Visit our Popular Forums

Skater · 08-01-2011, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mrs. Bale

When running the fridge on the road, is there any issue with it not working right because it's not level? I read in the manual for my Dometic that it needs to be level.

The motion of the camper on the road is sufficient to keep it working.

Absorption fridges (which is what is installed in most campers) have no moving parts and rely on gravity to pull the refrigerant back to the bottom of the coils, where it is re-warmed. This is why the fridge must be level if the camper is sitting still. If the camper is moving, the motion will be enough.

ROBERT CROSS · 08-01-2011, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mrs. Bale

When running the fridge on the road, is there any issue with it not working right because it's not level? I read in the manual for my Dometic that it needs to be level.

No....it can sometimes even help by keeping a vapor lock from happening.

When the fridge is not level for a longer period the ammonia can pool at the low spot causing an air bubble which keeps the fluid from circulating thru the coils.

You do have to check frequently to make sure the flame hasn't gone out.

Bob

Mrs. Bale · 08-01-2011, 06:35 PM

Thank you Bob and Skater. Now my wine will be chilled when we get to the camp ground!

ROBERT CROSS · 08-01-2011, 06:53 PM

CHEERS

Pahaska · 08-01-2011, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

You do have to check frequently to make sure the flame hasn't gone out.
Bob

Most recent refrigerators will automatically relight if the flame is blown out by a passing semi or sudden crosswind. The exception is any refrigerator that is lighted by a spark-generating push button such as the one on my 2003 International or some of my older trailers.

I temporarily hooked a monitor to the spark generator and did not ever record a flame blowout while it was in place.

ROBERT CROSS · 08-01-2011, 08:07 PM

Automatically...... right....if the automatiker is working... ask me how I know.

jr6715 · 08-02-2011, 01:44 PM

get a inverter run it when you driving. 30.00 for small one

Ariz-Pacer · 08-25-2011, 02:35 PM

As far as keeping the propane powered refrigerators running while refueling the thing to be considered is the "classified" area around gasoline pumps.
The classified electrical area (No sparking) is 18" above grade level as gasoline vapors are heavier than air and will pool on the ground.

I don't know where your refrigerator pilots are located on your Airstreams but on my Pacer it located about 3 feet from the ground and well out of the classified area to provide a source of ignition.

AZP

Mrs. Bale · 08-25-2011, 05:29 PM

Thanks Arizona-Pacer. I'm sure mine is higher than 18 inches. Good to know.

s1000pre · 09-08-2020, 08:09 AM

How long will the propane and battery last running the refrigerator 24/7 without shore power? I have 2 brand new Interstate 80amp hr. batts. Just talking 7.5 cu. Dometic refrigerator, no lights, TV's, etc...

urnmor · 09-08-2020, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1000pre

How long will the propane and battery last running the refrigerator 24/7 without shore power? I have 2 brand new Interstate 80amp hr. batts. Just talking 7.5 cu. Dometic refrigerator, no lights, TV's, etc...

I believe the propane runs independently from the batteries so there should not be any impact on the batteries Also unless it is extremely hot you can always turn off the refrigerator as it will maintain it coolness for a few hours as long you do not open it to much

s1000pre · 09-08-2020, 08:36 AM

I think the controller still uses the batteries to operate when running off propane

Gene · 09-08-2020, 11:40 AM

The batteries are used to ignite the burner for propane when the thermostat calls for more cold. The igniter uses very, very little power and assuming you are not using much else, the fridge could run for a very long time. While driving you are charging the batteries a bit, but any decent battery should give you no problems. If you run power sucking things like the furnace and and especially an inverter to use the microwave or something else like that, then after a day or two, you could have issues. With a zapper, a lot less than a day.

If no power to the fridge, or the igniter won't light, keep the door closed and it will stay cold for a day or so, but that depends on how it is outside and inside. Trailers can get very hot inside in summer if air isn't circulated.

The sensors that tell you water levels and battery capacity are notoriously inaccurate. There are plenty of devices that can tell you battery capacity that are more accurate and can be found online or in RV stores.

**DKB_SATX** · 09-08-2020, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1000pre

How long will the propane and battery last running the refrigerator 24/7 without shore power? I have 2 brand new Interstate 80amp hr. batts. Just talking 7.5 cu. Dometic refrigerator, no lights, TV's, etc...

If you want to really test that, you should disconnect the inverter leads from the batteries... the idle load from the inverter is probably close to what the refrigerator draws to keep the gas valve open.

The 12v requirement for the fridge is probably around 2A when the gas valve is open, around 0.1a otherwise, UNLESS yours is a model with the unswitched chassis heater for moisture control (mine is) then it'll draw nearly an additional amp anytime it's turned on. I rigged a switch inline for boondocking so I don't have to unplug that heater, I can just open the outer fridge door and flip the toggle.

As for propane, you should be able to run for a month or two on 2 30-lb tanks if you're not using propane for anything else. You'll run down the batteries long before you run out of propane.