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85Sovereign · 01-21-2007, 07:34 PM

When I have my fridge running on gas, how much or or important is the battery voltage? last year I had a terrible time keeping my fridge running in the gas mode. It could run for several hours or just a few minutes. I never knew what to expect.

A few days ago I was installing a new converter and Trimetric meter. I discovered that my batteries were shot. So, now I have my new coverter, meter, and 2 new size 31 Trojan batteries. When I had the old batteries tested under a load, they would fall to 10 volts. Could the bad batteries been my problem?

Greg
85 Sovereign 25'

RV_cool · 01-21-2007, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85Sovereign

When I have my fridge running on gas, how much or or important is the battery voltage? last year I had a terrible time keeping my fridge running in the gas mode. It could run for several hours or just a few minutes. I never knew what to expect.

A few days ago I was installing a new converter and Trimetric meter. I discovered that my batteries were shot. So, now I have my new coverter, meter, and 2 new size 31 Trojan batteries. When I had the old batteries tested under a load, they would fall to 10 volts. Could the bad batteries been my problem?

Greg
85 Sovereign 25'

It depends if the refrigerator has electronic controls, like a circut board and electric gas valve. If it's all manual, batteries won't have any effect.

Zeppelinium · 01-21-2007, 11:27 PM

the problem I've found in my Caravel and Overlander is that the burner is not baffled sufficiently and blows out with slight wind (ambient or towing). I fabricated a small box with appropriate slots and crimps to fit around the bottom and sides of the burner. Problem solved--very reliable since then.

This was with a 30 year old model and a brand new model (neither has electronic controls). Another old model, which the new one replaced, had a hand-made baffle box installed, but I didn't take the hint until the new one blew out as soon as the trailer moved.

Zep

rickandsandi · 01-22-2007, 07:22 AM

Greg-

You don't mention the make, model or year of your frig. Let us know and I am sure someone can be more helpful for you. I know our new one uses very little amps when on LP. Just enough to run the board and ignite.

**azflycaster** · 01-22-2007, 07:24 AM

The fridge in my 75 does not require any 12 volts. A little propane and a spark makes it work!

rickandsandi · 01-22-2007, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azflycaster

The fridge in my 75 does not require any 12 volts. A little propane and a spark makes it work!

Ahh, yes you are connected to your 12V system, contol board and ignitor both run off your 12V system. Or do you have to go outside an use a piazo ignitor?

85Sovereign · 01-22-2007, 01:43 PM

Sorry, I forgot some important information. The fridge is a Dometic 2804 (I think). I have the eyebrow panel in the TT with buttons for gas and A/C. Runs without any problems on electric. But with gas, I never know what it is going to do. I looked at the burner before and I think I remember that there is some type of shield around the flame, at the bottom of the flew. I had not turned the fridge on for over 12 months until yesterday. After I installed the new converter, meter, and batteries, I could hear the ignitor hit a few times and then bam, it lit and ran all day without any problems.

Thanks for all the help,

Greg

steelbird312 · 01-22-2007, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85Sovereign

Sorry, I forgot some important information. The fridge is a Dometic 2804 (I think). I have the eyebrow panel in the TT with buttons for gas and A/C.

Greg, Unless I am mistaken, there is also a couple of elec switches on the inside of the fridge door, up at the top, pointed downward. Look closely. If you do, they are for humidity control, both inside as well as outside. If they are turned on, they pull enough power, that, with bad batteries, they could indeed pull them down to the cut off point for the computerized unit.

85Sovereign · 01-22-2007, 04:48 PM

Thanks for the info. I'll look for those switches. I made a mistake about the model #. I actually have a Dometic 2611. Anything special about this model that would cause this problem?

Greg

**azflycaster** · 01-22-2007, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickandsandi

Ahh, yes you are connected to your 12V system, contol board and ignitor both run off your 12V system. Or do you have to go outside an use a piazo ignitor?

