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01-26-2015, 09:17 AM
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#21
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"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale
, Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 356
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Congrats on your 3rd and 4th child. I think for now the fourth is going
to cost more!
I'm in the stage of putting new sub flooring over a rebuilt chassis...so
I'm just going to be blunt, you need to gut and start over from the look
of your pics.
I had no choice but to do a psudo shell off and am accomplishing this
by removing the aft section panels to allow access under the cover to
get the ply wood in. The shell is supported by 2x4 frames that have to
be constantly re-located which takes time, jacks, clamps and straps.
So I left the front quarter of the shell attached to prevent the frequent
20mph winds from blowing the whole shebang across the lawn..the cover
straps in tandem with interior bracing keep the unit somewhat intact in
the wind.
It can be done but in a perfect
world you would be better off taking the shell off.
Good luck.
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01-26-2015, 09:20 AM
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#22
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2 Rivet Member
1960 22' Safari
Johnson City
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 71
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Ahhh....thanks! Plan to do the whole floor. I guess I'll remove the rest of the bottom inner Lining than move to the belly pan.
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01-26-2015, 09:33 AM
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#23
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2 Rivet Member
1960 22' Safari
Johnson City
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Del Gurney
Congrats on your 3rd and 4th child. I think for now the fourth is going
to cost more!
I'm in the stage of putting new sub flooring over a rebuilt chassis...so
I'm just going to be blunt, you need to gut and start over from the look
of your pics.
I had no choice but to do a psudo shell off and am accomplishing this
by removing the aft section panels to allow access under the cover to
get the ply wood in. The shell is supported by 2x4 frames that have to
be constantly re-located which takes time, jacks, clamps and straps.
So I left the front quarter of the shell attached to prevent the frequent
20mph winds from blowing the whole shebang across the lawn..the cover
straps in tandem with interior bracing keep the unit somewhat intact in
the wind.
It can be done but in a perfect
world you would be better off taking the shell off.
Good luck.
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I've mentally prepared for total overhaul. I think I can handle quite a bit of it between my friends and I. I'll need to shop around for frame repair...I'm worried about dropping the belly pan though...I understand that can be tricky to replace...wonder if there is a shop nearby that would do that for me when I get there.
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01-26-2015, 09:36 AM
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#24
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King of the Zebra Speedo
Obrien
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,439
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Don't be afraid of the belly pan. I completely made a new one for mine. It's labor intensive, but not that difficult. If you're putting the original metal back in you shouldn't have any problem. Just mark everything real well...
-Red, belly master...
__________________
Somebody ought to clean these windows. There is a tremendous buildup of gook all over them...
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01-26-2015, 09:54 AM
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#25
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2 Rivet Member
1960 22' Safari
Johnson City
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panama Red
Don't be afraid of the belly pan. I completely made a new one for mine. It's labor intensive, but not that difficult. If you're putting the original metal back in you shouldn't have any problem. Just mark everything real well...
-Red, belly master...
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Ok, encouraging! Most of the tail pieces need to be replaced anyway. Thanks!
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01-26-2015, 10:29 AM
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#26
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Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
Port Hadlock
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 864
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Belly pans are different through the years. For yours (and mine) the belly pan fits in between the shell and the C channel and may be bent down over the C channel. Several of us have cut it off leaving a couple of feet on the perimeter. That at least gives you access to the frame and you can deal with the belly pan later.
Put an ad in the classifieds here on the stove. Someone will want it.
Read as many of the full renovation threads as you can. You'll learn answers to questions you didn't know you had!
Cheers,
Steve
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01-26-2015, 11:24 AM
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#27
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King of the Zebra Speedo
Obrien
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbearsailor
Belly pans are different through the years. For yours (and mine) the belly pan fits in between the shell and the C channel and may be bent down over the C channel. Several of us have cut it off leaving a couple of feet on the perimeter. That at least gives you access to the frame and you can deal with the belly pan later.
Put an ad in the classifieds here on the stove. Someone will want it.
Read as many of the full renovation threads as you can. You'll learn answers to questions you didn't know you had!
Cheers,
Steve
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True. I forgot that bit... my belly pan is done in three sections, a wrap on each side, and the long center section. Hope I didn't mislead. Don't know what year they made the change. All my experience is on a '74 Sovereign.
-Red, limited knowledge, endless advice...
__________________
Somebody ought to clean these windows. There is a tremendous buildup of gook all over them...
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01-26-2015, 07:45 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,322
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I think the belly pan made our trailers more aerodynamic. And it made them warmer as the belly pan helps hold the heat in. But truth be known, the belly pan is detrimental in that it holds moisture and makes maintenance harder.
Dropping the belly pan is as easy as drilling out a bunch of pop rivets. It is easy to take down. It is a bit more challenging getting it back up.
Red showed me his handy dandy upside down drill press! He mounted a 3/8 drill to his bottle jack and push it up into the frame and cross members to drill new 3/16 holes for the new pop rivets. Saves an old man's shoulder from all that drilling.
There is all kinds of treasure found in the belly pan. Dead varmints, rotten insulation, and maybe a couple of gallons of water. These forums have plenty of pictures of belly pan treasures.
Red, always helpful
David
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01-27-2015, 01:05 AM
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#29
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Rivet Master
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,408
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Congratulations! The AS redo will be a saving grace for your sanity... and you are not far away if needed...unless looking for parts...
