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Old 05-23-2012, 11:03 AM   #15
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This was the first time running with a battery because of restoration being done since I purchased it. The TV pulls and brakes work great without the battery. All the lights work as they should. Where would the UCord be located? I'm going to go threw all the brake grounds again this evening for a second look.
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:19 AM   #16
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This was the first time running with a battery because of restoration being done since I purchased it. The TV pulls and brakes work great without the battery. All the lights work as they should. Where would the UCord be located? I'm going to go threw all the brake grounds again this evening for a second look.
The u cord is what plugs into the tow vehicle. Umbilical cord, or imbecile cord, depending on your perspective.
Bear in mind the industry standard has chamged since your trailer was built. You should make sure the pins on the plug go to what your tow vehicle is wired for.
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:15 PM   #17
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I updated the cord and camper connector. One of the first things I did, however, the wiring was pretty jacked up from the previous owner, so it took a lot of trouble shooting to identify each wire
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:29 PM   #18
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Alright, I took the converter completely out, no battery is on board, no shore power and the TV is unhooked but I still have 12v pushing threw the blue charge line on the camper. Is there a hidden power source that I'm missing here?
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:40 PM   #19
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Maybe their is a second battery or a solar panel.
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:43 PM   #20
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Alright, I took the converter completely out, no battery is on board, no shore power and the TV is unhooked but I still have 12v pushing threw the blue charge line on the camper. Is there a hidden power source that I'm missing here?

How are you measuring the 12 volt on the blue line?
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Old 05-23-2012, 04:36 PM   #21
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Maybe their is a second battery or a solar panel.
If this is not the source of the voltage with all else disconnected you may have invented the preternatural motion machine.

What are you using as a ground when measuring this spurious voltage, Chassis?
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Old 05-23-2012, 04:52 PM   #22
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I'm getting the 12v reading with a multimeter. It eventually lost the power after about 15 minutes at a steady decrease in voltage of about 1/minute. I took a second reading at the positive feed at the battery and got the same reading.
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:13 PM   #23
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What are you using for the ground when you measure this voltage. The Chassis?

Are you saying that you measured voltage at 2 different location at 2 different times? If so what was the time laps between these measurements?

It beginning to look like there is a solar panel some where on that trailer.
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:40 PM   #24
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Get a auto pig tail fuse holder and some 15 amp fuses.
Connect the battery on the trailer. With the meter locate the pin on the U cord that has 12 volts to chassis. Put a fuse in the fuse holder. Put on end in the pin on the U cord that had 12 volts. Now one by one touch each of the other pins and have someone note what comes on. You will see the parking lights, the left and right directional. Two of the pins will most likely blow the fuse. The ground and possibly the brakes. Once you have determined what may be the brakes and ground jack up one side of the trailer and while someone spins one of the wheels again touch one of these two pins. If the fuse blows replace it and try the other, that should be the brakes and the wheel should stop when you touch that pin.

Now you have mapped the trailer electrical system at the U cord. With your meter find 12 volts on the truck, ignition may have to be on depending on your trucks wiring, and have someone turn on, one at a time, the parking lights, left and right directional and hit the brakes. Test the remaining pin for for ground to the truck chassis with the ohm meter.

Let us know if the pin configuration is the same, note they will be on opposite sides as you look at the u cord and the truck receptacle.

The center pin may or may not be hooked up as it is often used as an Aux Connection.

We need to know that there is not a wiring problem between the 2 units.
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:42 PM   #25
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In my mind, the primary question is a secondary concern . . . after the phenomena of measurable voltage on a disconnected wire. I'd actually pay to see this in person.
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:47 AM   #26
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I did the 12v test on the lines and everything is as it should be and working properly. I attempted to bypass everything and wire the break away switch straight from the battery and to the same brake line that the TV uses on the camper side harness and within a few seconds after pulling the plug on the switch, it melted. Almost makes me think I'm getting feedback from the camper brakes causing an over voltage, but if that were the case I would think it would affect the brake controller on the TV. I pulled the converter/charger and completely required it last night as well as every growing wire I could locate and the battery connections as well and the results were the same as before. Brakes/lights work perfectly with the TV but as soon as I hookup the camper battery, the TV controller doesn't recognize that the camper is hooked up.
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Old 05-24-2012, 08:07 AM   #27
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Are you saying the breakaway switch melted? If so, I would suspect that you either have a coil in one of the brake assemblies that is shorted to common/ground, the wire from the breakaway switch is shorted to common/ground or the wiring to the brakes under the trailer is shorted.
Did the wires from the breakaway switch melt? Or did you just blow up the breakaway switch?
I would start with a meter and look for shorts to ground.
I would also use a battery charger for a power source to check everything out. You won't burn things up using a battery charger. If there is a short, the charger will just crowbar and shut down.
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Old 05-24-2012, 08:18 AM   #28
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Not knowing how you wire the emergency switch and what size wire you used. If you used less than a #12 wire I can understand that the melted. That was the reason for requiring a 15 amp fuse while testing the brakes so it would fail before something melted. That circuit supplies the full battery voltage to the brakes and will normally melt any wire in it that is less than #12. The only reason I could see it melting a correctly sized wire is if one of the brake magnets was shorted internally. That would cause the current to go beyond the limits of correctly sized wire.

You might contact the maker of the controller and ask if a shorted magnet would effect the proof of connection circuit, TV to trailer, in their controller.

I am sorry but I do not think I should remotely offer any additional help.
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