2017 Basecamp Issues

[gouchodon]

Originally Posted by Gail Miller

Here is the service bulletin on the refrigerator. AS sent it to me when I requested it over the phone, so I assume it's okay to share it. My thoughts are that the drain, that goes out the front vent, should go out the floor. It appears to be a short drain to me which makes it easy for water to back up in the hose instead of going outside. Starting at step 10 (routing a channel in the floor) is just stupid to me! Take a look and give us your thoughts. At least this will tell you how to take the refrigerator out. I have no idea where the water from the refrigerator is coming from, my GUESS is the drain, that probably should be routed through the floor. I don't recall this drain being mentioned in the service bulletin, when I emailed and asked about that I was told there was only the service bulletin on the refrigerator .... ???? .... how to route the drain should have been part of the Service Bulletin repair.

Wow... why not just make an appropriate metal "floor pan" under the fridge that goes to the preexisting drain? We're supposed to believe that a routed channel in plywood smeared with goo is gonna last???? I can see some metal fabrication in my future after warrantee is up.

[MrKenmore]

I had seen the service bulletin before the work was done on my BC. I was quite surprised as well. It does not appear to be a very professional correction to the problem. While it may achieve the goal, I do not feel it is the proper way to provide the remedy. As mentioned above, a metal drain pan would have been much more appropriate. I wish it was a little easier to get to the area as I would like to inspect the workmanship. It appears that when you remove the front vents, you know need to install a new seal upon re-installation. I do not have any leaks from the fridge area or evidence of prior leaks (before the service bulletin was done).

[JRAir]

Thanks to all for the comments and the Service Bulletin. Dealer is 250 miles away and not a very knowledgeable dealer. Do not like just taking a router to plywood for water drainage solution!

[AlinCal]

Been following this and I think that "repair" is something Bubba would do under the Pepper tree out back. That is not something a manufacture of anything should publish as a fix to a problem, should get them out of the warranty period though and then it just become another Airstream that the owner needs the replace subfloor on.
And the tape on the door? anytime you need access you have to cut the film and replace with new? Must be a better way of dealing with that even if it requires a new door design.

[Gail Miller]

Originally Posted by gouchodon

Wow... why not just make an appropriate metal "floor pan" under the fridge that goes to the preexisting drain? We're supposed to believe that a routed channel in plywood smeared with goo is gonna last???? I can see some metal fabrication in my future after warrantee is up.

My thoughts too. I'm a woodworker and routing plywood and HOPING some service tech smears that goo correctly?? ... I just don't see that happening and/or helping!!!

[Gail Miller]

Originally Posted by AlinCal

Been following this and I think that "repair" is something Bubba would do under the Pepper tree out back. That is not something a manufacture of anything should publish as a fix to a problem, should get them out of the warranty period though and then it just become another Airstream that the owner needs the replace subfloor on.
And the tape on the door? anytime you need access you have to cut the film and replace with new? Must be a better way of dealing with that even if it requires a new door design.

They expect water to channel down that routed groove?!?!?! I'm just not sure I'm going to authorize that. I'd rather pay my local (non AS) camper dealership, I know the service manager, to pull the refrigerator, and look at it. With the service bulletin, they would have the instructions. The drain needs to NOT go out the front!!! That's just all stupid, if you ask me. I'd rather pay someone to do it right than have to replace the floor after the warranty period, because AS didn't correct the problem sufficiently. I did buy an extended 10 year warranty ... wonder what all isn't covered under that :-)

[gouchodon]

We just made the trek to our dealer yesterday to drop off the basecamp for fridge tsb, multiple door issues etc. Flooring has bubbled. Unsure of how bad the damage to the subfloor is. Time will tell I guess. I will say that I have great faith in the service dept so I'm not too worried. In a way I'm kind of glad to get all this taken care of at once. Basecamp has had a tough roll out for sure but I still believe it's a great product with a great design. Growing pains are tough but I bet it all works out. Still think I'll undertake building a proper floorpan when warrantee is up.

[FricknFrack]

Originally Posted by gouchodon

We just made the trek to our dealer yesterday to drop off the basecamp for fridge tsb, multiple door issues etc. Flooring has bubbled. Unsure of how bad the damage to the subfloor is. Time will tell I guess. I will say that I have great faith in the service dept so I'm not too worried. In a way I'm kind of glad to get all this taken care of at once. Basecamp has had a tough roll out for sure but I still believe it's a great product with a great design. Growing pains are tough but I bet it all works out. Still think I'll undertake building a proper floorpan when warrantee is up.

