Tough Oxidization issue in protected areas

[Studioman]

In protected areas (Tops of windows under rain guards, etc), Oxidization is a thick black nightmare that just gums up with a buffer.
I'm considering hitting it with a fine brass wire wheel, as that would save me a BUNCH of time in my mind.
Any tricks to knock this down to buff without basically grinding it off? The glass is all in perfect shape, so acids make me nervous in these spots.
Here are a couple pics of what I am up against.
The inside, I am going to have a wire-wheel finish, (Not buffed over), but the "Casing (Lack of a better word)" will be polished.
Any thoughts would be appreciated!

[J. Morgan]

It looks like clear coat to me.

You need to put some Aircraft Stripper down. It wont hurt glass.


It looks a little more like oxidation in the second picture, but I would try stripper on that first also.

1/2 Ton 4WD Truck, 72 Sovereign Hensley Arrow

[Studioman]

My understanding, in 61, clearcoat wasn't an option.
It's not clearcoat. It's just heavy oxidization.

I believe 64-ish was the first year Clearcoat became an option...???

[Colin H]

Originally Posted by Studioman

In protected areas (Tops of windows under rain guards, etc), Oxidization is a thick black nightmare that just gums up with a buffer.
I'm considering hitting it with a fine brass wire wheel, as that would save me a BUNCH of time in my mind.
Any tricks to knock this down to buff without basically grinding it off? The glass is all in perfect shape, so acids make me nervous in these spots.
Here are a couple pics of what I am up against.
The inside, I am going to have a wire-wheel finish, (Not buffed over), but the "Casing (Lack of a better word)" will be polished.
Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Wet sand it with 420, 600 & 800 proper wet sand paper, then polish it.
Colin