Maximum extension length for shore power?

[Gene]

If you want to know just what cable is necessary to avoid voltage drop, Google it. There are plenty of charts that will tell you.

I'm confused about what the 14 gauge extension is for. I question whether a 14 gauge extension cord is sufficient for a 30 amp trailer if you are powering the trailer with it (yes the plugs are different, but with adapters, it could be used). In residential wiring, generally 15 amp circuits use 14 gauge, 20 amp circuits use 12 gauge and 30 amp circuits use 10 gauge. If you use 14 gauge and run the A/C, I'll bet the cord gets hot. And if you use two appliances at the same time, even hotter. And the appliances may operate well below 120 v., possibly damaging them.

If you are just using it to run a lamp 50' from the trailer, fine. But why all the cords? I've carried a 12' extension cord for years and never used it. I brought it in case while boon docking I wanted to use the generator to power a microwave or toaster, but never have bothered. One length of RV cable has always been long enough, though sometimes just barely. I have carried an extension for that (RV extension, not standard outdoor extension cord), but never needed it. The 50-30 amp. dogbone and a 20-30 adapter are good to have. I don't think I've ever used the dogbone either, and if so, once in 9 years. I have been short on coaxial cable for TV, so I have two cables, not sure of their length—maybe 40' all together. I recently added push on ends to the coax and that is a blessing. My hand is too big to easily screw the cable into the box on the side of the trailer.

So my list is: regular RV cord with twist lock, maybe an extension for that, 2 25' coaxial cables with push on ends, 50-30 dogbone, 20-20 adapter, one regular outdoor 12 gauge extension cord. The longer the cable, the harder to coil and store.

Gene

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by Gene

.... snip....

I'm confused about what the 14 gauge extension is for. I question whether a 14 gauge extension cord is sufficient for a 30 amp trailer ..... snip...

Gene

I have used the 14 ga extension for 120v small tools, 120v work light, battery charger, electric fry pan, air fan. It is lighter and easier to handle than the 12ga commercial extension cord I carry. It is definitely not for powering the trailer appliances, but it will handle the converter only in storage (and it is less expensive if stolen).

The reason I carry 2 25' 30 amp extensions; some campgrounds I have been in have the electric services that the power cord with one extension will not reach. I've also been at full a campground and been able to slip in to a non electric site and borrow from a neighbor's 50 amp.

[switz]

In the 23D I carry a 30 amp 30' cord with twist-look fittings on both ends so it can attach directly to the trailer and generator or be an extension for the 25' normal 30 Amp
Cord. Since I am limited to five amps in the storage unit, I carry a 25' 14 gage cord for in the storage unit. I also have all the possible adapters for both 50 amp poet source or 20 amp power source. I have a 20" pigtail to go from the trailer inlet to male 15 amp for storage power cord.

In the Classic, we have a 30' 50 amp main cord, a 10' and a 25' 50 amp extension cords. Various power adapters, 50 amp trailer connection to 15 amp male for storage unit power. 25' 15 amp cord for storage unit power.

[sgschwend]

So the way to do this commercially is to use a larger size wire to the receptacle so that the drop there is kept small.

Think of it like you are setting up a single load sub-panel. Hence run two number 6 AWG, and one 10 AWG for ground. That will save you more than 50% of the distribution loss. Branch circuit runs are always longer than one would think.

Compressor like their voltage.

[cactusjk]

Originally Posted by n2916s

If you have the basic OEM converter, you may not want to leave it plugged in as you can overcharge and damage your batteries. You could use a simple, inexpensive "battery tender" instead. For a low draw like that your basic big box extension cord will do fine.

Mike

I upgraded the OEM charger so I can leave it plugged in.

[FCStreamer]

Originally Posted by n2916s

If you have the basic OEM converter, you may not want to leave it plugged in as you can overcharge and damage your batteries. You could use a simple, inexpensive "battery tender" instead. For a low draw like that your basic big box extension cord will do fine.

Mike

Hang on - so if I leave my AS plugged in all the time, I will overcharge my batteries?

[cactusjk]

Yes. I shifted to an Intel-Power 4600 converter/charger to avoid that.

[FCStreamer]

So what is the Use/Store button for then?

[cactusjk]

Originally Posted by FCStreamer

So what is the Use/Store button for then?

To do just that. The problem is AS uses an old charger. Search the forum and ask any AS dealer.

[Gene]

The problem with the cheap OEM charger is this—if you leave it plugged in, eventually it will overcharge the batteries and after a while the water will evaporate in the batteries, causing more problems. This most often happens when stored, but if you have fully charged batteries while camping, the charger part of the converter will continue to (over)charge them.