Just got ours back from all that work. Chose to leave it there for the 6 weeks it took as soon as I got the axle notice because I could def see where the tires were hitting the wheel well from our 2000mi trek from east coast to Utah. Our first trip with the B52 to southern UT this weekend! 🤞🤞

[gouchodon]

Originally Posted by FricknFrack

Just got ours back from all that work. Chose to leave it there for the 6 weeks it took as soon as I got the axle notice because I could def see where the tires were hitting the wheel well from our 2000mi trek from east coast to Utah. Our first trip with the B52 to southern UT this weekend! 🤞🤞

Good luck! Keep us posted

[4WetPaws]

I am happy to report that I am enjoying my Basecamp now that many of the original issues have been resolved. I would like to say a HUGE thank you to Airstream Adventures Northwest for their awesome support and customer service. Finally have everything sorted out and I'm off enjoying some incredible adventures. I have towed in torrential rain and not a drop of water anywhere.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by 4WetPaws

I am happy to report that I am enjoying my Basecamp now that many of the original issues have been resolved. I would like to say a HUGE thank you to Airstream Adventures Northwest for their awesome support and customer service. Finally have everything sorted out and I'm off enjoying some incredible adventures. I have towed in torrential rain and not a drop of water anywhere.

Awesome to hear!!! You have been patient. Hope you have a great summer of camping in the Basecamp.

[FricknFrack]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Awesome to hear!!! You have been patient. Hope you have a great summer of camping in the Basecamp.

Just back from our first trip post-recall repairs n very happy to report we had an amazing weekend down at Kodachrome Basin in Southern UT! Boondocked the entire weekend at the state park and everything worked perfectly. Big shout out to Airstream Utah for getting us fixed up and back on the road! Great family-run business and Dennis the owner is super nice!

[4WetPaws]

Originally Posted by FricknFrack

Just back from our first trip post-recall repairs n very happy to report we had an amazing weekend down at Kodachrome Basin in Southern UT! Boondocked the entire weekend at the state park and everything worked perfectly. Big shout out to Airstream Utah for getting us fixed up and back on the road! Great family-run business and Dennis the owner is super nice! Attachment 287501

FricknFrack,

Glad to hear you are finally getting to enjoy your BC as well. I notice that you are towing with a Range Rover Sport… me, too. What is your set-up for a brake controller? I am using a Prodigy RF wireless brake controller, but I am having difficulty pairing once I disconnect the trailer from my tow vehicle. Any suggestions?

Cheers!
Katherine

[nwcamper]

After our second outing, since all recall and other work completed, I noticed that the wheel well arch had worn through before the recall work was done. Will be getting a service appointment to have it taken care of. You can tell if yours has worn through by looking back along the wheel well housing in the door side seat compartment. If you can see any light, it has likely worn through. Seems like it will be a quick fix, but we'll see. I'll report after the work is done. No other issues so far, I'm liking the combined grey/black water tank set up, very easy to keep clean.

[badgeruw]

Originally Posted by 4WetPaws

FricknFrack,



Glad to hear you are finally getting to enjoy your BC as well. I notice that you are towing with a Range Rover Sport… me, too. What is your set-up for a brake controller? I am using a Prodigy RF wireless brake controller, but I am having difficulty pairing once I disconnect the trailer from my tow vehicle. Any suggestions?



Cheers!

Katherine

Hi Katherine,

We tow ours with a Land Rover LR4 and I'm happy to tell you what I did which is working perfectly. I bought two components from Atlantic British which is an online seller of Land Rover aftermarket products. They're great! I bought item# ETBCA which is the electric brake controller, and item# VPLAT0013ABP which is the 7-way trailer wiring harness. (That part is for the LR4 but they sell a similar harness for the Range Rover Sport which I think is item# YWJ500170ABP.) Both I found SUPER easy to install. The Rover has a wiring receptacle right under the dash above the break pedal which the controller plugs right in to. No patching or running wires. The receptacle is specifically designed for an electric break controller. As for the 7-way trailer wiring harness, same thing. It plugs right into a wiring receptacle in the rear of the vehicle which is behind a panel. It runs down through the bottom of the vehicle and fits into your hitch area to deliver the brake power, lights, etc. to the trailer. I found this very easy to install too. Atlantic British has videos to help walk you through it. Couldn't be happier! Lastly, as you may know since the Basecamp has LED lights there's not much electrical resistance so cars' computers can think the lights are burnt out (thus displaying a warning light) and/or the trailer lights will flicker. To stop this I got a simple adapter from eTrailer.com. It's item# C57003. It says it's for VW, Audi and Porsche, but it works with all sorts of vehicles. I use it with the Rover and my Jeep Wrangler. Hope this helps!

