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Old 02-24-2016, 05:40 AM   #1
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Corner damage

Hi all,
My husband has been asked to quote some quite extensive panel replacement, and I'm hoping someone here has some experience. We're trying to estimate the workload involved in something like this, as he doesn't have a lot of panel replacement experience (he is a boilermaker by trade and very handy, so he's quite capable) so we don't really know how many hours/days/weeks it could take. There is some other minor damage elsewhere but this is the bulk of it. Any estimates on timeframe for a job like this?
Thanks in advance,
Amy
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Old 02-24-2016, 06:43 AM   #2
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Likely totaled.
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Old 02-24-2016, 09:54 AM   #3
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This is a can of worms. Not a project for a first time restorer. I know you say he's a boilermaker and handy and all that, but ask him if he'd let a handy carpenter replace a boiler in a cruise ship his first time out.
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:01 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amysemmens View Post
Hi all,
My husband has been asked to quote some quite extensive panel replacement, and I'm hoping someone here has some experience. We're trying to estimate the workload involved in something like this, as he doesn't have a lot of panel replacement experience (he is a boilermaker by trade and very handy, so he's quite capable) so we don't really know how many hours/days/weeks it could take. There is some other minor damage elsewhere but this is the bulk of it. Any estimates on timeframe for a job like this?
Thanks in advance,
Amy
Attachment 257774
Each segment takes 6 hours.

The front panel would take 3 to 4 hours.

The wing window 2 hours.

The first main bow, splicing a section, 3 hours.

Interior damage, guessing 6 to 8 hours.

Andy
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Old 02-25-2016, 05:07 AM   #5
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Thanks Andy for your helpful response!

This airstream was imported to Australia with 5 others to be converted to a luxury hotel, so to stamp it as 'totalled' isn't really an option. It is well insured, and in my view, repairable. My husband has worked on rear end separation on another airstream, and in the process of doing a shell-off on our own airstream.

He's familiar with their structure, is engineering minded and has the trade experience and knowledge of tools to handle this repair. The main issue is the quote, or time involved.

Andy I had a look at some panels on your website today, but need to find out shipping costs to Australia. How would I do that?

Many Thanks
Amy

Here's the details of the project in a recent newspaper article: http://www.theage.com.au/victoria/si...22-gn07fb.html
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Old 02-25-2016, 07:52 AM   #6
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That is not totaled. To me the hardest part would be welding in new supports. Get someone with a TIG welder to come in and get those done. But replacing panels is easy...just time consuming. Start drilling out rivets until it comes apart, order new parts, and start riveting it back together. The inside will have to come apart too...obviously.
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Old 02-26-2016, 11:46 AM   #7
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The thing to keep in mind is the hotel part. If the trailer is not going to be Moved it is easier to fix but if ever to be towed again the damaged interior structure has to be restored also for saftey and structural integrity.
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:18 PM   #8
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Copied from my last post.
This will work on this repair...

It has been 15 years since I performed extensive sheet metal repair, but I will attempt to explain tried and true sheet metal skin panel replacement.
Keep in mind this work was done for a Aluminum tube flying at 440+ knots.
How extensive you wish to go is up to you.

Step 1.
Drill off the old skin by drilling only the rivet heads off using the proper size drill bit and staying in the center the rivet head will easily break loose and spin. At times I would have over 10 rivet heads stuck on my drill bit before I stopped to clean them off.
Carefully punch the rivet shank and tail out of the hole, only running your drill bit through when necessary. Careful not to dent your adjacent skin panel.
Step 2.
Place your new panel over your repair and "back drill" from the inside of the camper through your old support channel using the smallest drill bit possible. #30 drill bit.
Install clecos in every third hole Trim the panel to fit as you progress along.
Once you have your new panel trimmed a fitting perfectly, run a strip of blue painters tape on the aluminum skin you will be riveting to butting up to the edge of your new panel overlap. Remove panel and prepare for final install.

NOTE:
We always apply a "very thin layer" of sealant to the new panel just before final install and Only where they overlap. .025" is the average thickness of the sealant.
With a little practice on a old piece of metal you can do this easily by hand using a plastic scraper.
You may also want to practice drilling and riveting on a old panel before moving on to your repair.
When you cleco the panels back together some sealant will ooze out and more will ooze out during riveting. Use sealant with a longer working time as possible 4-6 hours.
The longer the better.

Step 3.
Install the new panel with sealant and reinstall clecos.
Drill out rivet holes to the proper size and install rivets as you go. Once you have completed all the open holes go back and remove clecos and rivet. Remove painter tape and clean any sealant off using acetone and a plastic scraper. When the sealant is 3/4 setup it is much easier to remove with a plastic scraper.
No metal or aluminum scrapers allowed.
Note:
Using excessive sealant will cause buckling between rivets resulting In a unsightly wavy pattern along your finished edge.
Keep acetone and paper towels nearby during final install you both will need it to keep your tools clean.
Doing this will give you a water tight structural repair that will last years.
Hope this helps
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:42 PM   #9
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An insurance company would total it but- A lot of work, but repairable. On the plus side does not look like any frame damage. Any damage to the floor?
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:42 PM   #10
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Boilermakers do different kinds of work, so maybe. Being handy and his frame off experience may be of more value to him.

A fellow much smarter than me said, figure out how much it will cost to do and then multiply by 3. That covers the do it, the redoit, and a bit of profit. My actual is always 4-6 times X because of that learning curve thing.

Are these the ones that are up on the open parking section of a garage? Will he be working on the roof or in a shop? Having material and tools close will make a difference. Having to work in the field adds to the time required due to mobilization and transport of materials.

Certainly an interesting project if it comes his way. Good luck. Pat
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Old 03-30-2016, 05:33 AM   #11
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Thanks everyone, I've passed on all your comments and he started the job today. Will keep you up to date on how it goes! Pat, yes that's the one. One the top of a carpark in Melbourne CBD
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Old 04-10-2016, 06:41 AM   #12
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Hi all, thought is post an update. Deans done a great job of the repair. Due to time and budget constraints, he was asked to repair the damage as best he could without buying new panels, only flat sheets. He removed the interior and exterior panels, repaired the damaged ribs and window, bashed out the panel as best he could, then refit everything. It's not perfect, but given it was his first attempt and the damage involved, I think he's done an amazing job. 😊Click image for larger version

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Old 04-10-2016, 07:12 AM   #13
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That is a beautiful repair from 10 feet away. I'd say, great success! Thank you for posting the results.
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Old 04-15-2016, 07:08 AM   #14
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And here's another one after a polish...what dent? 😆
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