I do not think so. Model RM67 has no board. It has a piazo ignition. At least that is how I think it works. The manual shows no 12 volt connection.

wahoonc · 01-22-2007, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85Sovereign

When I have my fridge running on gas, how much or or important is the battery voltage? last year I had a terrible time keeping my fridge running in the gas mode. It could run for several hours or just a few minutes. I never knew what to expect.

A few days ago I was installing a new converter and Trimetric meter. I discovered that my batteries were shot. So, now I have my new coverter, meter, and 2 new size 31 Trojan batteries. When I had the old batteries tested under a load, they would fall to 10 volts. Could the bad batteries been my problem?

Greg
85 Sovereign 25'

Greg,
I would say good possibility...if your fridge requires the twelve volts. I know the replacement unit in mine is very sensitive to low voltage. 11.75 volts and it quits on the spot. FWIW my fridge is a Norcold that was installed in 2000, they had to add a 12v line to feed it because the old one did not require it.

Aaron

davidz71 · 01-22-2007, 05:51 PM

Greg,
I have the Dometic RM2620 in my 25' and it was a replacement. If you have buttons or switches which have ON/OFF, GAS/ELECTRIC/AUTO, a button for increasing or decreasing coldness and small lights to let you know what your fridge is doing then that panel uses 12 v. DC.

85Sovereign · 01-22-2007, 06:19 PM

Craig,

Yours sounds almost identical to mine. So does this mean that the fridge, when in the gas mode is very sensitive to battery condition?
Hopefully, with the new system I won't have the trouble I had with the previous set up.

Greg

davidz71 · 01-22-2007, 08:40 PM

Greg,
10.5 volts is considered 0% charged and 11.31 volts is considered 10% charged. You batteries were toast and I'd say they were the reason for your poor functioning refrigerator.

85Sovereign · 01-23-2007, 08:46 AM

Thanks again to everybodys input. I would assume that if the fridge is working for a full day in the gas mode, then there is no reason to take it to a repair shop to have the fridge looked at.

Greg

davidz71 · 01-23-2007, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85Sovereign

Thanks again to everybodys input. I would assume that if the fridge is working for a full day in the gas mode, then there is no reason to take it to a repair shop to have the fridge looked at.

Greg

I'd say your assumption is correct but I've been proven wrong before. Cross your fingers and if the fridge works for the entire day then you are good to go.

85Sovereign · 01-24-2007, 05:58 PM

We tested it for the last 24 hours. Not one problem. I think I have the fridge issue fixed.

Thanks again to everyone!!!

William_Mc · 01-25-2007, 01:35 PM

I have an '86 Sovereign and we likely have about the same model dometic refrigerator. Mine wants to find Battery power, gas, and 120 volt power. It decides on what to use and makes a choice. It will choose gas when the gas valve is on. The gas system is the most rapid in it's ability to do the cooling. I picked this up this past summer from an RV repair shop out West. They wanted it on gas to check the system and specifically requested it be on gas.

I've never tried to run the regrigerator without a battery. My belief is it wouldn't because so much of it is controlled by 12 volt current. My belief is that you've found your problem when you found the week batteries. In the world of mechanics, if you find a bonified problem is the likely source of the problem. Very seldom do more than one bite at a time.

I've never experienced what you describe except I've had the Off/On switch fail to remain in the on position and the green light told the story soon enough.

William_Mc

davidz71 · 01-25-2007, 08:34 PM

William, do you have the 3 way fridge: 12 v., 110 v., gas? The 12 v. will run those batteries down in nothing flat and is really designed to run while your TV is towing to/from your destination. My Dometic is only a 2 way and 85Sovereign's is too.

masonair · 11-28-2010, 06:35 PM

I just had the same problem. I have a 2008 International 23 CCD. The Freg is a DOMESTIC 2852. My batteries have been fading faster latetly and as soon as the batteries dropped off the gas is turned off. totally frustating since it defeats the purpose in my opinion. I would hook up to the truck and the gas would fire up instantly. Is there a way to override the electric control mechanism?