15" rim vs. 16" rim ?

[Wingeezer]

Originally Posted by Ron A

I purchased a spare, however, think it is a matter of preference.


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I did also - I'm sure it would be fine to use a 15" temporarily as a spare, but I thought it might be worth getting five 16" rather than four in case I ever had a problem with one wheel and at that time could not buy an identical replacement, I would at least have one spare of the same design!

Bit of a long shot I guess, but that was my thought at the time.

Also, I could use it in rotation with the other wheels - not sure I ever will though, kinda lazy about that sort of thing!

Meanwhile it just sits in the back of our truck - being aluminum, it seems too nice a wheel to leave it under the trailer getting covered in road salt when we head south in winter!

Brian.

[Hans627]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

According to Tirerack the 235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S have a rim range of 6" to 8". Check the width of your rims. Maybe contact Airstream. On my 25fb 15" rims they were 6" rims so I was able to upgrade from the GYM 225/75x15 to the Michelin 235/75s.

Kelvin

Is there any concern with the load rating of the 235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S tires on your 25fb?

Thanks!

[pappy19]

A lot less concern than running ST tires. One big advantage of running 16" rims is that you can run E rated LT tires, the same rated tires that 3/4 and 1 ton trucks run when towing. If safety is any factor to you vs price of tires, then no reason not to run 16" E rated.

[Oxen]

Originally Posted by NavyCorpsman

My tire guy tells me that 15" tire gave way to 16", and now the trend is 17 and 18".

Could it be that, in addition to other factors, a larger diameter tire does not turn as fast and, therefore, is not subject to as much wear and violence as a smaller diameter tire? And, imagine a small tire rolling through a sharp edged rut in the road compared to a larger diameter tire. A larger tire is better able to roll over the edge than into it.

Jer

[m.hony]

The difference in RPM due to diameter shouldn't create that much more heat or pressure.
We drove cars with 13" or 14" wheels at 70 mph for 30 years.


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[jcanavera]

For me it was a matter of doing the math. First iis my deductible cost in repairing the damage caused by a tire failure. Second the fact that both my Marathons and Maxxis tires failed at the end of year 3 or the beginning of year 4 of use telling me that 3 years is the max life for an ST on my weight Airsteam. So figuring I can most likely use 2 sets of LT tires in 10 years vs 3 sets of ST tires, and adding in the cost of damage, going to 16" wheels and LT tires is both cost effective and safer than sitting on the side of a highway with a blown tire.

Jack

[m.hony]

I'm in Jack's camp.


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[tjdonahoe]

Ordered my new michelins 225/75/16 from Costco , wheels from king of wheels, will get mounted next week.. My marathons have 20000 miles and are at 50 per cent and they did good........

[MACINRIC]

I am looking at some nice 16" wheel tire combos but I'm wondering if they'll fit my AS. They came off a different tow vehicle. Do I need to expect to swap out size up the hub where the wheel bolts are?

-Mac

[moxie t. moto]

just ordered my new rims & wheels from performance tire in ca. nice folks to do business with {Stephen] saved a ton of $ state tax & free shipping.
airstream recommends 80lbs. pressure in this comb. [eddie bauer]
I typically tow at 60-65 and only exceed this if and when I have to pass.
any recommened pressures that anyone has to offer?
I assume factory lug nuts will fit?
if I knew how to post pictures I would ! any suggestuons as to how to do that? the pictures posted by those that made the switch helped convince me that new everything would look great!
moxie t. moto

[jcanavera]

When I ordered new wheels I also ordered new lug nuts too. It made it much easier to sell the old wheels to another Airstream owner. I tow at 80 psi because I have a heavy 30' slide out. Airstream always recommends 80 when using the LT tires due to the fact that they don't know the weight of your loaded trailer and 80 psi gives you the maximum load capacity that is stamped on the sidewall. Lots of discussions here on the forum regarding tire pressure recommendations. I think the consensus is if you have never weighed your loaded trailer, then anything you put in is a best guess. It's better to be a little on the high side than be under inflated which will always result in a hot tire and ply separation leading to failure.

