AC drip system outside walls?

[Iansk]

Has anyone installed the Dometic drip cup/tube outside the inner skin? I am thinking of a quick connect type connection on the roof so that when I have the AC running the condensation can run down the tube outside the trailer into a bucket or plant or something.

I should mention, this is on my '78 Avion that doesn't have the tube inside the inner wall like my '77 airstream does/did/will again.

I am getting a new AC (replacement for the new one I just got that what was damaged during shipping) and was considering adding the double gasket and drip cup kit as a way to curtail the insane amount of condensation generated here in humid TX when running the AC. I'd rather it not just pool up and run down the sides and would like to have control over what gets wet when I can.

Plan would include a cap for the tail when in transit/storage and a 10'-15' long drain tube that I'd connect when camping or using the AC at home. I carry a ladder with me when camping.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Ian

[Belegedhel]

Can't say that I have ever heard of anyone doing something like this...

Not knowing much about how Avions are put together, I ask, is there a way to install the condensate capture system as if you had the line in the wall, but then run your new line behind a celing panel for a few feet, then have it come out of the ceiling and go down to the floor within a cabinet/closet? If your Avion has a center panel that hides the central nervous system (wiring harness, etc., like in Airstreams), this might be easier to achieve than running something all the way to the floor within a wall, and less hassle than climbing up and connecting the drain tube at each camping spot.

good luck!

[Iansk]

Originally Posted by Belegedhel

Can't say that I have ever heard of anyone doing something like this...

Not knowing much about how Avions are put together, I ask, is there a way to install the condensate capture system as if you had the line in the wall, but then run your new line behind a celing panel for a few feet, then have it come out of the ceiling and go down to the floor within a cabinet/closet? If your Avion has a center panel that hides the central nervous system (wiring harness, etc., like in Airstreams), this might be easier to achieve than running something all the way to the floor within a wall, and less hassle than climbing up and connecting the drain tube at each camping spot.

good luck!

Maybe I can finally be the first at something then ...

Avions (my era anyway) have the benefit and curse of rigid spray foam insulation. Benefit: amazing insulation, my SilverStreak with traditional insulation is miserable in this heat we are having even with the AC running full blast. It's my office and I can't use it right now but the Avion, parked next to it is blessedly cool on low.
Curse: accessing/routing stuff in the walls.

The rigid insulation has held up remarkably well and shows no sign of breaking down or turning to powder.

My Avion interior is in perfect original condition and I am loath to turn it into an aluminum onion unless I have a serious need to so I'd like to approach this from the outside where I will have to remove and replace the unit.

I actually went to the hardware store and cobbled together some bits to try it as a test and other than the tubing being undersized and casting some vapor lock, it worked pretty well.

My AS is in a million bits and pieces so I was able to yoink the drip cups from it to see about size/height etc...

I can reach the edge of my AC unit from a 6 step ladder and if it's just a matter of a slip fit hose, I figure, why not?

Thanks Belegedhel,
stay cool down there...

Ian

[Belegedhel]

Seems very do-able, and also sounds like you have already gone a long way in that direction, in terms of piecing it together and planning it out. Full speed ahead, I say!

Heat endex down here yesterday was 114 F. With the blessing of a huge shade tree, I can cool my (nearly empty of cabinetry) Airstream with the AC running at something between medium and full blast to a comfortable level. Doubt if it would have a chance in the full sun.

good luck!

[perryg114]

It should work but keep in mind that in really humid environments the cups don't work that well. This is an issue that can be fixed if you want to do some work. Main issue is that there are places where the water bypasses the cups on the drain pan. The holes can be sealed and you should have a good system.



Perry

[Iansk]

Originally Posted by perryg114

It should work but keep in mind that in really humid environments the cups don't work that well. This is an issue that can be fixed if you want to do some work. Main issue is that there are places where the water bypasses the cups on the drain pan. The holes can be sealed and you should have a good system.



