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Old 08-04-2009, 02:53 PM   #21
Restorations done right
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1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
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where are these frame photos? I am only finding the four exterior shots on the members photo section.
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Old 08-04-2009, 03:19 PM   #22
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Frank, there are three pages of pics in the member photos section. You have to scroll down, and you'll see about 8 per page.
There are pics of another one similar to this on sierra trailer restorations website. They are calling it a Clipper. It's shorter than this one. http://www.sierratrailerrestoration....r-Sale-SS.html
This is a really cool trailer!
Rich
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Old 08-04-2009, 04:20 PM   #23
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
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Makes me feel better

When I saw that monstrosity for sale on Sierra site it made me feel better about mine.
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:26 PM   #24
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Here a site that restored a 47 CW.
Maybe this will help....

1947 Curtis Wright
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:41 PM   #25
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Yeah!!!

Now thats what we are talking about!!!! A great one!
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:08 PM   #26
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More photos!

http://www.airforums.com/photos/brow...page=36&c=3400

More photos have been uploaded in our file called '48 CW dismantle and detail photos.

Wow - what we didn't know before!!! Is ignorance bliss? We picked up key items to look for from all of your suggestions and thoughts and when I finally got good light outside... Lot's of things we didn't "see" when we bought this TT. Check out the variety of rivets, screws and such. Many things are still perplexing, but there definitely was some handy-man at home type of work going on. Note there isn't even any belly pan between the wheels, it's fiberboard bolted to the frame.

That frame is still bothersome, because if it was a replacement, the entire bottom skin is not. The sections in the front and back still have the original rivets, but then there is "doctoring" the aluminum when it was "reassembled." We look forward to your thoughts on this.

You can definitely see the deterioration of the aluminum cross bars in the frame, but the steel only has surface rust. If you look close, there is quite a bit of wood framing in the center going towards the front of the trailer. There is even wood underneath the steel frame "spacing" it between the belly? That is found both in the front and the back areas.

The last photo shows the text we have found on the aluminum. CLAD 24 S-T, AN-A-13. It's in several places, both the underbelly and the outer skin (you can see it where they cut the hole for the old heater.)

Were the windows on the front and back ends put on with screws? All four of these windows have screws as can be seen in the photos. I'm going back to check out those photos you all have posted and sent links to.

THANKS for all the good input!

Tina and Mike
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:31 PM   #27
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Melody Ranch,

Thanks for your info on the CW! Yours looks awesome. Someday... maybe we'll get there.

As we were studying the trailer again tonight, we noticed on the back there are four holes in a square and a larger hole for a wire in the back end. It looks like it could have had a similar tail light and license plate holder that yours does in the photos. Do you think that was original? I'll try to attach it like you did your photos... if it doesn't work I'll add it to the gallery.

Thanks!
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:21 PM   #28
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Keep at it...

Your front and rear windows are installed with screws. That is correct. The big problem with those windows is the inside reinforcement is a thin plywood and it allowed water to pass thru. The wood then rots and water leaks flood the floor areas at both ends...in your case (and mine) the floor is gone.
The open space between the wheels is standard too. I did cover that space on mine after I put on a new axle. I will bet you had a very similar tail light to mine....standard again. Those you have now should be used as boat anchors at the marina.
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Old 08-06-2009, 11:14 AM   #29
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Was there a determination if your unit is a CW or a SS?

Also with the frame, it could originally been a pipe frame.
Wood used as framing is a no no in aircraft constructed trailers.

You will enjoy this challenge, the results will be worth the expense.

Enjoy
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Winston Salem, NC
WBCCI 5218,
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1967 Overlander International.
1979 Avion 30ft rear bath
TV's 88 Chevy Suburban 454, 3:42, TH400
95 Cadillac FW Brougham, LT1,3:42, 7k tow pk.
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Old 08-07-2009, 05:46 AM   #30
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Hi Greg,
No, there hasn't been a determination of CW or SS. It's got signs of both and so far no clear determining factors but a mix.

Just a tiny bit of insulation left to scoop out then removing of the wood PO thought was a good idea and an overall review of what's going to need replaced and repaired to make sure the frame is ready for a new floor ...plus lot of other stuff too I'm sure. Mike seems to know what needs to be done, I'm just making generalizations. There could be 50 steps before the floor is put down! :-]

Tina
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Old 08-17-2009, 12:34 PM   #31
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Leaked like a sieve!!!!!

