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Old 02-24-2013, 09:18 PM   #15
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1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
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Go with a modern converter like a Progressive Dynamics 9245. You can find many types on eBay.
It was common back in the day to fuse the common/ground side of the battery circuit. But it seems odd, if this were the common/ground side. Why would it come in next to the +12 volt from the trailer and car battery. Can you get a pic of this bracket? It may in fact be a 30 to 50 amp fuse holder.
Your question of the capacity of the old Univolt. In my experience they were 30 amp. That's the size of the fuse going to the trailer or house battery.
In most trailers the black wire is the + side of the 12 volt system.
If you know how to use a VOM, it should be easy to identify. By continuity or reading voltage.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:10 PM   #16
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1975 31' Sovereign
Davin , West Virginia
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Well, after a week or two of being distracted by floor patching and leak stopping, I finally got around to trying a new battery. Hooked it up, and heard the teenager shout, "Lights are working!" In fact, everything works, except the radio. So, I've decided the wiring is probably correct. I would say that the 10 amps the charger puts out isn't enough to run even the lights, but probably would recharge the battery between camping trips. I will wait till payday and look for a good unit, like the one mentioned above.
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:42 AM   #17
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1975 31' Sovereign
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Thanks for all the good advice everybody. Twinkie, I took your recommendation and got the progressive dynamics with charge wizard. It didn't arrive until the day we left on our first camping trip, so we packed it just in case. Good thing, too! The first night the battery got more and more discharged (we were using the furnace) and the lights started going bright-dim as the battery charger cycled on and off. I was trying to figure out how I was going to come up with wires to install the new unit at midnight, when all I had was a roll of 12 gauge wire. I knew it wouldn't be heavy enough, when I remembered that the old univolt was still there under the bathtub. I fished around with my hands and found the original leads still attached to the old univolt, cut those off as long as I could, and they were perfect. I might have a picture on my phone I can post later. The only thing now (electrical) is to figure out if the water pump works, after I finish the plumbing, and to see why the control panel doesn't work. I haven't gotten around to pulling the fuse on that yet, but two fuses for the pump are good (an inline fuse, and the one on the panel).
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:30 AM   #18
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1975 31' Sovereign
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I almost forgot the other good news. The brake wire and charge line had been cut short at the umbilical connector for some reason. I got brave and decided to solder a jumper wire between the connector and the remaining wire on each of those circuits, and they worked! I had suspected that the po disconnected those because of some malfunction, but now I think he just didn't bother connecting them because he didn't have a brake controller on his tow vehicle, and maybe couldn't figure out why the other one seemed to be hot all the time. The brakes are great! Makes driving even easier, and I guess the charge line is ok, or I would know by now.
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