Erik

[randsfl]

just got back over 12,000 miles 16 states 52 nights - wheel/axle issue seems ok - refrig drain ok BUT back door still major issue

still leaks and doesn't shut completely (probable cause of leak) - i would say that i think that the locking rod isn't long enough - it doesn't secure top of door - big problem when it rains (i have had door replaced once) - it may be as easy as a longer rod in door - an aside since base campers are off the road type - the fact that the door isn't sealed completely around - you get lots of dust inside when traveling back/dirt/gravel roads - that will not be fixed by locking problem being resolved - the door jam needs a complete seal not just the top of door - also, the seals that exist work there way loose and need to be repeatedly snugged back in

for now the only fix maybe duck taping plastic over top half of door - at least it will look retro like a 50 year old model

looking for feedback

ps - we had it in dealer twice and were in Jackson Center for 2 days of repair - except for the floor and bed becoming flooded during storms - we have enjoyed our journeys

[interstateflyer]

Hopefully Airstream will bring out a much improved and corrected version of the Basecamp next year.

[4WetPaws]

Originally Posted by badgeruw

Hi Katherine,

We tow ours with a Land Rover LR4 and I'm happy to tell you what I did which is working perfectly. I bought two components from Atlantic British which is an online seller of Land Rover aftermarket products. They're great! I bought item# ETBCA which is the electric brake controller, and item# VPLAT0013ABP which is the 7-way trailer wiring harness. (That part is for the LR4 but they sell a similar harness for the Range Rover Sport which I think is item# YWJ500170ABP.) Both I found SUPER easy to install. The Rover has a wiring receptacle right under the dash above the break pedal which the controller plugs right in to. No patching or running wires. The receptacle is specifically designed for an electric break controller. As for the 7-way trailer wiring harness, same thing. It plugs right into a wiring receptacle in the rear of the vehicle which is behind a panel. It runs down through the bottom of the vehicle and fits into your hitch area to deliver the brake power, lights, etc. to the trailer. I found this very easy to install too. Atlantic British has videos to help walk you through it. Couldn't be happier! Lastly, as you may know since the Basecamp has LED lights there's not much electrical resistance so cars' computers can think the lights are burnt out (thus displaying a warning light) and/or the trailer lights will flicker. To stop this I got a simple adapter from eTrailer.com. It's item# C57003. It says it's for VW, Audi and Porsche, but it works with all sorts of vehicles. I use it with the Rover and my Jeep Wrangler. Hope this helps!

Erik

Thanks, Erik!!! I will ask my Land Rover dealership as I am not mechanically-inclined at all. It has been an ordeal to say the least.

[4streams]

Originally Posted by randsfl

just got back over 12,000 miles 16 states 52 nights - wheel/axle issue seems ok - refrig drain ok BUT back door still major issue

still leaks and doesn't shut completely (probable cause of leak) - i would say that i think that the locking rod isn't long enough - it doesn't secure top of door - big problem when it rains (i have had door replaced once) - it may be as easy as a longer rod in door - an aside since base campers are off the road type - the fact that the door isn't sealed completely around - you get lots of dust inside when traveling back/dirt/gravel roads - that will not be fixed by locking problem being resolved - the door jam needs a complete seal not just the top of door - also, the seals that exist work there way loose and need to be repeatedly snugged back in

for now the only fix maybe duck taping plastic over top half of door - at least it will look retro like a 50 year old model

looking for feedback

ps - we had it in dealer twice and were in Jackson Center for 2 days of repair - except for the floor and bed becoming flooded during storms - we have enjoyed our journeys

I know Airstream has made some running changes, you may want to ask them if they have done that with the door frame, seals and handle/lock assembly.

Mine was manufactured in late April and the rear door has three seals. One is at the outer edge of the door on the trailer, the other two are in the jam as in steps inward. The inner most one is on lip of the jamb and can be pulled off easily, which sounds like what you mentioned. All three go around the entire door frame. I actually find both doors to seal more tightly than my past Airstreams and neither have leaked.

Hope that provides some useful info.

[Gail Miller]

Originally Posted by 4streams

I know Airstream has made some running changes, you may want to ask them if they have done that with the door frame, seals and handle/lock assembly.

Mine was manufactured in late April and the rear door has three seals. One is at the outer edge of the door on the trailer, the other two are in the jam as in steps inward. The inner most one is on lip of the jamb and can be pulled off easily, which sounds like what you mentioned. All three go around the entire door frame. I actually find both doors to seal more tightly than my past Airstreams and neither have leaked.

Hope that provides some useful info.

I just went out and looked at my rear door seals. I have two inner, full seals, but the outer seal just goes over the top and down a few inches. Yes there is some dust inside the door frame. 4streams: Your outer seal goes all the way around your door? Also, the seal on the inside frame can easily be pulled way. Does than need to be glued into place??