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07-16-2017, 05:30 AM
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#21
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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12/3 wire is way too small of a gauge to run 400' !!! 50' maybe . . .
You are going to ruin anything that plugs into that cord, eventually, as you probably did already ruin the converter . . .
Just sayin' . . . do it right or pay the price later . . . or sooner!
Good luck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoFxJohnson
The wire is 12/3 and has worked fine for over 10 years, . . .
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07-16-2017, 10:06 AM
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#22
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diesel maniac
Airstream - Other
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 2,550
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To determine the wire size needed a load study needs to be done first. If the AC is not ever used the wire will not need to be as large. The furnace blower will most likely be the largest load in this case, unless there is a microwave. Easiest way would be to add up the demand of everything likely to be used at once and size accordingly using an online voltage drop calculator. Excessive voltage drop will not hurt the lights but motors will get hot and won't last as long. If trying to run a 16 amp AC unit you will see a 25% drop, not good and I would be surprised if it would even start.
http://www.electrician2.com/calculat...r_initial.html
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07-16-2017, 10:58 AM
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#23
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1 Rivet Member
1974 Argosy 22
Holland
, Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ITSNO60
To determine the wire size needed a load study needs to be done first. If the AC is not ever used the wire will not need to be as large. The furnace blower will most likely be the largest load in this case, unless there is a microwave. Easiest way would be to add up the demand of everything likely to be used at once and size accordingly using an online voltage drop calculator. Excessive voltage drop will not hurt the lights but motors will get hot and won't last as long. If trying to run a 16 amp AC unit you will see a 25% drop, not good and I would be surprised if it would even start.
http://www.electrician2.com/calculat...r_initial.html
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AC, and furnace don't work, typically charging a cell phone, running an hdtv and DVD player, or a coffee maker or toaster. An electric heater in the winter, occasionally a tower fan. Not straining it a whole lot.
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07-16-2017, 11:00 AM
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#24
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1 Rivet Member
1974 Argosy 22
Holland
, Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ITSNO60
To determine the wire size needed a load study needs to be done first. If the AC is not ever used the wire will not need to be as large. The furnace blower will most likely be the largest load in this case, unless there is a microwave. Easiest way would be to add up the demand of everything likely to be used at once and size accordingly using an online voltage drop calculator. Excessive voltage drop will not hurt the lights but motors will get hot and won't last as long. If trying to run a 16 amp AC unit you will see a 25% drop, not good and I would be surprised if it would even start.
http://www.electrician2.com/calculat...r_initial.html
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Maybe that's why the AC doesn't work, bc it did in my driveway, so did the furnace. But the furnace stopped working while hooked almost directly to my house, tried the thermal fuse, no such luck. The electric heater is adequate, seeing as we have no running water.
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07-16-2017, 11:03 AM
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#25
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1 Rivet Member
1974 Argosy 22
Holland
, Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 15
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07-16-2017, 11:04 AM
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#26
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1 Rivet Member
1974 Argosy 22
Holland
, Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 15
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Bought 3 of these, "temporary" lights, until I get a univolt or converter
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