Leak in PEX & fittings

AirHeadsRus · 08-26-2009, 09:19 AM

We camping for a week, everything went fine. While I was dumping the tanks getting ready to go home, I noticed a drip by the left back wheel well. Ran around and look in the closet and the carpet was soaked and I could see where water had leaked I assume from the fittings. I cut the water off and waited to get home to investigate. When I pulled back to carpet, the floor was soaked and soft all the way back under the bed on the street side. It must have been leaking the whole week but it probably was not the first time this had happened. I hooked back up to my water and no leak, so I assume the water pressure at the campground was to high. I guess I was mistaken when I thought the city water inlet was also a pressure regulator.
The floor damage was not all from this episode, some was probably from the leaking ShurFlo pump that had leaked way before I became the owner.
Anyway, I need to fix the leaky pipes and have a question as to why the pressure relief valve would be there. Is that needed? The T that has the plug can be done away with, it was for a small storage tank that was needed with the SurFlo, but not with the FloJet that I installed.I'm planning on removing everything that is not necessary. Any suggestions on a better way to plumb and do away with the hose clamps?

crispyboy · 08-26-2009, 09:27 AM

I can see no reason why you would need the pop off valve. These are typically found on a hot water heater only. As for the tee and the previous reservoir tank you may want to keep it. These are supposed to keep the water pump from running on demand each time the faucet is opened.

wmarsha · 08-26-2009, 09:27 AM

photos look like a typical "repair" job on plumbing. But, the pipe does not look like Pex to me. The venting relief valve is a curiosity-I assume the PO had some kind of use for it-perhaps a winterizing scheme? Figger out where the water is supposed to go, and then Simplify. Check out the various plumbing methods available today, and then decide what (how) you're going to use to repair. Try to avoid what your photos show-mixing up various methods...remove all the steel, and replace with one type is my advice. Check out your orig wervice manual (or one similar) and get an idea of how AS did it in the beginning...
ol' bill the newbie.

DFK · 08-26-2009, 10:38 AM

The bluish grey pipe looks like polybutylene to me. Polybutylene has proven to not be the best material for water lines. Google polybutylene piping and you will find numerous discussions about this material and how to identify it. Polybutylene was used in homes for a while with disasterous results over time at least for some homeowners. A whole industry has developed around replacing polybutylene piping in existing homes.

This web site Polybutylene repipe by Delta Mechanical | Polybutylene plumbing services | Defective pipe replacement is one of many that discusses the problems with polybutylene.

**Kevin245** · 08-26-2009, 11:36 AM

If an over pressurization ocurrs the PR Valve will open and potentially flood you out. I would either get rid of it, or if you want to keep it for some reason, at least plumb it out so any effluent dumps on the ground outside instead of on your floor.

The gray pipe definately looks like PolyB piping. This material has some bad history. If I remember correctly, it's not the pipe that is bad, but rather the connection method. I seem to recall some pretty big class action lawsuits resulting from delayed failures in new home construction.

Regards,

Kevin

InsideOut · 08-26-2009, 11:49 AM

I would highly recommend PEX & Sharkbite fittings.

We just did our entire trailer and the only connections that "never leaked a drop - first try" were the Sharkbites. Everything else took some tinkering & a few colorful words before becoming leak-free.

They are not the cheapest way to go - but being "leak-free" is priceless.

Shari

aka "Josephine the plumber"

easyride · 08-26-2009, 12:04 PM

They make crimp transition fittings to go from poly to pex,do not try sharkbites on poly!!
I would get rid of the relief valve,or pipe it to the exterior.It`s the fittings and crimp rings
on poly that love to break.I would get rid of as much as possible.Dave

tallytwo1994 · 08-26-2009, 02:40 PM

My Suggestion:

Get rid of the poly-pipe, as you are able. It's chlorine that breaks it down, weakens both the pipe and fittings, and will eventually flood your trailer. Even the small amounts of chlorine in a community water system have done the trick: not to mention the amount of chlorine that may have been used in your trailer.

Carol

StingrayL82 · 08-26-2009, 02:52 PM

Totally agree with the above....I had a $2100 repair to the line that ran from the main to our house...the polybutylene line had cracked, courtesy of the cholorinated treated water in our development. I had a six-foot deep sink hole, eight feet in diameter. We replaced it with 1" copper line.

AirHeadsRus · 10-20-2009, 03:09 PM

I used Pex and Shark Bite fittings to replace the mess I had. No leaks at all and a easy fix.
Thanks all for the help,
Joe

easyride · 10-20-2009, 05:10 PM

Looks like you used a sharkbite on poly that is a no no. Sharkbites tell you not to use on poly,you need a transition fitting to change over to pex. Dave

AirHeadsRus · 10-20-2009, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by easyride

Looks like you used a sharkbite on poly that is a no no. Sharkbites tell you not to use on poly,you need a transition fitting to change over to pex. Dave

Do you know where I can get the transition fittings? I bought these at home depot and I did not see any there or on Sharkbites web site.
I can't imagine any company suggesting connecting to this poly with all the problems they have had.

easyride · 10-20-2009, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AirHeadsRus

Do you know where I can get the transition fittings? I bought these at home depot and I did not see any there or on Sharkbites web site.
I can't imagine any company suggesting connecting to this poly with all the problems they have had.

Call your local plumber,he can come out and crimp on the transition,then run straight to your sharkbite tee. Dave

AirHeadsRus · 11-23-2009, 06:07 PM

I went ahead and bought a crimper from Lowes. Hopefully I connected it properly. So far after 2 weeks, no leaks. I'll be replacing as much of the poly as I can get to and will remove the shark bites also. Pex really seems easy.