First big rain since we brought the trailer home... Mike went out to investigate and see if there were any leaks.

1. Every window leaks including front and back plexiglass windows
2. Both doors leak
3. No dripping coming in the roof vents... does that mean it's running down between the inner and outer skin??????

This project is expanding and I've been getting that sinking feeling in my stomach. Have we just taken on too much?

So, obviously waterproofing is #1 priority. The vents in the roof are close to being shot, mechanisms missing and lids are entirely tarred and bent up. We've been scraping off tar to see if they are salvageable and it doesn't look good. Replacement vents are $47 each, should we not even fight what we have and go for the new ones? Sizes are right and they're silver.

If water is leaking between the skins, does that mean all the inner skin needs to come off and be replaced along with the insulation? (Afraid of this answer.) Is there mold growing in there?

And Mike's checking the forums as it seems everyone has a different opinion regarding seam sealers and what is best. We've got to order that asap.

Tina
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Old 08-17-2009, 12:42 PM   #32
Restorations done right
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Sorry to say, but that trailer will need a serious tear down before she is ready to build back up. I would encourage you to not only remove all the interior skin, but also consider taking the windows and doors off and starting that fresh with it. It is all simple time consuming stuff and you can handle it. When you are done you will have the biggest head turner around.
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:28 PM   #33
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Tina,Those skins need to some out for several reasons including floor replacment and seam sealing. If you have time tomorrow I can stop by during the day to look at a few things. I can explain how to rebuild those windows, but it will be easier to show you once they are removed.Take a look at my streaming soldiers blog and you will see I have my trailer about as torn up as it can get. Sure I feel like it is too far gone a lot of the time, but with some good friends help and the forums you will get through it.....promise.Steve
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Old 08-17-2009, 03:01 PM   #34
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
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Just enjoy the ride

Frank is absolutely right. You have a great trailer. You do have a lot of work ahead but just accept that as part of the fun. Plan the whole project, do your interior skins and are simple....unlike Airstreams, the Curtis (I think yours is mostly Curtis) skins are screwed on...with a few rivets maybe. Get rid of the old insulation everywhere. Do the floor with consideration for underfloor needs and future mods eventualities ....wiring, insulation, plumbing, etc. The windows and screens are a pain....I have recent experience here...stay in touch. Then its clean, clean, clean. Reinsulate and wiring....again, plan ahead. Put the fans in....replace the old vents. If you want originals...I have two, essentially mint ones I will get to you....but I recommend new 14 inch replacements. (Note...the 14 inch frames have to be built...not hard.) I like the ones from Steve at Vintage. Plan for AC installation of your choice now too. Eventhough I won't be using rooftop AC I wired mine up...just in case. Sealing the seams, I feel, should be done after polish...use any of the recommended products you will see mentioned here. They all have their own benefits.
The door seals are a pain also. Mine are the rivet between inner and outer door panels which means complete disassembly to replace. Go slow and ask questions...
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Old 08-17-2009, 09:14 PM   #35
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Thanks~

Thank for all the kind words and encouragement! It helps to know others can relate and give experienced advice!

First I must say..."oh, I was soooo naive!" ...This was going to be easy... new floor, replace a window, remove the tar off the vents... Ha ha ha. Now the reality of the project begins. (I think Mike was humoring me all along!)

So, after dinner tonight we went out to check out the realism of removing the inner skin. Some panels look like they've been off before... Started underneath the back windows. It has been off before, I think when they put those lovely "boat anchor" tail lights on. Yuck, so, not only did critters live in the floor, they were in the walls! Actually we were surprised just how easy that came off. So now we move the the curbside under the windows. This is a bit more of a challenge because PO has replace the aluminum with sheet metal and rivets - heavy and time consuming drilling out, but not really difficult. So we got a few more pieces off, PO was very "creative" in the shapes of sheet metal he added.

Melody Ranch - Ours resembles your photos alot with a few of those squares filled with the old insulation, PO also added paperbacked insulation in spots. Also the 1/4 plywood you noted in the back windows is fiberboard in ours and pretty wet and rotten. There are a few spots where the aluminum at the bottom is showing the white powdery residue. So we've been taking it out and numbering/marking pieces. We probably removed 15%. Mosquitos and fiberglass chased us out.

