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Old 04-18-2003, 11:23 AM   #15
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Taking Care

Hi Again - I, for one, would not want to supply false info and don't want to minimize danger that field mice/deer mice might inflict to the unsuspecting or uninformed. Guess I should have said "the dropping are less likely to be infected from virus after a few days" Here is a quote directly from the CDC:

Physical Properties of Hantaviruses
Hantaviruses have lipid envelopes that are susceptible to most disinfectants (e.g., dilute chlorine solutions, detergents, or most general-purpose household disinfectants) (37). Depending on environmental conditions,[these viruses probably survive 1 week in indoor environments and much shorter periods (perhaps hours) when exposed to sunlight outdoors.

Doesn't mean I would not still take all appropriate precautions, just that they indicate the most risk is while mice are still present to produce fresh droppings. Take care, Leigh
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Old 04-18-2003, 01:16 PM   #16
 
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the dropping are less likely to be infected from virus after a few days
Hantaviruses have lipid envelopes that are susceptible to most disinfectants
I am with Leigh and the CDC all the way on that one.

I am sure I am going to freak-out everybody with the following:

I am a "rat pack" when it comes to groceries. We have a 30 X 75 metal industrial building. In a corner of it, I have my one little grocery store. We have bought stores gondolas and they are stocked with years of supplies (I like to buy stuff on sale).

and we have mice. Plenty of them.

And we have mice droppings on top of cans. And: yes, I had heard that, even in the rare cases were antiviruses are present, if you are careful, you will survive.

We are 2 fine examples. I treat every can we use as if it had mouse turds on it. When possible, I open from other (down) end, and wash the can with hot water and soap.

I have been doing that for years. And hopefully will be alive longer to talk about it.

Relax, just don't put a fresh mouse turd in your mouth, and you'll be OK.

(keeping mouse away see: Of Mice & Mold, from Florida
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Old 04-21-2003, 12:22 PM   #17
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Mice Have Visited - Followup (Cleanup)

Bit the bullet this weekend and cleaned up the mice mess. I used sticky lint strips (peeled off the roll) to "pick up" the droppings and this worked pretty well (although the strips would stick to the disposable latex gloves that I was wearing and I would have to constantly battle with this). Wiped vritually ALL l surfaces down with diluted bleach (twice on the surfaces where there were a lot of droppings). Opened all of the windows to sunlight - light will help to kill the virus. Took the matresses out and sun/air dryed them for a few hours. Sprayed the couch and fabrics with Lysol/disinfectant. Sprayed the carpet in the bedroom/bathroom with disinfectant. Used a push-roller "vacuume" to get as much up off of the carpet as I could. Have not done a thorough vacuuming yet with an electric vac - will do this later. Wiped down vinyl protecting carpeting (previous owner) with bleach dilute. Opened windows/vents to get some fresh air in (the bleach will kill the virus on contact). Trailer looks good inside and is "sterilized". Will get some mouse traps and put them throughout the trailer to prevent any more unwanted visits. Montanaandy
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Old 04-21-2003, 12:28 PM   #18
 
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One advice when you use mouse traps: tie them down.

We picked-up a mouse once in CT, through NY and PA, it was still running somewhere under the couch......with the trap. All night.

We lost a second trap this way. A few years later, we did work under the couch: we never found the traps or the bones.
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Old 04-21-2003, 01:58 PM   #19
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Femuse, I have run into a similar incident with sticky boards in our greenhouse. A mouse was stuck in the middle of a stickyboard at dinnertime one day as I was watering. I figured it would be dead by morning. When I went in to water next morning, the entire sticky board was gone. Mouse was stuck in the middle of the board, so I know he didn't run away with it. I have not seen any cats in the neighborhood with stickyboards stuck to their faces!
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Old 08-13-2004, 01:07 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by FEMUSE

and we have mice. Plenty of them.

And we have mice droppings on top of cans. And: yes, I had heard that, even in the rare cases were antiviruses are present, if you are careful, you will survive.

We are 2 fine examples. I treat every can we use as if it had mouse turds on it. When possible, I open from other (down) end, and wash the can with hot water and soap.

I have been doing that for years. And hopefully will be alive longer to talk about it.

Relax, just don't put a fresh mouse turd in your mouth, and you'll be OK.
What ever became of FEMUSE? Did he forget to wash one of those old cans?

and that last pearl of wisdom is one for the ages, ought to be in every Airstream manual.
I am so glad I found this thread, it's a classic.
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Old 08-13-2004, 01:30 PM   #21
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Well I like the mothball suggestion. I have heard that this works very well, but don't have any first hand knowledge. If I find that mice are getting in I guess I will give it a try. I never heard of bloodmeal.
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Old 08-13-2004, 10:14 PM   #22
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The other day I was in the grocery store looking in the bagel bins wondering how many mice... I was looking at the black sesame seed bagels. Uff da! I decided not to buy one.

I hope FEMUSE survived his ordeal. Anyone hear?

Also, Rodeo, FYI it's "hantivirus" not "antivirus"...
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Old 08-14-2004, 08:56 AM   #23
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I believe Femuse is hiding out over at rv.net and the airstream.com message boards.
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Old 08-14-2004, 07:30 PM   #24
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Someone told us to try putting a bar of soap out in the A/S. Last fall we put bars of Dove down, 1 fore & 1 aft, and, thankfully, had no problems over the winter. It just occured to me we should have some soap in there right now and there isn't.

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Old 08-15-2004, 07:58 AM   #25
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Dear Sue (Eikel1we),
Followed your suggestion to use the Dove bars, for and aft, and it worked, even though a little 'sticky'. I chose the Dove frozen ice cream bars, double chocolate with the crunchy Heath bar coating, instead of the moisturizing soap bars you suggested.
The little varmints all died from obesity, succumbing to toxic serum levels of LDL. You know,the 'bad' cholesterol.

Now.
Can anyone help me with an ant problem....?
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Old 08-15-2004, 08:32 AM   #26
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In the Whole add on Ozone they never once mentioned all the Damage Ozone does to your equipment and tha AS itself. Ozone is a major oxidizer( they do tell you that) Ive Had it eat all the gaskets out of expensive camera equipment, Eat my apolstery up so you could polk your finger through it. One of the main ways that the sun destroys so many types of plastic is through the production of Ozone. It was heralded as a mirical cure all back in the 20s and 30s. I guess every generation can be taught by the same trial and error.
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Old 08-15-2004, 08:45 AM   #27
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I like the reply that suggested mothballs, but where do I find that many male moths?
Would mice prefer the whole moth?
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Old 08-15-2004, 08:51 AM   #28
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Now.
Can anyone help me with an ant problem....?
Dr. C
I have found the best way to get rid of ants is to lay down a trail of powdered sugar, and at the end of the trail I put a large pile of baking soda.

Ants (insect family Formicidae) deploy formic acid as a defense mechanism.

The ants rush along the trail of powdered sugar, and when they see the large pile of white powder at the end of the trail, they dive in, thinking it is more sugar. The chemical reaction between the formic acid and the baking soda causes them to exploded into a million pieces.
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