all new electrical... Help!

[photocodo]

I just finished taking out all of the aluminum and insulation on the inside of my 64 tradewind (taking care to keep the aluminum in good, reusable condition). I am now going to rewire the entire trailer because I am going to be living in it for a few years and do not want any surprises. I do not know much about electrical systems but have a friend who is an electrician. He is asking me what systems he needs to wire for (air conditioner, water pump, water heater, etc. etc.). I know all of the major things that will need power but is there any type of list out there that has all of the possible things an RV might need. I just want to make sure that I have all of my bases covered. Thank you and I appologise if I seem ignorant, I am pretty new at this whole airstream thing.
Thank you again
Photocodo

[wkerfoot]

Originally Posted by photocodo

I just finished taking out all of the aluminum and insulation on the inside of my 64 tradewind (taking care to keep the aluminum in good, reusable condition). I am now going to rewire the entire trailer because I am going to be living in it for a few years and do not want any surprises. I do not know much about electrical systems but have a friend who is an electrician. He is asking me what systems he needs to wire for (air conditioner, water pump, water heater, etc. etc.). I know all of the major things that will need power but is there any type of list out there that has all of the possible things an RV might need. I just want to make sure that I have all of my bases covered. Thank you and I appologise if I seem ignorant, I am pretty new at this whole airstream thing.
Thank you again
Photocodo

Photocodo,

A/C, microwave, wall outlets (inside and out), refrigerator, elec element for water heater (if installed) and converter are 110 V. Water pump, furnace, refrigerator, 12V outlets, ceiling lights are 12V. New refrigerators need 12V for the automatic switchover between gas and 110 and some run on 12V also while traveling.

I think that is it, someone else can add what I forgot.

Bill

[DaveFL]

"but have a friend who is an electrician"
Good idea for him to review RV electrical systems.
DO NOT LET HIM USE screw on connecter caps, they loosen, arc and burn.
All wires passing thru metal holes need to be protected.
Good time to add convenience outlets where they can be reached not behind furniture. Reading lights, indirect lighting,

[MarkR]

Originally Posted by DaveFL

"but have a friend who is an electrician"
Good idea for him to review RV electrical systems.
DO NOT LET HIM USE screw on connecter caps, they loosen, arc and burn . . .,

Is there a recommended alternative?
Thanks, MarkR

[overlander64]

Greetings Photocodo!

Assuming that you are planning on being able to travel with your Tradewind following its time in "dry-dock", I would suggest the following:

• On the 12-volt DC side of the equation:
  • Power to each of the roof vents such that something like a Fantastic Vent can be installed for air circulation.
  • Power to each location where you wish to have a ceiling fixture -- today, virtually all RV light fixtures are 12-volt DC ('64 was among the first years Airstream light fixtures were strictly 12-volt).
  • Power for reading fixtures above the bed(s) if you are so inclined.
  • Power for reading fixtures on either side of the front lounge.
  • Power for under-cabinet lighting in kitchen area.
  • Power for exterior "scare" light assuming your coach has one (they were optional on some Airstream models).
  • Power for the demand water pump
  • Power for the TV Antenna Booster as well as a COAX cable for the television
  • Power for the automotive stereo system if you so choose as well as antenna lead.
  • Power for rangetop igniters if you choose to go with electronic ignition on a new range/range top
  • Power for the range exhaust vent fan
  • Power for the furnace circulating fan and ignition
  • Power for the refrigerator's electronic control board as well as heavier lead for 12-vot DC operation if you decide to go with a 3-Way RV refrigerator.
  • Power for bathroom ventilation fan
  • Power for bathroom convenience outlet
  • Power for bathroom light(s)
  • Power for igniter on water heater if you choose to install one with remote ignition (start).
• 120-Vot AC devices
  • Air Conditioner - - - if you plan to go with roof mount air conditioner, remember that Airstream specifies the placement of the air conditioner in a location other than in one of the vent openings - - - a separate hole is cut for the air conditioner.
  • Power Converter -- 120-Volt AC to 12-Volt DC plus charge circuit for on-board battery.
  • Power for 120-Volt AC heating element for refrigerator
  • Interior outlets . . . select places where you anticipate needing them . . . by '64 there were quite a few outlets . . . but not always where you need them.
  • Exterior outlet for optional porch light if your coach is so equipped
  • Exterior convenience outlet.
  • Outlet for microwave if you choose to equip your coach with one.
  • Outlet for television near where you want it to be located.
• Related wiring
  • Entrance COAX for cable television or satellite television
  • Entrance wire for telephone as well as needed outlets inside of coach
  • Wiring for Solar Panels, controller, inverter -- if so desired --- for future if you anticipate periods of dry camping. . .
  • New 12-volt Wiring for
    • Running and Marker lights
    • Brake and Turn Signal lights
    • Electric Brakes
    • Break Away Switch
    • Electric tongue jack
    • Backup Lights
    • 12-Volt Charge Line

I have probably overlooked something, but this should give you something of a laundry list of devices.