Jack

[m.hony]

I ordered new lug nuts, too, because the original ones with the chrome covers were junk.
Sold the OE wheels on Airstream classifieds.


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[Cannonball]

Interesting info on the Discount Tire website. They say to run ST tires at the max pressure on the sidewall. Also that the lifespan is 3-4 years, and 5000-12,000 miles. Good for thought.


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[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by Cannonball

Interesting info on the Discount Tire website. They say to run ST tires at the max pressure on the sidewall. Also that the lifespan is 3-4 years, and 5000-12,000 miles. Good for thought.


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Which is why ST tires are a ripoff.


Brevi tempore!

[nrgtrakr]

All tires get ~old~ ...
http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/how-...our-tires.html
My father was a chemical engineer, worked for Gates Rubber product improvement, avid RVer, who grew up on a farm before tractors. He could remember the evolution of various types of tires for different applications and his towables always had STs, never any problems.

[m.hony]

Originally Posted by Cannonball

Interesting info on the Discount Tire website. They say to run ST tires at the max pressure on the sidewall. Also that the lifespan is 3-4 years, and 5000-12,000 miles. Good for thought.


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Spot on!
That's why I got 16" wheels and LT tires.
The life expectancy just went to 5-8 years and I am no longer limited to 65 mph, although I still tow at 65 mph max for other reasons like reaction time, stopping distance, and fuel economy.
It makes more sense to buy better tires snd get longer tread life.


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[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by jcanavera

For me it was a matter of doing the math. First iis my deductible cost in repairing the damage caused by a tire failure. Second the fact that both my Marathons and Maxxis tires failed at the end of year 3 or the beginning of year 4 of use telling me that 3 years is the max life for an ST on my weight Airsteam. So figuring I can most likely use 2 sets of LT tires in 10 years vs 3 sets of ST tires, and adding in the cost of damage, going to 16" wheels and LT tires is both cost effective and safer than sitting on the side of a highway with a blown tire.

Jack

Have to wonder if you know the reason for the tire failures. Simply changing to different size may or may not address the "root cause" for your tire failure.
Simply saying the tire blew out is not a real analysis as the term "blowout" is not sufficiently detailed or accurate to know the real cause.

A bit like saying an old person died, doesn't tell you if the cause was Influenza, heart disease, or diabetes. Each of these are specific and different "reasons" so getting a flu shot to prevent influenza will be of no help in preventing diabetes.

[nrgtrakr]

Yep ... what Tireman9 said ...

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by MACINRIC

I am looking at some nice 16" wheel tire combos but I'm wondering if they'll fit my AS. They came off a different tow vehicle. Do I need to expect to swap out size up the hub where the wheel bolts are?

-Mac

When swapping wheels there are a number of dimensions and "fit" issues that need to be considered.
Wheel "offset" controls the location of the tire toward or away from the center of the vehicle.
Center bore may be critical as some wheels are "hub centric" which means the center of rotation is controlled by the fit of the wheel to the hub. Others are "lug centric" which means the fit of the lug nuts controls the wheel/tire run-out.
Lug nut fit. Most steel wheels have a "cone fit" where the taper of the lug nut fits the taper of the wheel center. Aluminum wheels may have a simple cone fit with a straight taper or a radiused, or “ball” style. The two styles must never be mixed. The seat profile in the wheel dictates the nut or bolt seat style. There is also a "mag style" that requires a large flat washer.
While it may be possible to initially use the wrong type nut the results will be a loss of torque and damage to the wheel with the potential of having a wheel come off the vehicle.

I will be expanding on these items on my blog on RVTireSafety

[m.hony]

Just get 6" zero offset wheels with a 6 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern and a 4.25 center bore and lug nuts with the same threads and seat angle and everything will be fine.


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