Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-22-2012, 06:15 AM   #71
3 Rivet Member
 
jmcarter's Avatar
 
2010 28' International
Richmond Hill , Georgia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by danlehosky
Gene, we live near Seattle and things aren't to bad here. The restrictive building codes, density issues and geographegly
being surrounded by either water or mountians have kept Puget Sound real estate expensive. Anything with a mountain or water view is still 500knand up. Waterfront forget it. We are empty nesters living in a 3000 sf waterfront house on Wollochet Bay (tidal saltwater) with a magnificent view of MT Rainier. Even with all of these plusses I just can't make the call to sell. I don't want to waste my first summer with my new AS dealing with Realtors, openhouses, disclosures, all of the stress of keeping the house impeccable and then having people tromping through looking in my closets and cabinets. Maybe next summer. But this summer is for me and wifey, no kids just us. This economy won't last forever and things will get better. (I hope). Take care and don't let the stress get to ya. I've been asked to be an expert witness when mechanical issues come up in some of these big (wecall them microsoft houses). However I've always declined because of personal liability issues.

Dan
Realize you may be right about the market with waterfront or views but we lived at Port Ludlow and Camano for many years and those markets are absolutely dismal right now. Hope you're right about things improving and can escape the PNW for AZ like most of my old Boeing friends and seems like half of the Canadians. Winters in Seattle are just too dismal for us...not to mention the traffic YUK!
__________________

__________________
jmcarter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2012, 11:37 AM   #72
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10,842
Dan, I think you are making the right decision about not trying to sell this year because enjoying your Airstream is very important. Of course, next year, you'll want to enjoy it even more.

Work on the floor is progressing slowly since we have guests. Once I got to the exterior door, I found a damp spot and the leak is about 4 or 5" rear of the door. There is also a water stain running towards the middle of the trailer. There is neither rot nor mold, just dampness, so the leak is not all that old. I may use duct tape outside to create a temporary seal along the door in the hope that will stop the leak. I have a ceramic heater going inside to keep it warm and dry the dampness. When the weather gets better, I will go on a sealing frenzy around the door and anywhere else that I can find problems. Now I am worried about leaks under the carpet in the front, but I don't want to pull that up.

Meanwhile, I have to figure out how to remove the metal transition strip between the vinyl and carpet. It must be screwed down with the screws buried in the carpet somewhere. I will try a stud finder to locate the screws; it is no good at finding studs, but maybe it can find screws.

The new flooring came yesterday and looks good. I am going to look for a glue that is removable, pressure sensitive and has a wide temperature range (acrylic based glues are better than rubber based for temp variations). Given the limited products available in a big box store, I may have to try flooring stores to see what they have.

I also have to plan the placement of each plank because of the small spaces and to cause the least waste. While others use epoxy paint on the floor and then one or more coats of polyurethane, that seems like overkill to me. The plywood edges are best sealed that way, but that can only happen when the subfloor is removed. If I can keep water from running under the floor, that would be best and 2 coats of exterior polyurethane seem adequate.

Gene
__________________

__________________
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2012, 06:09 PM   #73
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10,842
Between a cold and trying to solve a plumbing problem at home, things have slowed down. Still gathering information for a house sale (same principle when I was working: preparation is everything).

I have the vinyl floor removed except for the bathroom. I will probably leave the vinyl in place there. I bought some removable glue to use for the vinyl planks, but it doesn't have the temperature range I want. Mainly it has to work in the summer to keep the planks in place. But I was talking to a guy in Lowe's about glues and he suggested Velcro—a stroke of genius. I bought enough to use in places along the edges—I don't think I'll need it the whole length of each plank. Velcro glue backing holds through extreme temperatures. It'll add a 1/16" to height, so the floor will be 1/4" at the edges.

The leak I found to the rear of the door is right below the awning brackets and the step light. When water runs down the side of the trailer at the end of the awning, it goes right down onto the light and the 2 brackets. I got some aviation grade Form-a-Gasket to use under the brackets and then will seal the outside with Acryl-R. The Form-a-Gasket can be applied at any temperature and has a range from -65˚ to 400-something˚. That is better the sealants Airstream uses.

There is also a water stain next to the sink peninsula. I can't find the source. We did have a leak from the drain, but I can't find a way it got to the floor and through the vinyl. It may have happened when the trailer was being built. I took out drawers to get a look under the sink cabinet and into the guts. It seems the drain pipe is not properly angled downward—it should be about 1/8" per foot if I remember correctly. This one goes downward, upward, and then down. Maybe I'll fix that, but not now.

Photos will come with time.

Gene
__________________
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2012, 06:58 PM   #74
4 Rivet Member
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Blaine , Washington
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 291
Gene;

Thanks for the update. Now I will worry that we have a leak in the same place by the door.

Oh, well. Until, and if, our floor starts buckling I guess we will just motor on.

John
__________________
Relentless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2012, 08:02 PM   #75
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10,842
John, the same leak could occur at the other end of the awning. Better take your meds.

