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Old 11-28-2010, 06:48 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by masonair View Post
I just had the same problem. I have a 2008 International 23 CCD. The Freg is a DOMESTIC 2852. My batteries have been fading faster latetly and as soon as the batteries dropped off the gas is turned off. totally frustating since it defeats the purpose in my opinion. I would hook up to the truck and the gas would fire up instantly. Is there a way to override the electric control mechanism?
New Battery.
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:06 PM   #22
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Batteries fading faster

Masonair, Please do not take this wrong, however, it appears you are expecting your batteries as well as your refridgerator to do things they are not expected to do.
Educating yourself on these two very unique systems can help you understand their 'nonperformance'.
Your batteries, if new when the trailer was purchased should not be 'bad' and therefore should not need to be replaced. Most likely they still have much life left in them provided you have not run them to 20% several times. Proper maintaining of the batteries will result in proper performance. Remember, they are there to perform only the function they are built for and capable of, not what you necessarily expect them to.
As for the fridge, a fridge will never operate without some kind of sensing function to tell the unit when to operate. That sensing function comes from electricity. These fridges have computerized controls, another electrically run function. These fridges are not purely mechanical.
Airstreams are not meant to run weeks or more unattached to power.
Some Google or Airforums searches can provide more than enough technical information to explain the why's in full.
Here's wishing you many, many weeks and many trips of pure enjoyment in your Airstream!
jerry
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Old 12-07-2010, 07:09 AM   #23
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Well ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by steelbird312 View Post
As for the fridge, a fridge will never operate without some kind of sensing function to tell the unit when to operate. That sensing function comes from electricity. These fridges have computerized controls, another electrically run function. These fridges are not purely mechanical. ... Airstreams are not meant to run weeks or more unattached to power.
I agree with your analysis, except for one thing; some of the older models are "purely mechanical" or at least do NOT have electric thermostats, cricuit board, igniters, etc. and DO NOT need electricity to function. That was precisely the tenor of much of the discussion dating back to 2007, above. I spend several weeks every year refrigerating my food (and drink!) in one that has NO electrical connection.

And there are also some models that will run on 120v, propane, OR 12volt. I have no personal experience with any of the "three-way" units, but from talking to those who do, I've learned that they have a pretty hefty current draw, so that unless you're actively towing and thus are supplying power from the tow vehicle's alternator or have a big solar array, this doesn't work too well for very long. It may be fine while in transit. My brother has a three-way and a biggish solar array and LOTS of battery capacity on a big houseboat, and he still always runs his off propane.
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Old 12-07-2010, 10:36 PM   #24
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Airsdream, remember my comments were directed to the owner of a 2008 Airstream, and his specific concerns, not as a blanket statement covering every type refridgeration unit available. If his is the original unit, it is a two way;electric or LP. Those units are computer board controlled (electricity required). If running on straight LP, even then, they are computer controlled. Prior to these type controls, the LP units had pilot lights that stayed lit all the time, and had thermal sensors that called for the unit to fire off that pilot, heat the unit, and produce the desired cooling. They are indeed mechanical, and will operate many days/weeks with no electricity.
My comments were to advise this owner that the thoughts of his units perceived failure was likely due to not knowing what the systems could actually produce or how they operate.
Again I say that computer controlled units MUST have electricity (12 volt) supplied to operate.
Sorry for the confusion.
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