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Old 12-18-2011, 06:43 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Aerowood

While I hear of people doing this all the time it does have a tendency to stretch the aluminum, Drilling is still the best option.
Thanks for the info,what's your opinion on the solid rivets?drill or chisel the head off.
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:58 PM   #44
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this is learning process is getting more and more interesting every day.
Now: What is the best source for buying Olympic Rivets? Don't really want to pay over $20 for just 100 of them. But if there is no other choice...
I hear you on the price but unfortunately you won't be in luck UNLESS you are willing to cough up the dough for an order of 10,000 rivets then its cheap per rivet ($0.06/rivet up here in the frozen north) but still expensive as heck over all. If you have fellow AS owners near you it could be lucrative to join forces.

Vintage trailer supply is the cheapest I could find per 100.

I must admit, if you are looking for a nice finish shaved Olympics are awesome. Just take some time and practice, its not hard to master BUT complacency will give you swirly heads...I speak from limited experience.
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:46 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by desertair27 View Post
Thanks for the info,what's your opinion on the solid rivets?drill or chisel the head off.
Unless you are fond of elongated holes, I'd drill them. With a chisel, it's faster but you knock the rivet sideways with significant force and the holes will elongate especially with thin skins or if you aren't careful you could damage the skin surface with the chisel. Much safer to drill.....Phil.
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:54 PM   #46
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Thanks for the info,what's your opinion on the solid rivets?drill or chisel the head off.
Drilling them out is always better
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:26 PM   #47
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So a 1/8 drill bit to drill them out?
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:44 PM   #48
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As has been said only a few posts up: "The Airstream factory specs a #21 drill bit for the Olympics."
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:07 PM   #49
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bite size

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As has been said only a few posts up: "The Airstream factory specs a #21 drill bit for the Olympics."
Hi Aage.
Saw the post and the #21 is the way to go for later placing the Olympic rivets.
Just also saw other posts stating to use the 1/8 to drill the original rivets out so we just want to get it clear since is the first time dealing with rivets.
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:51 PM   #50
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As has been said only a few posts up: "The Airstream factory specs a #21 drill bit for the Olympics."
... however the manufacture of the actual rivet specs #20. Maybe we need a #20.5 so both the manufacturer of the product and the end user can agree on how it is to be used correctly.
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:31 PM   #51
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Several thoughts......Measured one of my olympic rivets, its .151" as opposed to a MS20470AD5 (5/32 solid rivet) which is .157" which will explain why I can use a #22 drill bit. One reason I want the hole to be as tight as possible is to prevent any movement of the parts riveted because olympic rivet shanks do not expand as they are installed unlike solid rivets and Cherry max rivets ( and you thought olympics were expensive!!!!).When I remove olympics, I usually try to punch out the stem with a pin punch (3/32 works I think) and then drill it out with the appropriate size bit. It will follow the hole accurately if the stem is gone. For solid rivets, first, take a sharp center punch and tap a dimple in the center of the head, then drill a hole (5/32 for a 5/32 rivet) just down to skin level. Then pop the head off with a LIGHT tap with a chisel then drill the rest of the rivet out. Hope this is a help......Phil.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:27 PM   #52
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Talking gotta love rivets

i would never tap the crown of a rivet with a punch to make a dimple in it to start the drill bit and stop it from walking.

i use a small sharp edged file to file two grooves in an x pattern and drill in the x marks the center spot.

sometimes just filing the rounded top of a rivet to flatten the target is good enough to drill the center.

i do not tap on a rivet with a punch 'cause i do not want to move the metal under that said rivet causing it to stress.

my favorite bit is the sharpest and closest to the rivet size....~usually the one ~ 1/8" with the previously drilled remainders of the past rivets on it.

sold my starrett micrometer years ago.

i come close and enjoy camping....
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:34 PM   #53
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Surefire method of drilling out solid rivets...works every time:
http://www.donsbushcaddy.com/sitebui...olidRivets.pdf
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:03 PM   #54
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I'm with Don, this works great.

Removing Solid Rivets - Matronics
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:07 PM   #55
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For those who want to take the guesswork out of removal, Aircraft Tool Supply has a nifty rivet removal kit for $40.00 or so. (p/n 1341A) Looks like it would work.....Phil.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:24 PM   #56
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For those who want to take the guesswork out of removal, Aircraft Tool Supply has a nifty rivet removal kit for $40.00 or so. (p/n 1341A) Looks like it would work.....Phil.

It does work ....sort of. The drill bits are great but I ended up chucking them into my normal drill instead. After drilling a hundred or so rivets you get the feel of it and it's no biggie. The trouble with this tool is that it obscures the view of how the drill is entering the rivet. If the rivet is less than pristine sometimes you have to tweek the entry. And you have to take the tool apart to get the rivet parts that remain on the drill.

Takes way too long when I can slip a normal drill bit into the claw of a hammer, reverse and take a bunch of the rivet remains off in seconds.

I only used this tool on pop rivets and it wasn't worth it...I can't imagine using it if you wanted to change the size of the drill bit as in the previous posts method. It would be a nightmare.
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