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Old 12-07-2011, 03:30 PM   #15
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thanks guys

Wow!!!
This place is so great that all of your advice just reminds me of my ignorance on this subject
Now I'm even scare to ask if that same Dril Bit can be used to drill the rivets out.
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Old 12-07-2011, 04:06 PM   #16
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It can.
I however, drill the original buck rivets with an 1/8 bit. That generally gets rid of the head and shaft. Not always though. The original rivets were 1/8" with the bigger head. We now use 5/32" with smaller heads. I then drill it with a #20. I try my best to drill once, straight in, then once straight out. I do not push the bit in and out as some do. That makes for a sloppy hole. So far this seems to work just fine (for me).
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Old 12-07-2011, 04:13 PM   #17
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I wanted to thank Top for this. I have it very firmly bookmarked. I did consult it and found that the #30 drill bits I use for the 1/8" closed end pop rivets is to code. There is a ton of useful info. I just might have to print it off and have it around the shop.
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Old 12-07-2011, 04:20 PM   #18
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Just be careful what you get from TOP. He actually likes helicopters.
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Old 12-07-2011, 04:28 PM   #19
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My father flew helicopters in Vietnam. I have a soft spot for helicopters. I have a soft spot for Vietnam Vets too.
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:38 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
I wanted to thank Top for this. I have it very firmly bookmarked. I did consult it and found that the #30 drill bits I use for the 1/8" closed end pop rivets is to code. There is a ton of useful info. I just might have to print it off and have it around the shop.
You are very welcome Frank. We call it the sheet metal mechanic's bible. It has some of the knowledge and experience in Kip's head in an easily referenced, searchable format.
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Just be careful what you get from TOP. He actually likes helicopters.
I sure do.
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My father flew helicopters in Vietnam. I have a soft spot for helicopters. I have a soft spot for Vietnam Vets too.
I have a soft spot for them too. I really enjoy this website. Nearly every Aviation Battalion in the Army today can trace its lineage back to an aviation company that was baptized by fire in the jungles and rice paddies of Vietnam. Cheers to your Father and all of his pilot buddies, Frank!

And cheers to you MelodyRanch!
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Old 12-10-2011, 01:28 PM   #21
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Now just wondering if the original rivets were 1/8" with the bigger head.
Why we are going now to the use of 5/32" with smaller heads?
Shouldn't we keep trying to keep the same size rivets or that is totally unrealistic?
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Old 12-10-2011, 01:41 PM   #22
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Now just wondering if the original rivets were 1/8" with the bigger head.
Why we are going now to the use of 5/32" with smaller heads?
Shouldn't we keep trying to keep the same size rivets or that is totally unrealistic?
Olympic rivets for Airstream usage have always been 5/32 shank, but with the same size "brazier head" as the 1/8 buck rivets.

That is so the looks do not basically change and the strength of the shank was maximized, so as to be similair to the buck rivets shan strength.

Andy
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:10 PM   #23
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Found his Online

Found them online for a much better price than Vintage Trailer Supply.
Also noticed a small difference on certain measurements would still work fine?
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:49 PM   #24
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That is the type of rivet you use on the inside. They are not really weatherproof as the stem breaks off within the head and won't really match like the Olympic rivets
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:15 AM   #25
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Dark is very right about the not waterproof part. If you keep searching you will find "closed end" version that is water proof. I use that type as normal pop rivets. They are a nominal 1/8" however. I drill them with a #30, I used to just use an 1/8" but the hole always seemed too tight. With a #30 they fit the hole, well, like it was meant for it.
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:13 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
Dark is very right about the not waterproof part. If you keep searching you will find "closed end" version that is water proof. I use that type as normal pop rivets. They are a nominal 1/8" however. I drill them with a #30, I used to just use an 1/8" but the hole always seemed too tight. With a #30 they fit the hole, well, like it was meant for it.
Mcmaster Carr has 5/32 closed end stainless and aluminum pop rivets that I used on my belly pan. Everything that is visible on the exterior should be a bucked solid rivet or a blind Olympic rivet
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:21 AM   #27
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Mc Master Carr is my go to. I order online before 5pm and it arrives at 10 the next morning at no added cost.
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:24 PM   #28
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Todd & Frank
Thanks guys.
We were searching and searching for a good site to get the rivets and other parts and thanks a lot for that one!
I'm very tempted to get the Stainless Steel but I'm thinking that is I need to drill these rivets out again on the future it will not be a pleasant situation so I'm more inclined towards the aluminum rivet.
Now this is so good that they have 5 options? I'm lost on this again. What part # should we get?
Thanks

5/32" Dia.—For Hole Size: 0.16"-0.164" (Drill Size #20)
0.063"-0.125"0.3"0.328"0.05"22035025097447A030 $11.17
0.126"-0.187"0.362"0.328"0.05"22035025097447A032$11.20
0.188"-0.25"0.425"0.328"0.05"22035025097447A035 $10.79
0.251"-0.375"0.55"0.328"0.05"22035025097447A040 $11.49
0.376"-0.5"0.675"0.328"0.05"22035025097447A041$ 13.23
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