Outlets work but nothing else never have had a battery hooked up

[NoFxJohnson]

Hey, found this forum after googling the above question. I did browse the similar topics, but since I have never had a battery hooked up I wasn't sure if the advice there fit my problem. We have a 22' Argosy, that is just blocked up in the woods, there's power at the front of the property, so we run 400' of extension cords to the trailer. Usually there are no issues, but all of a sudden the lights, refrigerator, exhaust fan doesn't work, but all of the outlets do. I have checked all of the bus fuses, and replaced the breakers, but still nothing. Last time my wife was up, one of the extension cords burned out, I don't know if that had an effect somehow? I've seen that the box with the fuses could be bad, from the other forum questions. But, since I don't use a battery, does this apply to my situation? And, is installing a converter a viable option? I understand I guess that the lights are 12v, so If I understand correctly, that box is converting shore power into 12v power to power the lights? Very confused, thanks in advance for any help. Maybe a suggestion as to where to pick up a converter, and what type for my trailer? Again, Thanks!

[NoFxJohnson]

It's a '74, btw, sorry forgot to post that

[190-b-651]

Your going to need to know what converter you have now I just had the same problem with my 93 it was the 12volt fuse distribution board was bad.
Yours being a 74 it probably a different converter but try best converter talk to Rick he knows his business.
And you probably should inspect everything being its left in the woods unattended it could be rodents they love to chew on wiring.

[Mollysdad]

The outlets work because they're on 120v. The fridge(control), and lights and fans are all 12 v. DC.

[1973Argosy]

Bet your converter is dead. If you connect a battery I'd place my bet that your down systems work. If they work with a battery hooked up your converter is probably bad. With shore power hooked up you should hear a buzzing/humming sound from your bathroom closet. If you hear the buzzing sound the fat glass fuse in your fuse panel could be bad or not making connection.if you hear the buzzing disconnect the shore power and make a jumper between both sides of the fuse holder for the largest glass fuse in your panel.

[cwf]

Converter.
Run of 400'..??? wow

[guskmg]

It may just be the converter's fuse(s). Check for power at the AC socket the converter plugs into. If it is good and the fuse(s) are Ok then the converter is bad. Lightning may have killed it. You need a surge protector in the line between the pole and the trailer's AC input.
guskmg

[USAtraveler]

Your converter is fried. It's 43 years old. If you've been using lights, fans, and frig (control)...all 12V loads...without a battery, it means your converter has been working full-time to run them all. It was never designed to do this. At 43 years old it finally just couldn't take the strain anymore. Get a new converter AND a battery! The outlets still work, BTW, cuz the 110V current is wired direct from the circuit breaker...it never goes thru the converter...and thus is not dependent on the converter.

[OTRA15]

Welcome to the forum!

Also -- make sure that you are getting proper voltage and amperage over your 400' run from the street. What AWG size is that "extension cord" ? Guessing it should be #6 or so, or even bigger [lower AWG number like #4 service cable].

If your wire gauge is too small, that may have contributed to the converter's (not early!) demise. What amperage outlet/circuit are you taking your power from? Probably a 15 amp?

Good luck!

Peter

[BIGED52]

Originally Posted by NoFxJohnson

Hey, found this forum after googling the above question. I did browse the similar topics, but since I have never had a battery hooked up I wasn't sure if the advice there fit my problem. We have a 22' Argosy, that is just blocked up in the woods, there's power at the front of the property, so we run 400' of extension cords to the trailer. Usually there are no issues, but all of a sudden the lights, refrigerator, exhaust fan doesn't work, but all of the outlets do. I have checked all of the bus fuses, and replaced the breakers, but still nothing. Last time my wife was up, one of the extension cords burned out, I don't know if that had an effect somehow? I've seen that the box with the fuses could be bad, from the other forum questions. But, since I don't use a battery, does this apply to my situation? And, is installing a converter a viable option? I understand I guess that the lights are 12v, so If I understand correctly, that box is converting shore power into 12v power to power the lights? Very confused, thanks in advance for any help. Maybe a suggestion as to where to pick up a converter, and what type for my trailer? Again, Thanks!

