RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-08-2016, 03:51 PM   #21
Master of Universe
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,043
If you want to know just what cable is necessary to avoid voltage drop, Google it. There are plenty of charts that will tell you.

I'm confused about what the 14 gauge extension is for. I question whether a 14 gauge extension cord is sufficient for a 30 amp trailer if you are powering the trailer with it (yes the plugs are different, but with adapters, it could be used). In residential wiring, generally 15 amp circuits use 14 gauge, 20 amp circuits use 12 gauge and 30 amp circuits use 10 gauge. If you use 14 gauge and run the A/C, I'll bet the cord gets hot. And if you use two appliances at the same time, even hotter. And the appliances may operate well below 120 v., possibly damaging them.

If you are just using it to run a lamp 50' from the trailer, fine. But why all the cords? I've carried a 12' extension cord for years and never used it. I brought it in case while boon docking I wanted to use the generator to power a microwave or toaster, but never have bothered. One length of RV cable has always been long enough, though sometimes just barely. I have carried an extension for that (RV extension, not standard outdoor extension cord), but never needed it. The 50-30 amp. dogbone and a 20-30 adapter are good to have. I don't think I've ever used the dogbone either, and if so, once in 9 years. I have been short on coaxial cable for TV, so I have two cables, not sure of their length—maybe 40' all together. I recently added push on ends to the coax and that is a blessing. My hand is too big to easily screw the cable into the box on the side of the trailer.

So my list is: regular RV cord with twist lock, maybe an extension for that, 2 25' coaxial cables with push on ends, 50-30 dogbone, 20-20 adapter, one regular outdoor 12 gauge extension cord. The longer the cable, the harder to coil and store.

Gene
__________________
Gene

The Airstream is sold; a 2016 Nash 24M replaced it.
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2016, 04:29 PM   #22
Rivet Master
 
A W Warn's Avatar

 
2000 25' Safari
1999 34' Excella
Davidson County , NC Highlands County, FL
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
.... snip....

I'm confused about what the 14 gauge extension is for. I question whether a 14 gauge extension cord is sufficient for a 30 amp trailer ..... snip...

Gene
I have used the 14 ga extension for 120v small tools, 120v work light, battery charger, electric fry pan, air fan. It is lighter and easier to handle than the 12ga commercial extension cord I carry. It is definitely not for powering the trailer appliances, but it will handle the converter only in storage (and it is less expensive if stolen).

The reason I carry 2 25' 30 amp extensions; some campgrounds I have been in have the electric services that the power cord with one extension will not reach. I've also been at full a campground and been able to slip in to a non electric site and borrow from a neighbor's 50 amp.
A W Warn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2016, 05:00 PM   #23
Rivet Master
 
switz's Avatar

 
2014 31' Classic
2015 23' International
2013 25' FB International
Apache Junction , Arizona
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 5,622
Images: 8
In the 23D I carry a 30 amp 30' cord with twist-look fittings on both ends so it can attach directly to the trailer and generator or be an extension for the 25' normal 30 Amp
Cord. Since I am limited to five amps in the storage unit, I carry a 25' 14 gage cord for in the storage unit. I also have all the possible adapters for both 50 amp poet source or 20 amp power source. I have a 20" pigtail to go from the trailer inlet to male 15 amp for storage power cord.

In the Classic, we have a 30' 50 amp main cord, a 10' and a 25' 50 amp extension cords. Various power adapters, 50 amp trailer connection to 15 amp male for storage unit power. 25' 15 amp cord for storage unit power.
__________________
WBCCI Life Member 5123, AIR 70341, 4CU, WD9EMC

TV - 2012 Dodge 2500 4x4 Cummins HO, automatic, Centramatics, Kelderman level ride airbag suspension, bed shell

2014 31' Classic model 30 twin beds, 50 amp service, 900 watt solar system, Centramatics, Tuson TPMS, disc brakes, 16" tires & wheels
switz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2016, 10:19 PM   #24
Rivet Master
 
sgschwend's Avatar
 
1986 25' Sovereign
2008 F350, 6.4L diesel , Oak Harbor, WA
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 605
Images: 13
So the way to do this commercially is to use a larger size wire to the receptacle so that the drop there is kept small.

Think of it like you are setting up a single load sub-panel. Hence run two number 6 AWG, and one 10 AWG for ground. That will save you more than 50% of the distribution loss. Branch circuit runs are always longer than one would think.

Compressor like their voltage.
sgschwend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2016, 05:49 AM   #25
4 Rivet Member
 
2015 23' Flying Cloud
Livermore , California
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by n2916s View Post
If you have the basic OEM converter, you may not want to leave it plugged in as you can overcharge and damage your batteries. You could use a simple, inexpensive "battery tender" instead. For a low draw like that your basic big box extension cord will do fine.

Mike


I upgraded the OEM charger so I can leave it plugged in.
cactusjk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2016, 06:12 AM   #26
Rivet Master
 
FCStreamer's Avatar
 
2014 30' Flying Cloud
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,364
Blog Entries: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by n2916s View Post
If you have the basic OEM converter, you may not want to leave it plugged in as you can overcharge and damage your batteries. You could use a simple, inexpensive "battery tender" instead. For a low draw like that your basic big box extension cord will do fine.

