Rusted tight

[hampstead38]

I had a few spare minutes so I decided to play with removing the old Reese WD hitch. I hit the u-bolts and nuts with some PB Blaster a couple of days ago. I thought when the POR-15 came in, I'd do the tongue. The tanks and hoses came off easily enough. The u-bolts, however, are going to require heat and a breaker bar... a serious breaker bar. It's been awhile, but I'm confident I can twist off at least one bolt in a fit of Hulkian rage.

Here's the deal. The original Reese has been on for probably 20 years. It's structurally sound, but pretty rusted. Do I grunt out the bolts or do I simply say... time for a new WD hitch and "hot wrench" them off. Feel free to weigh in.

[richinny]

what about just replacing the u-bolts or a nut splitter?

[jerrypeterma]

Hey Hamstead
I have good luck when I tighten the nuts just a little before the lefty loosey. It seems to break the rust and frees the threads.
Take care
Jerry

[Ramp]

I like to use an impact gun for me it seems to work better than a breaker bar.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by richinny

what about just replacing the u-bolts or a nut splitter?

What he said... new hardware the way to go.

[overlander64]

I would add a "third" to the idea of cutting the "U-Bolts" that hold the dual cams onto the A-frame. I don't know whether this was typical to all dealers or just to the specialty hitch shop that installed the Straight-Line Hitch on my Overlander -- evidently in an effort to insure that the nuts would never back-off, they purposely mauled the threads below the nuts such that it was impossible to back the nuts off with any combination of chemicals or leverage reinforcement. Finally resulted to cutting the U-Bolts and installing all new attachment hardware after the A-frame had been repainted.

The U-Bolt kit is readily available through Reese retailers, but be sure to specify the shorter U-Bolts as the standard ones are far too long for use on the Vintage Airstream coaches -- these will be a special order for most Reese dealers other than those accustomed to dealing with Vintage Airstream owners. I now carry a spare set of these specialty U-Bolts in my spare parts kit as both my Overlander and Minuet use these shorter U-bolts.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin

[overlander63]

I would cut off the U-bolts, and save the trouble of a busted knuckle trying to remove something that's going to break off anyway.
I got 4 U-bolts in the proper size, and used a die to cut the threads up to where I needed them, then cut off the excess.

[mustang]

jpeterman I agree with that tighten it to crackum loose. I do that on heavy stuff, plus it streches the threads. Either get an impact and crankum tight till they break, or use a sawzall and cuttum. If you insist on unscrewing them at least cut the threads off below the rusted nuts so you dont have to unscrew them all that way. Man I am sweating just thinking about it. You could use a dremel and cut the nuts on either side to split them if you weant to save the u bolts. I use the swat controll on mine. although it really doesnt matter. I dont even need the bars so if it breaks on the road just throwum in the back. 1 more reason to have a heavy tow vehicle.

[mustang]

hey look 2 overlanders.... Are you related???

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by mustang

hey look 2 overlanders.... Are you related???

We are related by aluminum...

[doorgunner]

fire up the "gas axe"

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by hampstead38

I had a few spare minutes so I decided to play with removing the old Reese WD hitch. I hit the u-bolts and nuts with some PB Blaster a couple of days ago. I thought when the POR-15 came in, I'd do the tongue. The tanks and hoses came off easily enough. The u-bolts, however, are going to require heat and a breaker bar... a serious breaker bar. It's been awhile, but I'm confident I can twist off at least one bolt in a fit of Hulkian rage.

Here's the deal. The original Reese has been on for probably 20 years. It's structurally sound, but pretty rusted. Do I grunt out the bolts or do I simply say... time for a new WD hitch and "hot wrench" them off. Feel free to weigh in.

Cut the U-bolts off.

Replace them, but use 3 on each side, instead of the original 2.

The sway control U-bolts stretch, and will move. Installing the 3rd U-bolt, forever stops that.

Andy

[hampstead38]

Well, it's good to know the "get a bigger hammer" club is alive and well. I don't have the "hot wrench" set up at the house, but I can get access to one. Of course, I have been known to grind off bolts or nuts in an intemperate moment.

I appreciate the great advice on the U bolts. Ordering new bolts is probably the way to go. And thank, Andy, for the recommendationg on going triple. I wouldn't have thought of that. And the length issue is a great call as well.

I have used the tighten first approach to crack the grip. With a bit of heat and some "tapping," I loosened one nuts... but it involved enough effort to make me rethink the situation. The threads are rusted inside the nut and there's a heavy coat of paint below. There's no "easy" turning on these bad boys, no matter how I slice it.

Well, the bottom line is that I wouldn't reuse the u-bolts anyway so why not. But, hey, I don't have to put away the 50 pound sledge, do I?

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by hampstead38

Well, it's good to know the "get a bigger hammer" club is alive and well...

Or you could use one of my personal favorites - a circular saw with an abrasive cut-off wheel
Spectacular sparks!

[AirsDream]

Ayup, this is clearly one of those situations where, if the impact wrench won't take 'em off, the nut splitter or "blue tip wrench" is the way to go. Bolts are cheap; knuckles take a long time to heal. Don't ask me ...