NoFxJohnson, Since you already have power to the property why don't you trench a line and have a shore power post installed near the trailer? Power company can do this for you for a minimal charge. Underground cable is way more reliable than drop cords. You would find the power loss much less of a problem than that you are experiencing on 400 feet of drop cords! Also water intrusion on the cords may be what caused the failure of the shorted out one! You will not have a lot of cost to have this done and it is much safer for your trailers system. The power converter is the culprit of the no 12 volt issue. You do not need to hook a battery up if the converter is working properly and the fuses are good as you already know. The hum others have mentioned is likely because you have the original UniVolt converter in your trailer and it has likely expended its useful life! it is also a problem if you do install a battery at some point as the old converters were infamous for cooking the battery on trailers back in the day. A new converter will make your electrical system much more reliable once you have the corrected supply line run to a shore power post! You can also lock out the power once set up correctly so that makes it more secure too! Hope this helps, Ed

[NoFxJohnson]

The wire is 12/3 and has worked fine for over 10 years, plan on trenching and putting in a post, but wish in one hand... I do have the omnivolt, which is an awesome name I never knew actually existed to name something. So, can I change the omnivolt for a converter, even tho there's no battery?

[1973Argosy]

It's univolt not omnivolt. While a working univolt or a new converter will run your trailer with no battery, both are designed to provide your 12volt needs through the battery. Running without a battery will risk damage to a converter. As for your 400 foot of standard extension cord, all will be good until it is not. You are risking a fire and possible injury to your loved ones. The cord "burning out" on your wife is a ominous clue of what could happen.

[NoFxJohnson]

Originally Posted by 1973Argosy

It's univolt not omnivolt. While a working univolt or a new converter will run your trailer with no battery, both are designed to provide your 12volt needs through the battery. Running without a battery will risk damage to a converter. As for your 400 foot of standard extension cord, all will be good until it is not. You are risking a fire and possible injury to your loved ones. The cord "burning out" on your wife is a ominous clue of what could happen.

I appreciate the concern, it's not like a 24/7 thing tho. We use the camper in the winter too, and batteries don't fare well in Michigan winter's, and kind of a pain to bring one up Everytime. So, is there a particular converter to replace the 1974 "univolt"? Which is still a really cool name for something.

[cwf]

Converters generally like a battery,,, they can turn off and on... rather than having to run continuously. But so far you have beat the odds.... I wish you all the best...

[NoFxJohnson]

Originally Posted by cwf

Converters generally like a battery,,, they can turn off and on... rather than having to run continuously. But so far you have beat the odds.... I wish you all the best...

Thanks, lol

[Al and Missy]

Older converters had poor output filters. The new ones have much better output regulation. You can confirm this with Randy at Best Converter, but I believe the newer ones like the Progressive Dynamics PD9200 series will work just fine without a battery connected.

Al

[NoFxJohnson]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

Older converters had poor output filters. The new ones have much better output regulation. You can confirm this with Randy at Best Converter, but I believe the newer ones like the Progressive Dynamics PD9200 series will work just fine without a battery connected.

Al

Cool, this is someone on this forum, I assume?

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Even if you don't have the power company do it, go down to Home Depot and get some PVC underground conduit. The stuff is dirt cheap. Get a spool of wire that also is underground compatible. 400 feet of extension cords is a disaster ready to happen. It may or may not kill you, it could easily kill somebody. Rent a trencher and run it in. It's an afternoon if you are lucky. It's a weekend if you aren't lucky.

Once that is done, replace the converter / charger. If money is tight, the trenched cable (done DIY) is cheaper than the couple hundred dollars the new converter will cost you.

Bob

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by NoFxJohnson

Cool, this is someone on this forum, I assume?

Randy is occasionally on the forum but he is at a company called Best Converter. Google it.

Al

[NoFxJohnson]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

Randy is occasionally on the forum but he is at a company called Best Converter. Google it.

Al

[emoji106]