Gene
__________________
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2012, 06:21 PM   #76
Rivet Master
 
Steelegood's Avatar
 
2005 31' Classic
Cleveland , Tennessee
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,499
Images: 19
Hey Gene:

Is the Karndean flooring a laminate flooring? I'm also guessing it isn't an interlocking floating floor? A friend of ours used a floating interlocking laminate, replacing everything except the bedroom...., about two years ago. He used quarter round to finish edges and after staining that to match, looks great and no problems to date.

I think leaks are the bane of Airstreamers. I have one between the gaucho and dinette on the "passenger side" of the AS, the carpet gets wet every time it rains. I've searched and searched for a possible place for the water to enter, yet since no cabinets, sink or anything else is on that side, I'm getting frustrated trying to figure out where the water is entering. The walls are dry, from the inside anyway, I first thought possibly through the window seals, but to no avail. Ugh!

Terry.
__________________
I know you think you understand what you though I said, but I'm not sure that what you heard is what I actually meant!

"If you don't know where you are going, any road will take you there." Lewis Carroll

AIR #38011
TAC TN-4
NOVA
Steelegood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2012, 12:41 PM   #77
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10,842
Terry, this is a laminate, but not like you may think. It is vinyl with several layers. The top layer is what you see, then there's a middle layer which is the thickest one (and presumably vinyl too) and the bottom layer which looks like a bunch of parallel lines in a sine wave. This looks like rubber (which is attached to a thin layer between the middle one and the rubber) and is made to stick in place. If you stand on this flooring, you cannot move it; if you try to move it from the side with no weight on it, it slides easily.

It is not interlocking. One advantage is you don't have problems lining up cut pieces so there should be less waste. I can put them running in either direction to increase variety. There are only 4 separate designs, but they are cut so few boards are exactly the same. I plan to plan our every board before I put them in since it is a small space and I want to make sure it comes out looking good. I may draw the pattern of the planks on the floor itself.

The interlocking brands we saw were much narrower planks, between 5 and 6". These are 10". Less cutting and I think wider ones look better in the trailer.

I have all the trim. My plan is to use Velcro around the edges and spray the adhesive at some of the joints because i'm sure they will separate as temps change. The separation is not likely to be very much, but they will be obvious since we can see very small differences like that. I will leave some planks without adhesive so I can pick them up easily to check for leaks. The planks with trim over them may not be easy to lift, so I'll put the Velcro where I can lift them; it may not work under the trim. It also has to be where it doesn't lift one part of the vinyl noticably. I'm still figuring this out. The floor has to go under the curbside dinette seat and the subwoofer. This will lock some flooring in place, so no Velcro is needed in that area. I could cut holes out for the seat "legs" (not really legs, but no word comes to mind), but i'm not sure how it would look.

I need to seal the awning mounts first as water keeps getting into the trailer and on the subfloor. The subfloor only has a small wet spot now, but it needs to dry before I seal it. I have thought of drilling out some rivets on the inner skin in that area to let the insulation dry out and see what's in there, but I'm not sure I want to go there.

I'm also trying to figure out how to cut the planks. They are soft enough to use a knife (I have a utility knife, carpet knife and linoleum knife), but knives sometimes refuse to follow the line even with a straight edge clamped to the plank. Most laminates are rigid and easy to cut with a sabre saw with a Formica blade, but these planks are flexible. Nonetheless, creating a jig for this seems the best approach and using the sabre saw. A knife can be used for curves and inside corners. The planks are thick enough for any of the knives to be difficult to use and that's when I make mistakes—pushing hard when tired of it.

The rubber trim for the curved kitchen peninsula is 4" high. I'd like to cut it down to 2" so the size is more proportional with the rest of the trim. Since it is rubber, the color goes all the way through, so I can do that. I need to use an adhesive that sticks at temperature extremes. The glue for this does not. Construction adhesive may be the right one; I have to check the label.

I may be over analyzing this. I'm using materials different from my experiences in a place with different requirements.

As for leaks, Terry, there are a fair number of leak and floor threads going on right now. Some posts exhibit a certain hopelessness—they will always leak. I hope to improve the odds.

Finding time to do this and get the house listed has been very hard lately. Slow, slow, slow. So now that this weekend's guests have left, we are going to take in a movie this afternoon and go out to dinner. Our priorities are good.

Gene
__________________
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2012, 02:13 PM   #78
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 11,153
Images: 1
Thumbs up

Gene,

Do you think this would be helpful in searching for your leaks?

You seem, like me, to love the giz part of the mo's.

I have other uses I can put it to, but need another rationalization to justify the $$$$$.

Bob
__________________
PFC.....

“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
RLC

Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
but I’m the Husband, so we went to Cleveland.
RLC
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2012, 07:33 PM   #79
Vintage Kin
 
slowmover's Avatar
 
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 7,603
Images: 1
Great description of work, Gene. That'll be useful to others. Some pics from that nice new camera of yours will be studied, here.

BobCross, I thought borescopes were expensive (30 years ago). I guess unless we drop that one that any structure, vehicle or craft with plumbing requires one. (Will that justification work?)
__________________
1990 35' Silver Streak Sterling; 9k GVWR.
2004 DODGE Cummins 305/555; 6-manual; 9k GVWR.
Hensley Arrow. 9-cpm solo, 15-cpm towing
Sold: Silver Streak Model 3411
slowmover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2012, 09:27 AM   #80
Rivet Master
 
Steelegood's Avatar
 
2005 31' Classic
Cleveland , Tennessee
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,499
Images: 19
REDNAX beat me to "some pictures would be great". Sounds like you've found a great flooring product for the Airstream. Keep us posted on the project.

Terry.
__________________
I know you think you understand what you though I said, but I'm not sure that what you heard is what I actually meant!

"If you don't know where you are going, any road will take you there." Lewis Carroll

AIR #38011
TAC TN-4
NOVA
Steelegood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2012, 11:53 AM   #81
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10,842
Bob, that was very evil of you to point out the borescope. Now I want one too. $229 isn't really all that much—in 1962 money it would only be $23, but I wouldn't spent it then either. I think you, Red', and Terry should buy one and report to us how good the picture is. It would be good for all of us to have one so we could check to see if our head is where the sun don't shine.

I didn't go through the latest Griot's catalog, so I missed it until now. Maybe I'll leave it open to the page where Barb sits.

I think I do know where the water is coming from. It could also be coming from the step light and I hope I can get it apart. It looks like there is a small slot on the side of the cover that must pry off. It is the kind of slot where the screwdriver inevitably slips and scratches the skin. I should put a piece of tape on the skin and am writing this in the hope I will remember it later.

Bob, you're an auto guy—what do you think of Form-A-Gasket #3 for the awning supports? Is it an evil silicone and does it matter? It is supposed to get into the 50's today, so now is the time to do the supports and light. I can vacuum the floor and possibly seal it with polyurethane today too.

Photos will come.

Gene
__________________
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2012, 01:07 PM   #82
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 11,153
Images: 1
"Bob, you're an auto guy—what do you think of Form-A-Gasket #3 for the awning supports? Is it an evil silicone and does it matter? It is supposed to get into the 50's today, so now is the time to do the supports and light. I can vacuum the floor and possibly seal it with polyurethane today too."

Gene,

Funny you should ask, I ran out and need to get some for the boat motor water pump. Don't see any reason why it wouldn't work fine, 'cept maybe the dark brown color, might be hard to hide.

Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant

Slow-drying, non-hardening brush-top sealant approved for use in aviation as well as automotive applications. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists gasoline, oil and grease.

Suggested Applications: Close-fitting machined surfaces, sealing hoses, solid gaskets

"I didn't go through the latest Griot's catalog, so I missed it until now. Maybe I'll leave it open to the page where Barb sits."

Maybe not such a good idea, she may get the rong idea about just what it is you want to "scope".

Bob
__________________
PFC.....

“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
RLC

Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
but I’m the Husband, so we went to Cleveland.
RLC
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2012, 04:46 PM   #83
2 Rivet Member
 
Decembergal's Avatar
 
1973 Argosy 20
Lusby , Maryland
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 28
Hello Gene,
If this is the same flooring my husband installed in my kitchen, believe it or not, he used a school type paper cutter. The type used for picture frame matting etc. It worked well for him.
I thought it might be worth trying.
I have really enjoyed reading your thread. I look forward to seeing the completed project.
__________________
Decembergal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2012, 07:39 PM   #84
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10,842
I just came in from re-sealing all 4 awning supports. This was the first day over 50˚ this year. A messy job. The Form-A-Gasket may not have been the best sealant for under the supports since once I took them off, I could tell how badly they fit. I figured using two different types of sealant may help. They are installed over a seam and rivets, so they are bound to eventually fail. They used Acryl-R, but didn't coat the entire area and didn't do a very good job with the screws (most of the sealant is on the tips where it does no good). I used Acryl-R around the edges once I got the supports back on and that was really messy. A sloppy job, but keeping water out is more important.

There weren't 3 screws on the bottom supports, but 2 screws and a big rivet. One of the screws on the rear upper support wouldn't tighten and I used a rivet on that. Because I didn't have 3/16" rivets, a 20 minute each way trip to the Hardware store was necessary. I covered all the rivets with sealant too.

I took off the upper support, did that one, put it back together so it would hold the awning up, then did the bottom one. Getting one arm on each side back in place was difficult and I had to lever it so I could get the machine screw through it.

As too often happens, at the end of a job, I loose something. This time is was a cap screw to put the last arm back in place. Fortunately I will be going to Grand Junction tomorrow and will get another one.

When we have another warm, dry day, we will clean off the trailer where we want to add sealant and finish that job. Tomorrow would be a good one if we didn't have to go to GJ.

I put a fan in the trailer to dry out that small section of floor. Next is vacuuming and polyurethane. I thought I would get to that today. Hah! Also have to finish everything for selling the house and actually list it.

Gene
__________________

__________________
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2012 the road kingfisher24 On The Road... 14 01-15-2012 07:37 AM
Road Trips 2011 Gene On The Road... 300 12-08-2011 09:37 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.