If you turn off the "use" switch or don't plug in shore power, the batteries will gradually lose a charge and may get so low, they get some damage. In that case, you need to recharge the batteries every couple of months. For that it is best to use a trickle charger or one that switches to trickle once the batteries are charged. There's really no reason to change "use" to "store" because all you have to do is unplug shore power.

The best long run solution is to get a better converter that includes a trickle charger option. These are called three stage chargers as they first charge fast, then slower, then only to top off the charge.

Since most people seem to buy Airstreams for the long run, it follows that most of us upgrade a number of cheap items Airstream installs. The converter is one of them.

Gene

[switz]

So far we have replaced the water heater, oven/stove, refrigerator, skylight, roof vent fans, all electrical outlets, brake system and bearings, tires and wheels, battery system, converter, and circuit breaker box. In the future, will probably replace the roof air conditioner. Other than that, the trailer is stock.

[cactusjk]

Why push on ends for the TV cable?

Originally Posted by Gene

If you want to know just what cable is necessary to avoid voltage drop, Google it. There are plenty of charts that will tell you.

I'm confused about what the 14 gauge extension is for. I question whether a 14 gauge extension cord is sufficient for a 30 amp trailer if you are powering the trailer with it (yes the plugs are different, but with adapters, it could be used). In residential wiring, generally 15 amp circuits use 14 gauge, 20 amp circuits use 12 gauge and 30 amp circuits use 10 gauge. If you use 14 gauge and run the A/C, I'll bet the cord gets hot. And if you use two appliances at the same time, even hotter. And the appliances may operate well below 120 v., possibly damaging them.

If you are just using it to run a lamp 50' from the trailer, fine. But why all the cords? I've carried a 12' extension cord for years and never used it. I brought it in case while boon docking I wanted to use the generator to power a microwave or toaster, but never have bothered. One length of RV cable has always been long enough, though sometimes just barely. I have carried an extension for that (RV extension, not standard outdoor extension cord), but never needed it. The 50-30 amp. dogbone and a 20-30 adapter are good to have. I don't think I've ever used the dogbone either, and if so, once in 9 years. I have been short on coaxial cable for TV, so I have two cables, not sure of their length—maybe 40' all together. I recently added push on ends to the coax and that is a blessing. My hand is too big to easily screw the cable into the box on the side of the trailer.

So my list is: regular RV cord with twist lock, maybe an extension for that, 2 25' coaxial cables with push on ends, 50-30 dogbone, 20-20 adapter, one regular outdoor 12 gauge extension cord. The longer the cable, the harder to coil and store.

Gene

[rmkrum]

Push on television cable ends also pull off easily. Even if you forget to remove them before you pull out.....

I haven't done this dumb move yet, but I bet others have, and for sure something is going to give as you drive away. It's better to have to replace a cheap cable than try to fix bent aluminum or a broken internal cable...😄 just sayin!


Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Quite simply, the size of the wire for the extension cord, dictates how long it can be.

You could go 1,000 feet, if needed, as long as the wire size was adequate.

I used years ago, a 200 foot extension cord, and had less than one volt drop, "with the AC running".

A pain in the neck to haul around, absolutely.

But the performce was top shelf.

Andy

Andy reviving this thread! What was the size wire on that cord?

[rmkrum]

Sadly, Andy is no longer alive, and had sold his business a few years ago.

Check an ‘Ampacity Chart’ for accurate information on wire sizes, length, voltage drops, etc.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Sadly, Andy is no longer alive, and had sold his business a few years ago.

Check an ‘Ampacity Chart’ for accurate information on wire sizes, length, voltage drops, etc.

Thanks, I realized that after I posted. I was thinking it was Andy at Can Am when I wrote the post.

[GetawA-S]

If you find you must connect cords, do it with the breaker off to prevent arcing and the resultant degradation of the connectors.
We had a recent stay messed up because the utility post was fried (obvious arcing on each outlet) and the park people hadn’t felt like providing a working contact number.

[Gene]

Best to turn off the breakers before you attach the power cord to prevent arcing. We never do that with home appliances and lamps because we would have to go to the breaker box, but on the RV CG pedestals, the breaker is right there. A lot of times is is hard to read which way is "off".

Theoretically the receptacle could be on the other side of the planet if you had a thick enough conductor, but getting permission to drag it across all that land and ocean would be difficult to get and then you have to drag cable the diameter of submarine or a whale. Voltage drop tables have been posted many times on the Forum and are easy to find online.