Is my tow vehicle compatible with 27FB?

[dkottum]

Our factory weight is also displayed on the Trailer Data Plate, 2012 FC 25, indicating 192# of options over the published weight for the model. On our 2007 FC 20SE the weight was printed on a label on an interior closet door, and was the same as published weight, not accounting for options.

I have not weighed the rig and don't plan to as the truck has enough tow and load capacity. Our Andersen hitch is very light weight.

It is my understanding trailer load should not be "balanced" by moving gear to the far rear/front of the trailer as this could make it less stable than if load was concentrated over the axles. That is why Airstream puts heavy kitchen equipment in the center of the trailer. Also heavy gear at the far rear could put excessive stress on the frame/shell assembly when subjected to roadway conditions (bumps), as it is resting only on the far end of the cantilever.

doug k

[A W Warn]

Doug is correct on not adding weight to the rear. Airstream included a section in my manual, under "Towing-Loading", that specifically says not to use tool boxes, generators, etc behind the axles to balance the load. It goes further to say to place loads low and directly over the axles if possible, or forward of the axles.

Wonder why Airstream placed all of my storage access behind the axles on my trailer?

[Travel Bird]

Hi Wendy! We just purchased a new 2012 International Signature '27FB. We tow with a Ford Expedition with a Hensley hitch. If you have any concerns and need help, contact Andy Thomson of Can-Am RV. I wrote a blog post about them! Good luck in your search. Merry Christmas!

[Gene]

A weight distributing hitch will redistribute tongue weight—
approx. 2/3 to the tow vehicle and 1/3 to the trailer. So take 2/3 of tongue weight and subtract that from tow vehicle payload to get the remaining weight in cargo (including passengers) you can load into the tow vehicle.

I wrote the same thing last July on this thread, but it seems to get ignored.

It is true the factory numbers on tongue wt. are rarely correct. Besides wt. of propane, add in the spare tire.

Gene

[blkmagikca]

Originally Posted by Road Ruler

It is ironic. In Europe they tow non aerodynamic Bambi sized trailers with 4cyl compact cars, no WDH and life is golden.

A trip to Jackson Center OH and you can see the Airstream trailers that are made and shipped over to Europe. You will see first hand what the differences are - they include:
- narrower body
- special triangular reflectors
- surge brakes
- dolly wheel on the jack along with handles to allow you to roll the trailer into a tight parking spot
- hand parking brake on the tongue, so you can lock the wheels

Typically, European trailers have a 50 lb hitch weight, and they do not use any sway control weight distributing hitches. Back in 1981 I bought our first trailer (in Canada) - it was a Thomson and it was manufactured in England. But later on we discovered that the 13-foot trailer which we bought when we were just two adults was too small for two adults, two children and two dogs.

[outbackbob]

Originally Posted by outbackbob

Great advice all around! Awareness and good common sense outweighs the rest.

Happy New Airstream Owners, Bob & Deb

Real numbers are in from the public scale at Harvey Lyman in Walnut Grove, CA:

Actual combined gross vehicle wt. (w/driver 1/3 H2O) CGVW = 11,680
GCWR 2003 Toyota Land Cruiser = 12,400
720 lbs. left for twinkies.....

[crisen]

Originally Posted by outbackbob

Real numbers are in from the public scale at Harvey Lyman in Walnut Grove, CA:

Actual combined gross vehicle wt. (w/driver 1/3 H2O) CGVW = 11,680
GCWR 2003 Toyota Land Cruiser = 12,400
720 lbs. left for twinkies.....

How did the axle weights come out vs the GAWR limits?

