the trailer up. We drain the tanks completely when we come home from a trip and leave "dry" till we fill up for the next trip. Even with weeks between trips, we have never had an issue with getting sick from the water in the summer, 20 years and counting. I would hesitate to leave bleach in the lines all the time, due to the taste and smell you would get over time. We drink our water, though. Perhaps if you don't, it wouldn't bother you.
We use the above sanitizing procedure that RLS posted, except after we drain the bleach water out of the lines and rinse the system, we add baking soda solution to the tank and lines and let that sit for at least 3 days, to get rid of the bleach taste in the lines. You need about a cup of baking soda for every 10 gallons of water tank, more is better. Our son uses white vinegar solution in his system instead of the baking soda and says it works too.
Take my advice and NEVER use scented bleach! Can't get rid of the taste. Don't ask....
Kay
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07-13-2014, 05:39 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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Also the bleach is a known damage element to the gray polly pipe and fittings over time. Not so with the newer PEX or old Copper, but definitely with the Gray Polly stuff.
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07-13-2014, 06:06 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1979 31' Sovereign
Northeastern
, Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 627
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Thanks for the replies everyone. Is 4hrs really enough time to sanitize? Since the bleach can damage the polybutylene, would it be better to just leave the bleach solution in the tank and not pump it through the lines?
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07-13-2014, 06:48 PM
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#6
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Figment of My Imagination
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over
, More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYAirstream
Thanks for the replies everyone. Is 4hrs really enough time to sanitize? Since the bleach can damage the polybutylene, would it be better to just leave the bleach solution in the tank and not pump it through the lines?
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Yes, 4 hours is enough. Chlorine is almost instantly fatal to any microorganisms that might be living in your plumbing system.
But, if you don't flush the system afterwards, then you've still got dead microorganisms in your water. Which isn't AS unsanitary as live microorganisms, but still…
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I thought getting old would take longer!
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07-13-2014, 07:13 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
Vintage Kin Owner
Lin
, Ne
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYAirstream
Recommendations seem to be 1/4 cup of bleach per 10 gallons for approximately 12 hours to sanitize the tank and water lines. I've read of one person on another site who leaves the solution in the tank and lines when the trailer is in storage.
In my 1979 I've got the grey polybutylene lines. Any concerns about the bleach solution causing problems with the tank or lines if left for an extended period of time?
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Yes, don't do it.
__________________
The higher your expectations the fewer your options.
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07-14-2014, 03:24 AM
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#8
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Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
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Yes 4 hours is plenty.
I sanitize our lines once a year, then flush thoroughly to get rid of the chlorine.
We usually bring well water from home to drink. But we aren't long term travelers at this point.
I have a house with PB plumbing it has been on a well for over 20 years, switched to city water about 10 years ago that is chlorinated... started replacing PB lines and fittings about 5 years ago. So yes the chlorine will cause them to deteriorate. I have been slowly replacing all of it with PEX.
Aaron
__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
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07-14-2014, 09:09 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1979 31' Sovereign
Northeastern
, Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 627
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4hrs it is then, and then at some point a switch to PEX.
Thanks
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07-16-2014, 07:56 PM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
2001 30' Classic S/O
Crestone
, Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 31
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I have two peacocks under the water tank access able between the tires. The water tank does not drain unless I turn on the water pump. I want to get the chlorinated water out of the tank now. Any idea what gives?
Thanks,
The Vagabond
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07-17-2014, 06:35 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1979 31' Sovereign
Northeastern
, Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 627
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Store with bleach in tank and lines?
How about the city water hose. I suppose an easy solution might be to pour the bleach solution into the hose, and then insert one end into the tank inlet, and the other to the spigot and turn the water on to fill the tank. Any other suggestions?
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07-18-2014, 04:05 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,991
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We run some water through the hoses before filling the tank, and keep the hoses JUST for the tank. Hose for city water is just for that purpose, and again, we just run water through it first. We have a hose that we can attach both ends together so nothing else will get in when it's stored.
Kay
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07-18-2014, 04:20 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2014 25' FB International
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vagabond Bob
I have two peacocks under the water tank access able between the tires. The water tank does not drain unless I turn on the water pump. I want to get the chlorinated water out of the tank now. Any idea what gives?
Thanks,
The Vagabond
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I think those are your low point drains and not the fresh water tank drain valve. They only drain water in your supply lines (one for each cold and hot water). Look around for another valve .......just one by itself. That will drain your tank.
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07-19-2014, 10:50 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1979 31' Sovereign
Northeastern
, Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 627
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How about sanitizing the water hose from the spigot to the trailer. Do people dump a cap filled with bleach into the hose and run water through it?
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07-19-2014, 11:12 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2010 25' FB Flying Cloud
Davenport
, Iowa
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,148
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I have city water that has been treated with chlorine, isn't that good enough to sanitize the lines? I usually fill with our city water before traveling.
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07-19-2014, 11:30 AM
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#16
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Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airtandem
I have city water that has been treated with chlorine, isn't that good enough to sanitize the lines? I usually fill with our city water before traveling.
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No You need a greater concentration of chlorine to kill anything that might be lurking in there.
Aaron
__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
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07-19-2014, 12:47 PM
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#17
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Figment of My Imagination
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over
, More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airtandem
I have city water that has been treated with chlorine, isn't that good enough to sanitize the lines? I usually fill with our city water before traveling.
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City water that is treated with chlorine must have a concentration low enough to still be drinkable, meaning less than 4 parts per million. That's enough to make sure no microorganisms can live in the water between the water treatment plant and your faucet, but only because ALL of the water is treated ALL of the time.
In your Airstream— or any other RV— you're not adding chlorine all the time. The chlorine that's in the city water you used to fill your tank will evaporate in 24 hours or less because you're not constantly adding more to replace what evaporates. And when all the chlorine is gone from the water, harmful microorganisms can grow. So you periodically shock-treat the freshwater system by adding a much larger dose of chlorine, more than is safe to drink, to make sure that whatever might be adhering to the tank walls, pipes, valves, etc. is well and truly dead. Then you flush out the chlorinated water to get rid of the non-drinkable water and the dead microorganisms.
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