We definitely are going to have to spend time thinking of the details. I think Mike's going to keep working on this with me... Maybe he says .

So, that means Spring 2010 debut may be Fall 2010 debut...

Thanks again, I will be sure to keep posting -
Tina
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Old 08-20-2009, 12:28 PM   #36
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We're in!

After serious discussion, soul searching and detailing out what’s “really” going to need to be done… we’ve decided we’re in for the long haul! Woo-hoo! The rose colored glasses are off and the “right way” to do everything is our path (not that Mike won’t try to take a short cut or two… I have to watch him on that!)

So, last night I learned how to drill out rivets! We’ve taken off several interior skin panels and are labeling them for putting it back together. Is it possible to get them “sandblasted” to remove the multilayers of paint? Is that even cost efficient? Some aren’t even aluminum, they are some sort of steel put on by PO. A magnet sticks to it.

There are a lot of sections where there is no insulation at all.

Under the d-shaped windows at the front and back there is a section 5-6” wide that goes around the base of the curved part and meets the floor. Is that typical? We thought at first it was part of a PO renovation, but now not so sure. It is attached with screws.

Moving forward on getting the leaks stopped. We’re going to go ahead with new vents and put in at least one Fan-tastic fan vent. MR – like the suggestion about wiring for A/C now, but not putting in. We’ve discussed that and it’s probably what we’re going to do too.

We need to cover up all those holes from the lovely lights that were added by PO. There were those crazy lights above the windows and the boat anchors. They are gone and many holes are left. Maybe a silly question, but is there a “hole filler” or is riveting a patch over the only way of sealing short of replacing a panel?

MR – could you send a photo of the trailer lights/reflectors you are using? We’d love to see what’s what so we can get something similar to what may actually have been there. We do have some really old "outline" markings we are checking about matching.

We aren't however going to restore to original. We're going to restore/renovate to some style that looks good, but would not have been original. We're drawing plans and trying to "balance" loads and place tanks. The bizzare placement of windows is creating some unique floor plan ideas!

Keep cheering from the sidelines and we’ll keep posting questions and photos! It’s my goal over the weekend to get more photos up. Soldiermedic, we're calling soon, our schedules just have been a bit hectic lately, tomorrow late afternoon and this weekend looks good if you have time.

THANKS to all.

Tina
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Old 08-20-2009, 01:20 PM   #37
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Hey Tina,

I am heading to TN on vacation tomorrow evening, but I can meet up with ya'll when I return. I am free tomorrow during the day though if you have a moment since I'll be down off Hampton at 730 AM. Please contact me through the number on my website below in the links. I can be reached whenever you have a question, or need a tool.

Steve
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Old 08-20-2009, 01:27 PM   #38
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Very cool; glad the pups are keeping the old time coaches alive.
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:07 PM   #39
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it all sounds good....familiar too

Here are some more pics Tina. By the way....take every kind of picture you can as you take things apart. From many angles...all items. You will be suprised at how many times you will refer back to them for guidance.
The white stuff under the end windows...corrosion like I told you about.
The short panel you mentioned is just a panel. I thought it was a good idea because it gives you access to the wall /floor perimeter. Don't rivet it back on....use stainless screws. (I bet your was screwed on anyway...originally)

By the way, as you go back together...use only stainless hardware. You will never regret that move.

I will take a picture of my tail light. It's not close to yours. I think you will have to innovate.

Do not discount replacing the interior wall aluminum panels with new. You can buy the material and cut it to match you old (or modify to your new spec plans) Consider labor and end result....you may be way ahead that way. You may have a CCD type interior then. The interior end caps do polish up real nice and would look great with new panels on the sides and top.

Take Steve up on his offer to visit. You will have a good friend there.
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Old 09-01-2009, 05:13 PM   #40
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A picture is worth a thousand words...

but do they really say anything?

We got all excited because we started stripping paint off the tongue to see if there was any kind of ID number or such as we've come to a whole new ball of wax (titling!) But we won't go there.

We found a number that we thought was 3130. But upon taking a photo of it, we found the camara saw what we couldn't.

81805
Now - does that mean anything? Maybe not. But we sure got excited!

Tina
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