[outbackbob]

Trailer and LC connected 12/28/12
Maximums

Actuals

Delta

LC loaded with driver Bob ½ fuel
6,860

6,220

640

LC Curb Wt.
5,390

6,220

830

Trailer w 1/3 H2O, propane over 50%, TV & DVD, no black or grey waste
7,300

5,480

1,820

LC & Trailer
12,400

11,680

720

[crisen]

Originally Posted by outbackbob

Trailer and LC connected 12/28/12
Maximums

Actuals

Delta

LC loaded with driver Bob ½ fuel
6,860

6,220

640

LC Curb Wt.
5,390

6,220

830

Trailer w 1/3 H2O, propane over 50%, TV & DVD, no black or grey waste
7,300

5,480

1,820

LC & Trailer
12,400

11,680

720

Bob,

I am not talking about total vehicle weights. It would be prudent to look at the loaded front and rear axle weights on the tow vehicle and compare them to the limits on your door sticker. The data should be there for the front and rear axles individually. The problem is that while you can be under the gross combined and gross vehicle ratings you can still be overloading the rear axle. This may not change your decisions on suitability but you will know if you are exceeding the limits for the axle and risking decreased life or component failure.

[A W Warn]

You also need to weigh the axles with the weight distribution tensioned and then again without the weight distribution tensioned to see if you are getting the correct weight transfer.

[switz]

A long time ago, the creator from California of the WD style hitch took it to Europe. When the Europeans saw that hitch system and electric brakes, the extremely cheaply built and over priced European trailer folks (based upon my personal recent inspection of units in the UK) did not want US competition which would have destroyed their game plan, so they got WD hitches and electric brakes outlawed over there.

Since they do not have WD hitches or electric brakes in Europe, the European vehicle manufactures have no experience with this equipment and do not design their vehicles to accommodate what is routinely done in the US. Their lawyers just state "do not use WD hitches" and in the case of my Mercedes, the factory (only place the ML model is made in the world is in Alabama) installed hitch will fail if WD equipment is used. Thus the need for my trip to CanAm to have the hitch properly reinforced. The trailer brake wiring loom for the early 2007 models had the connectors in the right rear of the car. Since the driver is in the left front, four wires would have to be run up the right side of the car, over the engine hump and into the footwell of the driver to install a braking control. Three or four months later, Mercedes moved the connector for the brake control to the driver's foot well.

I took my 2007 Mercedes ML 320 CDI to the scales with just me in the car @ 225 pounds and an iPod in the glove box. There was only 145 pounds of weight available on the front axle per the scales. If my wife and I were really huge people, the front axle would be overloaded with nothing else in the car.

Alone, I then took the empty Airstream and car to the scales. The Hensley Arrow put about 120 pounds on the front axle. I then loaded up the fresh water tank and put all the "stuff" on hand into the trailer. The wife and I then, with trailer in tow, went to the scales again. Front axle is overloaded by 55 pounds or less than 2%. The rear axle still has about 200 pounds of spare capacity.

The car just passed 100,000 miles so the extended warranty has expired. These weight numbers will work for us for the time being. The car's weight on the ground exceeds the weight supported by the trailer axles by 600 pounds.

The scales do tell an interesting story. I would recommend everyone that tows expend the $10 per pass to create their own data base for piece of mind.

YMMV

[outbackbob]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

You also need to weigh the axles with the weight distribution tensioned and then again without the weight distribution tensioned to see if you are getting the correct weight transfer.

This is what I was trying to accomplish without disconnecting the trailer:

1. Weigh only the front axle of tow vehicle.
2. Weigh both axels of tow vehicle.
3. Weigh tow vehicle & trailer.
4. Weigh trailer both axles.

The scale master was having a little fit about all this fuss, would this be the correct procedure?

Thanks, Bob

[switz]

The Love's CAT scales have three sections. Typically a large truck pulls on with the front axle in the first area, the back truck axles in the middle area, and the trailer axles in the third area. All three areas print out on the ticket with their individual weights and the total weight of the rig.

To get a true starting point, you would drive the rig to the scales and drop the trailer. Then weigh the TV with no attachments but your typical towing load inside the TV (so the spouse/ companion has to come along too). Now you will have a ticket with front axle, rear axle and total TV weights.

You have probably weighted the tongue weight at home, so bring that number along.

Connect the trailer and set the WD hitch to your initial hitch settings and go over the scales. Get the ticket which now has TV front axle, TV rear axle and the trailer axles plus combined weight. Look at the TV weights to compare to the unhitched weights. In theory, that tongue weight you recorded earlier should be distributed over all three axles.

