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adonh · 11-19-2008, 02:51 PM

As I am going to replace my axles on my 1976 31' A/S I am giving serious consideration to installing the Kodiak disc bake system at the same time. I don't see any problems with me being able to replace the axle, from all of the various posts on the forum seems fairly straight forward. But what about installing the Kodiak disc brakes. Again seem to be fairly straight forward with detailed instructions provided. I am mechanically inclined and have done most of the repair and modifications on the A/S. Input from those that have completed this project would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Don

Gunnyusmc · 11-19-2008, 04:12 PM

There are a lot of brake lines too run, but if you are good with a tubing bender and flare tool, go for it.

Gunny

Sunset Coast · 11-19-2008, 06:59 PM

I too installed new axles and disc brakes on our '88 32'er two years ago and the installation was straight forward. I was able to use standard length tubing so I did not have to flare any ends, just used the bending tool. Lots of folks here will help with any questions you may have. Good luck and keep us posted on progress.
Doug

EXCEL88 · 11-19-2008, 07:04 PM

Installed axles and 12" discs on a 1988 Excella 25' a few months ago. Because of cold weather and and other activities, I have not taken it on a trip. A short test drive proved that it stops very well.

A short talk with Andy R. and his people provided axles that fit up very well. The hydraulic brake lines took a little coaxing. The best tools were tube cutter, tube bender and a flaring tool.

Am planning to include pictures and words on my adventure. I'll try to detail my accomplishments and wish-i'd-done differentlys.

The new axles raised the rig just enough to make it ride level. It took a few bumps I encountered very well.

adonh · 11-24-2008, 08:18 AM

For those with Disc brakes, where do you mount the actuator? The setup below from "TinDiesel" in the A frame looks good. Was this a custom made box to hold the Actuator?

Thanks

Don

Inland RV Center, In · 11-24-2008, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adonh

For those with Disc brakes, where do you mount the actuator? The setup below from "TinDiesel" in the A frame looks good. Was this a custom made box to hold the Actuator?

Thanks

Don

The best place to install the Actuator, is in an access compartment or under the front lounge.

That, first of all, keeps it out of the weather,

Secondly, you may have a neighbor who also wants disc brakes. Seeing your actuator, might be a tempting source of supply.

Andy

adonh · 12-02-2008, 06:39 AM

I saw some previous posts with instructions and pictures on running the brake line for the disc brakes. Now I can't seem to find them.

help.

Don

overlander63 · 12-02-2008, 07:45 AM

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ics-30727.html

adonh · 12-03-2008, 01:09 PM

I am going to revisit my earlier question on where to mount the actuator in my 1976 31' Sovereign, center bath. The Actibrake manual says to mount in the front of the trailer to reduce the effect of voltage drop through long spans of wire. I replaced my old couch with 2 recliners a long time ago that are mounted to the floor. In between the recliners I built a small cabinet that is large enough to hold the actuator but would be a little tight in getting to it for service. The other option I was thinking about was in the center driver side closet, mounting it on the wheel well. I can snake the necessary wires from the front of the trailer down the driver side behind the fridg and cabinets to the closet. But that would be a total wire run of about 15 to 18 feet. Would that cause a problem.

Also my 12 volt knowledge is not that great so bare with me. In looking at the wiring schematic ( I have attached a pdf image) it all looks pretty straight forward. But a few questions.

1. AUXILIARY HOT WIRE. I assume that the center pin in my 7 way plug is hot.

2. Brown wire from actuator to (+) on battery.Where are to what would this wire actually connect?

3 Breakaway Switch. I will be installing a new breakaway switch that came with the actuator. I assume that I simply connect one wire to the hot wire running to the old break away switch that will be the "Hot Side" and then connect the other wire to the orange wire back to the actuator which will be the "Cold Side".

Thanks

Don

overlander63 · 12-03-2008, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adonh

1. AUXILIARY HOT WIRE. I assume that the center pin in my 7 way plug is hot.

Don

The center pin should be for the backup lights. The real hot wire is the one next to the locating lug on the connector, usually on top.

**Action** · 12-04-2008, 04:35 PM

Longer wire runs require larger wire gauge. Just step up to a larger gauge wire and I believe you will be OK with voltage drop.