Mike
Hang on - so if I leave my AS plugged in all the time, I will overcharge my batteries?
__________________
2014 Airstream Flying Cloud 30 Recliner - WBCCI #4850 - AIR #110821
2018 Nissan Armada SL Tow Vehicle, Equal-i-zer Hitch
Visit Our Flying Cloud blog for my latest adventure!
FCStreamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2016, 06:15 AM   #27
4 Rivet Member
 
2015 23' Flying Cloud
Livermore , California
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 373
Yes. I shifted to an Intel-Power 4600 converter/charger to avoid that.
cactusjk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2016, 06:24 AM   #28
Rivet Master
 
FCStreamer's Avatar
 
2014 30' Flying Cloud
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,364
Blog Entries: 1
So what is the Use/Store button for then?
__________________
2014 Airstream Flying Cloud 30 Recliner - WBCCI #4850 - AIR #110821
2018 Nissan Armada SL Tow Vehicle, Equal-i-zer Hitch
Visit Our Flying Cloud blog for my latest adventure!
FCStreamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2016, 05:11 AM   #29
4 Rivet Member
 
2015 23' Flying Cloud
Livermore , California
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by FCStreamer View Post
So what is the Use/Store button for then?


To do just that. The problem is AS uses an old charger. Search the forum and ask any AS dealer.
cactusjk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2016, 10:49 AM   #30
Master of Universe
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,043
The problem with the cheap OEM charger is this—if you leave it plugged in, eventually it will overcharge the batteries and after a while the water will evaporate in the batteries, causing more problems. This most often happens when stored, but if you have fully charged batteries while camping, the charger part of the converter will continue to (over)charge them.

If you turn off the "use" switch or don't plug in shore power, the batteries will gradually lose a charge and may get so low, they get some damage. In that case, you need to recharge the batteries every couple of months. For that it is best to use a trickle charger or one that switches to trickle once the batteries are charged. There's really no reason to change "use" to "store" because all you have to do is unplug shore power.

The best long run solution is to get a better converter that includes a trickle charger option. These are called three stage chargers as they first charge fast, then slower, then only to top off the charge.

Since most people seem to buy Airstreams for the long run, it follows that most of us upgrade a number of cheap items Airstream installs. The converter is one of them.

Gene
__________________
Gene

The Airstream is sold; a 2016 Nash 24M replaced it.
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2016, 08:51 AM   #31
Rivet Master
 
switz's Avatar

 
2014 31' Classic
2015 23' International
2013 25' FB International
Apache Junction , Arizona
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 5,622
Images: 8
So far we have replaced the water heater, oven/stove, refrigerator, skylight, roof vent fans, all electrical outlets, brake system and bearings, tires and wheels, battery system, converter, and circuit breaker box. In the future, will probably replace the roof air conditioner. Other than that, the trailer is stock.
__________________
WBCCI Life Member 5123, AIR 70341, 4CU, WD9EMC

TV - 2012 Dodge 2500 4x4 Cummins HO, automatic, Centramatics, Kelderman level ride airbag suspension, bed shell

2014 31' Classic model 30 twin beds, 50 amp service, 900 watt solar system, Centramatics, Tuson TPMS, disc brakes, 16" tires & wheels
switz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2016, 09:30 AM   #32
4 Rivet Member
 
2015 23' Flying Cloud
Livermore , California
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 373
Why push on ends for the TV cable?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
If you want to know just what cable is necessary to avoid voltage drop, Google it. There are plenty of charts that will tell you.

I'm confused about what the 14 gauge extension is for. I question whether a 14 gauge extension cord is sufficient for a 30 amp trailer if you are powering the trailer with it (yes the plugs are different, but with adapters, it could be used). In residential wiring, generally 15 amp circuits use 14 gauge, 20 amp circuits use 12 gauge and 30 amp circuits use 10 gauge. If you use 14 gauge and run the A/C, I'll bet the cord gets hot. And if you use two appliances at the same time, even hotter. And the appliances may operate well below 120 v., possibly damaging them.

If you are just using it to run a lamp 50' from the trailer, fine. But why all the cords? I've carried a 12' extension cord for years and never used it. I brought it in case while boon docking I wanted to use the generator to power a microwave or toaster, but never have bothered. One length of RV cable has always been long enough, though sometimes just barely. I have carried an extension for that (RV extension, not standard outdoor extension cord), but never needed it. The 50-30 amp. dogbone and a 20-30 adapter are good to have. I don't think I've ever used the dogbone either, and if so, once in 9 years. I have been short on coaxial cable for TV, so I have two cables, not sure of their length—maybe 40' all together. I recently added push on ends to the coax and that is a blessing. My hand is too big to easily screw the cable into the box on the side of the trailer.

So my list is: regular RV cord with twist lock, maybe an extension for that, 2 25' coaxial cables with push on ends, 50-30 dogbone, 20-20 adapter, one regular outdoor 12 gauge extension cord. The longer the cable, the harder to coil and store.

Gene
cactusjk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2016, 09:14 PM   #33
Rivet Master

 
2007 22' International CCD
Corona , California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 8,524
Push on television cable ends also pull off easily. Even if you forget to remove them before you pull out.....

I haven't done this dumb move yet, but I bet others have, and for sure something is going to give as you drive away. It's better to have to replace a cheap cable than try to fix bent aluminum or a broken internal cable...😄 just sayin!


Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
rmkrum is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Shore power requirments for trailers Mrcrowley Generators & Solar Power 21 08-02-2017 06:20 AM
Power Loss & Pets Inside? Frank&Mike The Pet Forum 67 07-27-2013 09:57 AM
Solar Power for Battery Maintenance Tumajin Generators & Solar Power 10 08-12-2011 07:10 AM
Newbie has power questions Czechitout Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 2 08-07-2011 05:20 PM
Power cord length-recommendations? SilverHoot Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 17 01-23-2011 03:39 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.