Perry

Thanks Perry,

I see no real reason why it shouldn't work, which is why I wanted to see what I could be missing. Adding another layer of gasket, but not having to cut it and route the lines through the gasket is appealing. I'm thinking I'd mount the cups in reverse so the drain spout face out, shorten those a bit and start the line with an elbow to connect the two sides via a T and add my line from there.

The mockup I did was giving me vapor lock (if that's the right term) and the water would backup until i shook the drain line, then water would come pouring out. Thinking this was due to too small of tubing at 1/4" ID.

I've got the extra gasket kit already from another project and the cups off my airstream, so it's not an added expense.

New AC arrives today though I doubt I'll get to an install until next week. May just throw it on some sawhorses and play with the cup placement.

In trying to cool down my SilverStreak, I collected almost 5 gallons of runoff over night! Huuuumid.

Ian

[perryg114]

5 gallons is a lot of water. You live in Houston or something?




Perry

[Belegedhel]

So if you aren't running the tubes through the doubled gaskets and into the trailer, do you really need the doubled gaskets? Are they needed just to give you adequate clearance for the cups?

[cazual6]

I don't see why not.

I'm actually brainstorming how I can do that to my Split System at my house. I would want to redirect that condensation to my emergency water collector.

The key would be using the least resistance for water to flow with maximum downward angle.

[DoubleR]

I just replaced the drain cups on my single 15,000 BTU AC unit and added the additional gasket to our 2014 FC 25 FBT. We were having water leaking inside the trailer from the passenger side of the AC inside diverter. I found that the nipple on the drain cup on passenger side was broken and the water was leaking back into the trailer from that break. Long story short the drain tube is 1/2” ID. I added an additional coupling and hose to the hose end in the wheel well so that the drain water was drained away from the trailer pad to the ground. Our pad at Lake Livingston SP was fairly dry last week compared to other trailers where they were walking in drain water. Try a 1/2” Tube to see if it allows the water to drain easier.

[Iansk]

Originally Posted by perryg114

5 gallons is a lot of water. You live in Houston or something?




Perry

Within the Austin city limits. It was especially humid last night.

Ian

[Iansk]

Originally Posted by Belegedhel

So if you aren't running the tubes through the doubled gaskets and into the trailer, do you really need the doubled gaskets? Are they needed just to give you adequate clearance for the cups?

Yeah, you need the double gasket to clear the cups. Compressing the gaskets to about 50% and/or 40-50 lbs of torque would push the cups into the roof without doubling up...

Ian

[Iansk]

Originally Posted by DoubleR

I just replaced the drain cups on my single 15,000 BTU AC unit and added the additional gasket to our 2014 FC 25 FBT. We were having water leaking inside the trailer from the passenger side of the AC inside diverter. I found that the nipple on the drain cup on passenger side was broken and the water was leaking back into the trailer from that break. Long story short the drain tube is 1/2” ID. I added an additional coupling and hose to the hose end in the wheel well so that the drain water was drained away from the trailer pad to the ground. Our pad at Lake Livingston SP was fairly dry last week compared to other trailers where they were walking in drain water. Try a 1/2” Tube to see if it allows the water to drain easier.

Yeah, 1/2" seems about right. I'll have to look at the drain cups and hose I stole from the airstream.

I'm considering going with the Coleman Mach 8 instead of the Dometic Penguin II, still need to investigate whether the Dometic cups can be screwed to the pan of the Mach...

Does anyone have any input on that? Or if Coleman makes a similar deal? Heading to Google after this post, but figured I'd ask.

Ian

[Iansk]

Good thing (or not) that I am my own boss because instead of working I am researching this little project.

I think this thread could very well help folks down the road who don't want water running down their trailer and either don't have a drain tube installed in the wall or perhaps it's clogged or damaged or???