What gauge you ask????? The answer would be depends on how much current would be flowing.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

adonh · 12-05-2008, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

The real hot wire is the one next to the locating lug on the connector, usually on top.

Does the actuator receive power from the tow vehicle 12 volts through the 7 pin connection, or from the trailer battery while towing?

Don

overlander63 · 12-05-2008, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adonh

Does the actuator receive power from the tow vehicle 12 volts through the 7 pin connection, or from the trailer battery while towing?

Don

It gets its power from the battery, which is replenished from the 7 pin connector.

lwp99 · 12-07-2008, 07:19 PM

I'm posting this because I'm not comfortable with the reliability of the Kodiak system... read on for my experience. Perhaps others can/will comment on possible solutions.

I had Kodiak disk brakes installed on my 2005 25' Safari in mid-2007. They worked great for about a year, then failed when we were on the road in Montana. I found a dealer who contacted Kodiak - the actuator was replaced under warranty with a new unit. The new unit (different actuator than original) operated much quieter, and the brakes worked great during the remainder of our trip into Canada, then back home to AZ. HOWEVER, a few days ago, while moving the trailer around the house, I found the brakes were no longer working. I don't know the reason, and will be taking the trailer to the dealer who initially installed the brakes to troubleshoot the system.

lwp99 · 12-07-2008, 07:32 PM

Addidtional info on my situation: The Prodigy controller does not indicate a connection, and there is no braking system activation; however the trailer exterior lights being fed through the connector do work. I have not checked the voltage at the plug on the tow vehicle.

3Ms75Argosy · 12-07-2008, 08:48 PM

hmmm,, try spraying some wd40 at the metal pins and slots to clean up the connections.

Another thought... 1) check your trailer ground for a good connection. 2) If you haven't used the trailer for awhile, is your trailer battery charged? However, the Prodigy should still show a connection... so maybe the battery isn't the culprit.

Good luck!
Marc

lwp99 · 12-07-2008, 09:38 PM

Thanks. I will try the WD40. And, we've been to that Paul Bunyon and his blue ox!

adonh · 12-08-2008, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lwp99

I'm posting this because I'm not comfortable with the reliability of the Kodiak system...

Other than the one time where the actuator was replaced, under warranty, have you had any other issues with the Kodiak brake system. It sounds like the problem you are having now may be a batter or controller problem.

Thanks

Don

lwp99 · 12-08-2008, 05:37 PM

Update on my Kodiak installation:

Marc: I applied WD40 - there is now a good connection and the brakes are functioning. (Operator error!) Thanks!

Don: Other than the actuator replacement, which Kodiak responded to promptly, the system has been great. Much better than the drum brakes, especially when coming down a mountain road. The stopping action is much smoother with none of the lurching experienced with the original drum brakes. It is definitely a change that I'd recommend.

Re: controller. The Prodigy was installed when I bought the trailer. When the Kodiak was being investigated after the failure, the dealer received assurance from Kodiak that it was an acceptable controller. If there had been any question, I would have replaced it.

To all: The reason for my initial response to this stream was the similar sympton to the initial failure, and wanting to hear if others had similar experiences. The first failure occurred when leaving a campground driving 10 mph. I didn't want to be driving down a mountain pass during the next failure. In this case, the Kodiak system was fine. It was "my" problem of not checking the connector. Fortunately, the WD40 solved the problem, and is a lesson to remember! I appreciated the helpful advice and hopefully haven't given anyone an incorrect impression of the Kodiak system.

adonh · 12-30-2008, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adonh

I am going to revisit my earlier question on where to mount the actuator in my 1976 31' Sovereign, center bath.

My axle replacement and disc brake install has been on hold due to work, holidays, weather and conflicting schedules with my son and a neighbor who are going to help me with this project. At this point it looks like the the weekend of January the 10th before I can get started.

At this point it looks like I will be mounting the actuator in the center closet (drivers side) on the floor next to the wheel well. I can run all of my wires along the sides from the front 7 pin connector base back to the actuator. Then I should be bale to drill down through the flooring to run the bake line that connects to the actuator and then "T" off to the wheels from there. I plan on covering the brake line that goes through the floor with a rubber type hose for protection.

Any thoughts on this approach.

Thanks Don