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Old 02-25-2013, 07:08 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alumaholic View Post
Husky is good.
I find "Click" type is easier to use than "beam" type (I have both in 3/8 and 1/2)
Always "unload" your torque wrench when you aren't using it. (Adjust it back to zero)
Never use your torque wrench for a breaker bar.
Breaker bar - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

That's exactly why I think a torque stick in the AS would be good:
1 breaker bar and one torque stick and one socket
verses:
1 breaker bar, one torque wrench, one socket and 1 extension. Might save a couple pounds with the torque stick combo.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:13 PM   #22
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Hmmm. Less is more. Can I purchase a 100# torque stick, or must I purchase a set?
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:16 PM   #23
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I have seen them separately....just did a quick search....shop around, but yes...

1/2'' 22mm/7/8'' x 100 lb. Lt. Blue Torque Skt

or here:

http://www.torquestick.com/cart/100-...-BAR-Blue.html
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:54 PM   #24
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Hi, OK, don't get confused; Torque sticks only work with pneumatic impact wrenches/guns.


Note: Robert Cross used a slang term "Wind Wrench".
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:58 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
That's exactly why I think a torque stick in the AS would be good:
1 breaker bar and one torque stick and one socket
verses:
1 breaker bar, one torque wrench, one socket and 1 extension. Might save a couple pounds with the torque stick combo.
POI....you need a wind wench to use a stick.

Bob
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:41 AM   #26
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Bob, not sure what you are saying (or the link), but it would be "easier" with a ratchet, but works equally well with any torqueing device (ratchet, impact, or breaker). With a breaker, you'd just have to remove the socket and start your "swing" over and over. I also disagree with the link poster's opinion of inaccuracy, per GM training and bulletins back in the mid 80s when they were REQUIRED for torqueing lug nuts on, over a torque wrench, due to potential stress warping brake rotors. There was a HUGE push for reduction of rotating and unsprung mass back then and the rotors/hubs were THIN! Torque sticks are generally considered more consistent than the operator of a torque wrench.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:21 AM   #27
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Rich,

I agree they are much more consistent.
But was always instructed that it is the flex action of the stick that caused the impact wrench to ratchet.
Seems to me it would be very difficult to note that flex visually.
I will admit though I have never tried using one without the wind wench.

Quotes from my tool archive...

"Torque sticks are used with an impact wrench and are flexible. This limits the amount of torque that can be applied and prevents overtightening because they will bend once a certain torque has been reached. Their appeal lies in the fact that they are much faster than other means of applying and measuring torque, and they are also easy to use.


Accuracy,
Torque sticks are accurate. A study by General Motors found that torque sticks from one manufacturer were precise within two percent of a specified value, which is more precise than their advertised five percent. This may vary by manufacturer.

"

Will have to give it a try.

Bob
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:27 AM   #28
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Give it a try and let us know. I know they always talk about them with impacts....but that was the reason they were invented....for speed and stall efficiency where time is money. I know you know what I am talking about! If you use them in a shop with a hand ratchet or breaker, you might as well get out the torque wrench....no faster.

If I understand the internals (there's a couple of different designs) they work just like the twist dial torque wrenches....you'll feel a "slip/knock" when you're there. HOWEVER, I THINK that if you ignore the slip/knock you can keep torqueing up the lug nut, just like a torque wrench. An impact can't do that, by it's design.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:47 AM   #29
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"I know you know what I am talking about!"

Ahh yes, the old "flat rate" conundrum.

Tech...
"What!!! only .2hr to change the tire."

Service adviser...
"How would you feel paying the 20bucks?"

Only good answer, menu pricing...been on both sides.

POI...
When I first started we got a straight % of customer and warranty labor rate. (book time)
I always felt it was a pretty fair, rate goes up, we got a raise.
Any GM stores still using that flat rate method?

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Old 02-26-2013, 08:03 AM   #30
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Yeah, (I'm not too close to the franchised shops anymore. I hang out in fleet customer shops a lot more than dealers in the last 20 years.) I think some the union shops will use the formula method. I think it depends on the local area and which method works better financially. But, union agreements can affect that as well.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:47 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
That's exactly why I think a torque stick in the AS would be good:
1 breaker bar and one torque stick and one socket
verses:
1 breaker bar, one torque wrench, one socket and 1 extension. Might save a couple pounds with the torque stick combo.
You could use a torque adapter instead of a torque stick.

Alltrade 940759 Powerbuilt Digital Torque Adaptor for 1/2-Inch Driver - Amazon.com
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:51 AM   #32
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I like the torque adapter device.

Perry
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:47 PM   #33
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Way to Go, Perry

Now I have to buy one (SIGH).
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:21 PM   #34
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How did I ever keep my wheels on all these years with one of these?.........


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Old 03-18-2013, 09:33 PM   #35
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How did I ever keep my wheels on all these years with one of these?.........


Bob
Hi, in the good ole days it was just done by feel. "Feels tight enough for me." Never had a problem.
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Old 03-19-2013, 04:20 AM   #36
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Plus.....I always knew that if I had the strength to twist 'em tight, I could most likely twist 'em loose.

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Old 03-19-2013, 06:05 AM   #37
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Hi, in the good ole days it was just done by feel. "Feels tight enough for me." Never had a problem.
Ah yes, "Professor Gudentite's principle!"

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Old 03-19-2013, 06:08 AM   #38
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I am an engineer and I use the Robert Cross's Cross Method and it has never failed me. About the only thing I use a torque wrench on is on something like a head gasket. I also use one for the spark plugs on my Excursion since Ford decided to put 4 threads on the spark plugs. By the way, 15 ft-lbs on a spark plug is not enough to keep it from coming out. 20 ft-lb plus is more like it. Even with 4 threads the plug will break before the threads strip. In fact the plug will fail at about 100 ft-lbs. The problem is that they get loose then let go.

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Old 03-19-2013, 06:49 AM   #39
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Go to NASA.gov.
Search "thread torque ".
Have fun!
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