Good luck with your coach!

Kevin

[photocodo]

Originally Posted by overlander64

Greetings Photocodo!

Assuming that you are planning on being able to travel with your Tradewind following its time in "dry-dock", I would suggest the following:

• On the 12-volt DC side of the equation:
  • Power to each of the roof vents such that something like a Fantastic Vent can be installed for air circulation.
  • Power to each location where you wish to have a ceiling fixture -- today, virtually all RV light fixtures are 12-volt DC ('64 was among the first years Airstream light fixtures were strictly 12-volt).
  • Power for reading fixtures above the bed(s) if you are so inclined.
  • Power for reading fixtures on either side of the front lounge.
  • Power for under-cabinet lighting in kitchen area.
  • Power for exterior "scare" light assuming your coach has one (they were optional on some Airstream models).
  • Power for the demand water pump
  • Power for the TV Antenna Booster as well as a COAX cable for the television
  • Power for the automotive stereo system if you so choose as well as antenna lead.
  • Power for rangetop igniters if you choose to go with electronic ignition on a new range/range top
  • Power for the range exhaust vent fan
  • Power for the furnace circulating fan and ignition
  • Power for the refrigerator's electronic control board as well as heavier lead for 12-vot DC operation if you decide to go with a 3-Way RV refrigerator.
  • Power for bathroom ventilation fan
  • Power for bathroom convenience outlet
  • Power for bathroom light(s)
  • Power for igniter on water heater if you choose to install one with remote ignition (start).
• 120-Vot AC devices
  • Air Conditioner - - - if you plan to go with roof mount air conditioner, remember that Airstream specifies the placement of the air conditioner in a location other than in one of the vent openings - - - a separate hole is cut for the air conditioner.
  • Power Converter -- 120-Volt AC to 12-Volt DC plus charge circuit for on-board battery.
  • Power for 120-Volt AC heating element for refrigerator
  • Interior outlets . . . select places where you anticipate needing them . . . by '64 there were quite a few outlets . . . but not always where you need them.
  • Exterior outlet for optional porch light if your coach is so equipped
  • Exterior convenience outlet.
  • Outlet for microwave if you choose to equip your coach with one.
  • Outlet for television near where you want it to be located.
• Related wiring
  • Entrance COAX for cable television or satellite television
  • Entrance wire for telephone as well as needed outlets inside of coach
  • Wiring for Solar Panels, controller, inverter -- if so desired --- for future if you anticipate periods of dry camping. . .
  • New 12-volt Wiring for
    • Running and Marker lights
    • Brake and Turn Signal lights
    • Electric Brakes
    • Break Away Switch
    • Electric tongue jack
    • Backup Lights
    • 12-Volt Charge Line

I have probably overlooked something, but this should give you something of a laundry list of devices.

Good luck with your coach!

Kevin

Thank you, this was very helpful. I do have one question though. You said that a separate hole is cut for the air conditioner. Is this a requirement or just something that they suggest. I have three openings in my roof, two small square ones (14x14 I think) and one larger rectangular one (14x20 ish). Could I still put the air conditioner in one of these spaces or do I actually have to cut another hole.
Thank you
photocodo

[J R Vaughan]

The list by Overlander4 is a good beginning.
I would try to get a wiring diagram of an Airstream of similar size and look it over carefully. Your friend may be able to use it as a rough guide. In addition , don't forget the "low voltage wiring", such as wiring for thermostats to control furnace and A/C.. Plan it out and study it well...It becomes kind of permanent if something is overlooked..

[J R Vaughan]

P.S. Almost forgot compartment lights 12V.

[DaveFL]

Originally Posted by MarkR

Is there a recommended alternative?
Thanks, MarkR

Crimp on or none at all, is better, all runs to junction boxes, keep extra wire in length, bend or coil to allow for movement and change of length. Don't use aluminum wire. There is a difference houses don't move much and temperature change is much smaller.

[overlander64]

Greetings photocodo!

Originally Posted by photocodo

Thank you, this was very helpful. I do have one question though. You said that a separate hole is cut for the air conditioner. Is this a requirement or just something that they suggest. I have three openings in my roof, two small square ones (14x14 I think) and one larger rectangular one (14x20 ish). Could I still put the air conditioner in one of these spaces or do I actually have to cut another hole.
Thank you
photocodo

There are three reasons for using the specified location:

• It is where the factory added bracing for the air conditioner
• It is where you will find the wiring coiled ready for service
• The location was selected to maintain the coach's balance and weight distribution.

It is really nice to have the two 14" vents with Fantastic Vents or comparable devices when dry camping . . . they can add dramatically to comfort in warm to hot weather. The air conditioner is also comparatively close to the center of the coach so cool air is fairly well distributed when using the factory specified location.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin