I think the factory setup that monitors the actual hydraulic pressure is the only system that's going to work correctly in all situation without adjustment. With what I know now I'd probably opt for the inertia style controller and manually apply the trailer brakes on long down grades.
I suppose it's a liability thing that no one has an aftermarket controller that monitors the hydraulic pressure. It seems the next best thing would be to make it speed sensisitive. That would require a monitor akin to the aftermarket cruise controls or tapping into the cars computer. Don't know if it would be legal but all that information is available on modern vehicles with OBDII.
Does any one know if the wiring harness from my 04 Suburban is the same for the 06 Silverado 2500 HD?
I checked the Tekonsha site, but they only list up to 04. They are closed untill Wed...
Also, I remember having to do something with a fuse under the hood when I installed it on the 04. Could not find the instructions for that either. Any remember what that was all about?
Bill ~ I think that the GM cable kit works on 03's to the current models. I remember several threads that talk about fuses in GM trucks, they had to do with the line that charges the battery from the truck. It seems that GM left that fuse out and trailers batteries were not getting charged.
The fuse in my '01 2500hd is a 40 amp that must be plugged in to power the brake circuit.
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
Here is a pic of the 40A fuse installation. This fuse was taped to my OEM '06 GMC 2500 pigtail and my local dealer's diesel mechanic showed me right where to put it. As you say, there was a dummy plastic insert before I put the pictured fuse into position. This is in a fusebox at the top left edge of the front quarter panel, right behind the main battery. Front is to the left. See this post.
__________________ Bob
Last edited by CanoeStream; 07-03-2006 at 08:21 PM.
Here is a pic of the 40A fuse installation. This fuse was taped to my OEM '06 GMC 2500 pigtail and my local dealer's diesel mechanic showed me right where to put it. As you say, there was a dummy plastic insert before I put the pictured fuse into position. This is in a fusebox at the top left edge of the front quarter panel, right behind the main battery. Front is to the left. See this post.
Here is a pic of the 40A fuse installation. This fuse was taped to my OEM '06 GMC 2500 pigtail and my local dealer's diesel mechanic showed me right where to put it. As you say, there was a dummy plastic insert before I put the pictured fuse into position. This is in a fusebox at the top left edge of the front quarter panel, right behind the main battery. Front is to the left. See this post.
Hi Bob, do you know if that was the second fuse slot from the left?
I believe the first slot is blank?
The fuse in my '01 2500hd is a 40 amp that must be plugged in to power the brake circuit.
First thing I would do is dump that fuse and replace it with a similarly rated auto-reset circuit breaker! If that fuse blows for any reason and you need your trailer brakes.....THEY WON'T BE THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have great difficulty believing that GM would equip any vehicle for towing with any type of fuse in the trailer brake power circuit.
The auto-reset breaker will at least pulse the brakes if you have an over current situation. A blown fuse will do NOTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!
__________________ Lew Farber -Certified Master RV Tech (currently on Forums sabbatical) WBCCI #1456/VAC (assoc) #1456 AIR # 10325 CHARTER MEMBER: FOUR CORNERS UNIT
I had a different experience with the fuse in my 2004 Chev Silverado 2500. It was over a year before I discovered that there was only a dummy fuse in its place. During that time, my brakes and everything worked properly - what I was missing was the 12v hot line to the trailer. This was why my trailer battery would not charge even after a long day's travel - and I found myself with absolutely no battery during our last night in the Smokies. Once I found the fuse and installed it, the only thing the fuse did was send power to the 12v hot line to the trailer.
Stay away from the Time delay controllers like the Hoppy. If I'd known better I'd have never bought it. So much for trusting the RV dealer. The other interesting design I'll throw in the mix is the Jordan.
I have been reading various posts with regards to brake controllers. I will probably purchase the Prodigy due to simplicity of operation, installation, etc... I also understand the brake controller's function is to coordinate the effort to stop the TV-Trailer combination in sync. What I don't truly understand is when you plug the controller into the pre-wired setup on your TV, does the controller then receive input information from the TV's onboard computer and/or braking system AND does it receive some sort of input from the 7-pin connector from the trailer which I suppose is feeding the controller some sort of sensory data which the controller utilizes to stop eventually stop both vehicles in tandem?
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