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
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01-27-2015, 07:24 AM
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#30
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2 Rivet Member
1960 22' Safari
Johnson City
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwf
Congratulations! The AS redo will be a saving grace for your sanity... and you are not far away if needed...unless looking for parts...
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Exactly! My wife admits I'm happier with a project.
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01-28-2015, 09:01 PM
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#31
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Rivet Master
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teilhet
Exactly! My wife admits I'm happier with a project.
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You are doing good! AS a harley rider and now AS ... I think I gained weight!! hahaha
Also, yes.. it is better that my my 'project' is NOT my bride... at least according to her..=)
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
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01-29-2015, 08:03 PM
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#32
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2 Rivet Member
1960 22' Safari
Johnson City
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 71
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I'm making progress. I've found some corrosion on the cross member beneath the shower and most of the rear C channel is corroded through too .
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02-05-2015, 06:40 PM
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#33
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2 Rivet Member
1960 22' Safari
Johnson City
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 71
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I've continued forward with the demo. I had a model specific thread going under the 1960 Safari link, but it petered out.
I've gutted the trailer.
Removed the bottom interior lining.
Dropped the belly pan.
Now preparing to lift the shell off.
I've located the floor bolts and removed a few. I'm still surprised at how solidly attached the body stills feels.
Can anyone estimate the weight of the shell on the 22' safari? How many hands am I going to need to complete this?
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02-05-2015, 07:09 PM
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#34
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,322
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I'll guess 600 pounds. Window glass, wiring, insulation, half of the interior skins, what else? How about 6 people and 12 beers.
You will need to support the shell before lift off since you'll be picking it up from the lower half. I understand this is less necessary if you lift from the roof.
I've seen some folks use 4x4s and jacks. Saves beer.
David
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02-06-2015, 06:48 AM
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#35
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2 Rivet Member
1960 22' Safari
Johnson City
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216
I'll guess 600 pounds. Window glass, wiring, insulation, half of the interior skins, what else? How about 6 people and 12 beers.
You will need to support the shell before lift off since you'll be picking it up from the lower half. I understand this is less necessary if you lift from the roof.
I've seen some folks use 4x4s and jacks. Saves beer.
David
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Thanks!
Do you think I could use 2x4s longitudinally flat against the ceiling then use a posts straight up and down from there?
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02-06-2015, 06:18 PM
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#36
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,322
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I have yet to lift a shell from the subfloor, so I don't know. You will have to research some of the other threads.
I recall folks saying if you lift from the roof vent holes with a gantry and hoist and longitudinal supports the shell is stable enough to hold shape. But if you lift the shell from the bottom the side walls may buckle. I have seen pictures where folks tie support lumber from side to side at the formers and then x bracing to keep the walls from collapsing in on themselves.
Maybe it's a little like lifting an upside down paper grocery bag. You can lift it from the top okay. But lifting it from the sides causes the walls to buckle.
David
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02-06-2015, 07:45 PM
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#37
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2 Rivet Member
1960 22' Safari
Johnson City
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216
I have yet to lift a shell from the subfloor, so I don't know. You will have to research some of the other threads.
I recall folks saying if you lift from the roof vent holes with a gantry and hoist and longitudinal supports the shell is stable enough to hold shape. But if you lift the shell from the bottom the side walls may buckle. I have seen pictures where folks tie support lumber from side to side at the formers and then x bracing to keep the walls from collapsing in on themselves.
Maybe it's a little like lifting an upside down paper grocery bag. You can lift it from the top okay. But lifting it from the sides causes the walls to buckle.
David
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Good analogy. Thanks.
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02-07-2015, 01:29 PM
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#38
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2 Rivet Member
1960 22' Safari
Johnson City
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 71
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Successfully removed the shell this morning. Also removed the floor and found the perimeter all but disintegrated when we removed it. I'm wondering how I can recreate the curve now.
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02-08-2015, 05:45 AM
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#39
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,322
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Wow, you are really going at it and making good progress! I can't tell, but I hope your frame isn't too rusted. It won't be long before you reach that significant milestone from teardown to rebuild. Rebuilding takes a lot longer!
You're going to have to research how to recreate the corner curves on your new subfloor. Some folks make a template using the C-channel before the shell is lifted. Airstream builds the subfloor before they put the shell on, so they must have a drawing specifying the curves. I saw this while on the factory tour a couple of years ago. I used my belt sander plenty when I was fitting the new rear sub floor on my 66. You do have a little latitude as the shell attaches firmly to the C channel, and the C channel attaches firmly to the floor AND frame. The sub floor is sandwiched in between but the shell does not attach to the sub floor. Maybe this picture explains what I mean. You can see how i slipped the sub floor under the C channel but the floor does not precisely match the C channel perimeter.
How much beer did lifting the shell off cost you?
David
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02-08-2015, 06:37 PM
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#40
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2 Rivet Member
1960 22' Safari
Johnson City
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 71
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The frame needs some work, especially the back, where the bath was....I hoping the rest will clean up, or we can beef it up.
I was able to salvage a portion of both front corners, but nothing of the rear section. I'll try and trace the shell tomorrow hopefully.
I paid my friends with beer and pizza and my word that they could call on me next time they need a barn raised.
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