In a perfect world, there would be 1/3 of the weight on each axle. If the front axle weighs less than or the same as before the trailer was attached, the hitch needs to be really adjusted. If the hitch has bars, then tighten them and make another pass across the scales. Tell the weight master that this is an adjustment weighing, not an initial weigh and the fees will be less or free on the second and multiple passes as you adjust the hitch. Do not overload the front axle past the GAWR. You will have to balance things out to not overload the TV axles if the weights are near maximum for both vehicles.

This will take some time, but when the numbers are where you want them on the weight tickets, take photos or copious notes on the settings so you can get there the next time you hook up the trailer.

YMMV

[A W Warn]

It sounds like you are using a single platform scale. In order to know the tongue weight you must disconnect and weigh the truck separately. You cannot calculate load transfer unless you weigh with WD and then weigh without. In order to get all the information you need you will have to weigh multiple times. If you are using a single platform scale it takes a lot more effort.


First before you go, make sure you are hitched correctly, your trailer is setting level when you are hooked up. If it is not fairly level one trailer axle carries more load than the other.

I went to a Cat Scale, with truck and trailer loaded to go camping. Their scale has three platforms built into one scale: truck front axle, truck rear axle, trailer axles.

Using the directions shown here http://catscale.com/how-to-weigh, I placed the truck steering axle on front scale, truck drive axle on the middle scale, and the trailer axles on the rear scale.

1st - weigh loaded truck and trailer with everything hooked up and weight distribution tensioned.
2nd - weigh loaded truck and trailer with everything hooked up and weight distribution NOT tensioned.
3rd - park the trailer somewhere and weigh the truck only.

I use these to calculate the various loads/weights.

If you do not get correct weight distribution on the first weigh, you may need to adjust the hitch per manufacturer's instructions and re-weigh. (repeat 1st step till you get load transfer adjusted correctly)

Cat Scale operators in my area charge $10 for the
first weigh and $2 for each additional weigh while you are there. It takes me about half hour for three weighs, since the scale master required me to get off of the scale between each weigh, he said to re-calibrate between each.

In addition to this, some people suggest weighing each wheel separately to make sure an individual tire is not overloaded, but I have never felt the need to do that on the trailers I have owned. I do not know where scales are available to do this.

[Ehkthr1]

I have a 2015 GMC Sierra, 285 hp, 11,200 towing weight, truck at 5508 lbs, leaving 5,600 lbs for empty 27' FB.

My truck has trailering package and controller on trailer - it's close but I'd like to try. Suggestions?

Do I really need V8?

[Caffeinated]

Originally Posted by Ehkthr1

I have a 2015 GMC Sierra, 285 hp, 11,200 towing weight, truck at 5508 lbs, leaving 5,600 lbs for empty 27' FB.

My truck has trailering package and controller on trailer - it's close but I'd like to try. Suggestions?

Do I really need V8?

I'm not an expert. I hesitate to give others towing advice. That said, I've been towing travel trailers for over 20 years. I have a 27 ft FC and its considerably over 5600 lbs. last time I weighed it, hooked up to my truck, loaded for camping, just the trailers dual axles on the scales, it read 6500 lbs. I think you need a bigger truck.

Mike

[Alluminati]

Hard to tell from the way you worded your question.

Is 11,200 the listed towing capacity (CGVWR minus the weight of your truck) or the CGVWR (the total weight of both truck and trailer)?

If 11,200 is your towing capacity, then your CGVWR is 16,500

If 11,200 is your CGVWR, then your towing capacity is 5,500

If your towing capacity is only 5,500, never mind the bigger engine, you need a stronger truck.

If the towing capacity is 11,200, your truck is fully capable of towing your trailer without further modification

Again it's hard to answer if we don't know if the 11,200 is the towing capacity or the CGVWR.

[tvketchum]

Get the weight sticker info, and visit www.rvtowcheck.com


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Tom