Anyway, as I move towards the Mach 8 over the present Dometic Penguin II (reasons being: 1) Made in the USA vs China, 2) purported to be quieter and 3) the first unit was damaged during shipping but I had already removed the old unit and we were going camping for my birthday (same as Wally's). Amazon was kind enough to replace the unit but that one arrived yesterday and looked like Godzilla played football with it so I refused shipment. Amazon graciously granted an immediate refund so I can get another AC to use the box to send the old unit back in.) I am finding that Coleman uses a condensation pump that is wired in as opposed to cups. While searching the webs I ran across The Greatly's great blog (again) and saw they detailed the installation of their Mach 8.

The Mach units collect condensation into a cup on the curbside and drain onto the roof from there. What is nice about this set up is that I don't need to add the second gasket and can just install a passive drain here.

In the photo below you can see two holes in the water collection bay, I think I'll close one and enlarge the other to attach a drain and quick connect type of fitting.

Check the Greatly's blog, it is a fount of information:

https://thegreatleys.com/journal

Stole this photo from the Greatly's blog:

[57Vintage]

If you decide on the Mach 8, I would suggest ordering with the condensate pump installed. You can just reroute the drain tube lead supplied to meet your exterior drain plans. That may eliminate the need for 2 mounting pads.

I'd also recommend installing a Micro-air Easy Start before installing the AC. Much easier to do on the ground.

[TheGreatleys]

Originally Posted by Iansk

Good thing (or not) that I am my own boss because instead of working I am researching this little project.

I think this thread could very well help folks down the road who don't want water running down their trailer and either don't have a drain tube installed in the wall or perhaps it's clogged or damaged or???

Anyway, as I move towards the Mach 8 over the present Dometic Penguin II (reasons being: 1) Made in the USA vs China, 2) purported to be quieter and 3) the first unit was damaged during shipping but I had already removed the old unit and we were going camping for my birthday (same as Wally's). Amazon was kind enough to replace the unit but that one arrived yesterday and looked like Godzilla played football with it so I refused shipment. Amazon graciously granted an immediate refund so I can get another AC to use the box to send the old unit back in.) I am finding that Coleman uses a condensation pump that is wired in as opposed to cups. While searching the webs I ran across The Greatly's great blog (again) and saw they detailed the installation of their Mach 8.

The Mach units collect condensation into a cup on the curbside and drain onto the roof from there. What is nice about this set up is that I don't need to add the second gasket and can just install a passive drain here.

In the photo below you can see two holes in the water collection bay, I think I'll close one and enlarge the other to attach a drain and quick connect type of fitting.

Check the Greatly's blog, it is a fount of information:

https://thegreatleys.com/journal

Stole this photo from the Greatly's blog:

The hole in the bottom of where the condensate pump goes is directed downward toward the roof. I think you're going to have trouble putting a bulkhead fitting with tubing attached there.

You might be able to close up those two holes and put a bulkhead fitting in the side. As long as it's below the top overflow of that space, it should be OK to passively drain. I'd use larger tubing like 1/2" if possible to make sure the drain flows freely.

Or you could install the condensate pump and route the tubing to the outside.

[Iansk]

Originally Posted by TheGreatleys

The hole in the bottom of where the condensate pump goes is directed downward toward the roof. I think you're going to have trouble putting a bulkhead fitting with tubing attached there.

You might be able to close up those two holes and put a bulkhead fitting in the side. As long as it's below the top overflow of that space, it should be OK to passively drain. I'd use larger tubing like 1/2" if possible to make sure the drain flows freely.

Or you could install the condensate pump and route the tubing to the outside.

Thanks for the feed back. From one of your other pictures on your blog the holes looked to be canted a touch but I guess not. I pick up the unit on Wednesday and take a look then. May just order the pump now and return if I feel I don’t need it. I’m a “less moving parts the better” kind of guy.

I did order the easy start though, as much for potential longevity of the AC as the ability to run off one 2000 watt putt putt.

I’ll let you know what I come up with.

Ian