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Old 10-28-2008, 05:53 PM   #15
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Afterthought

The pilot may light but the oven won't after 10 minutes. Change the thermocoupler before going further. The thermocoupler is a little silver device whose tip is near the pilot flame. It has a long thin silver line that goes to the gas valve. It can be easily changed. Be sure to note how far it extends out at the pilot before removing. I mark it with a thin marker, then transfer the mark to the new thermocoupler. If you install the new one too far away, It won't get hot enough to tell the gas valve it's OK to turn on. If you install it too far into the flame, it's useful life will be shortened. Remove the old one & take it to any hardware store. They come in a variety of lengths. Get 1 too long & it will take longer than usual to light the pilot. Get 1 too short & it won't work at all.
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Old 10-28-2008, 08:25 PM   #16
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Well, I've looked and looked for the inverter and don't see it nor hear a hum (except 56 years of ringing in my ears). I pull the battery and get it tested. It seems to drain way too fast. I have a truck camper and put a whopper of a isolation switch on it. I'll do the same here to keep the battery from draining.

Still no luck on lighting the oven. the as line is hooked up and I don't see a cut off like on the stove top. The cut off is under the cowling, like you could get to it to turn off the gas if it were on fire. I may try to clean the pilot assembly or just replace it. I cant see a reason why the gas is not getting to the pilot.

I saw that the ceiling light lens can be replace for $15 each. Current ones are pretty brownish. White lens would make a smart difference.

I got an adapter for the sewer outfall. May get one with a hose connector to drain the grey water into a blue tote rather than use the 4 inch discharge hose.

I'll contemplate the HWH exchange back to gas/electric. Same with the heater. Wouldn't be too difficult to put a heater in, but I don't see the registers in the bedroom or bath. Are they in the floor? May be covered with carpet.

We plan on a maiden voyage Friday night. Can't wait to find out what I've missed in preparation.

How do you post pics?
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Old 10-28-2008, 08:39 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselgrin View Post
I'll contemplate the HWH exchange back to gas/electric. Same with the heater. Wouldn't be too difficult to put a heater in, but I don't see the registers in the bedroom or bath. Are they in the floor? May be covered with carpet.



How do you post pics?
The register for the rear furnace duct should be along the base of the bathtub, near the bulkhead between the tub and wardrobe, probably covered by carpeting. The front one should just kind of dump out under the front of the kitchen counter, also at the floor.
To post a picture, below the upper "submit reply", you will find a button marked "manage attachments". Click that, click "attach files", then choose the file you want to upload. Click "upload files", and when the window says it is done uploading, click "close window", then "submit reply".
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Old 10-28-2008, 09:21 PM   #18
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I got an adapter for the sewer outfall. May get one with a hose connector to drain the grey water into a blue tote rather than use the 4 inch discharge hose.
If I may make a suggestion here, use a 5/8" hose rather than 1/2". I found that the 1/2" hose got easily clogged and caused the grey water to back up through the floor drain of my rear wet bath. You could have the same thing happen only in yout tub. I switched to the 5/8" hose and have not had the same problem ever.
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Old 10-28-2008, 09:52 PM   #19
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Diesel would like to invite you to one of the Tidewater rallys, we have lots of members close to you and they would be happy to give you a lot of pointers. Our next rally is November 7-9 in Norge, VA drop a message to me if you are interested.
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:34 PM   #20
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Well, I couldn't get the oven to light. I don't see a shut off valve in line anywhere. I may have to remove the pilot and clean or replace.

I hven't found the inverter and I don't hear a hum. It may have been removed. I'm going to have the battery checked. It seems to be draining too quickly. The overhead light work fine when the battery is up, but quickly draw it down. I can keep a battery charger hooked up and trikle charge the battery.

I'll have to consider replacing the hot water heater and installing a furnace. Would cost about $700 to do both my self. I don't see the heat registers except one by the front door. If there are others, they may be under the carpet. Does anyone know?

I'm still looking for a grey water tank retro fit. Any idea where the links are? Thanks for everyone's help! It's a blessing!
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:40 PM   #21
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Rick,

Thanks for the invite. Is the rally an overnighter? Where are you staying? Would love to come see what the club is about! Going this Friday to Cheatham Annex to try to push all the trailer buttons i can figgure out. I'll hit your web site.
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Old 10-29-2008, 06:34 PM   #22
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Nice looking trailer! You're well on your way to being afflicted with aluminitis. FYI, there is no known cure.
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:05 PM   #23
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Disegrin,
I notice from your photos today that your 31' is a rear bath. That was the first year with center bath option. I had a 73 29'. It had two wardrobe closets between beds and bathroom. The original inverter in my 73 was under the bathtub, It was accessable from inside the closet on the curb side. There was a small panel about 10" square made out of the same material as the wall of the closet, 3/16" plywood. It was screwed on the surface like a "patch"with two screws. Once removed you could see the inverter. The original inverter had a little door you could open and inside were all the little glass buss fuses. There were also two larger glass fuses and fuse holders outside of the inverter , but screwed to the inside skin. These were each 50 AMP 12v DC main fuses, one for 12v+ and the other 12v-. The 110volt AC supply circuit breaker supplying the inverter, I believe was in the bathroom either in the cabinet next to the toilet or in a cabinet overhead, just can't remember for sure. I sold that trailer 18 years ago. CRE, can't remember everything. If the 110 isn't getting to the inverter because the breaker is tripped it won't hum. That was how it was when new, check it out. Charlie E.
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Old 10-29-2008, 08:55 PM   #24
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CharlieE, you have described what my unit looks like. The curb side closet does not have all the wall in place on the tub side. The fuse box you described is in place and all the fuses are good. I was unaware of the +/- 50 amp fuses. I saw a 40 on the exterior wall behind the tub, right over the battery box. The AC breaker box is on the exterior wall of the opposite closet. Both breakers seem to be functioning. A 110 outlet was installed beside the breaker and the household water heater plugs into it when needed. Is the fuse box/panel the inverter? I still don't hear a hum, but all the fuses are good. Possibly the battery is bad.

I really appreciate everyone's advice here. If i put my forum question in the wrong location, just let me know a better place. I have been a member of other camper forums, but none have so many intelligent folks with so much of that been there and done that advice. Already, I'm making a new home.
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Old 10-29-2008, 11:38 PM   #25
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converter

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Originally Posted by Dieselgrin View Post
The curb side closet does not have all the wall in place on the tub side. The fuse box you described is in place and all the fuses are good.
It does sound like the converter is bad. When you get ready to take it out, you will need to take the wires from the battery lose, and un-plug the the trailer. That is the safest way.

The VERY Heavy converter may be installed on a board that will slide out when you undo one or two screws.

Here is a link on how to install the new converter and panel


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Old 10-30-2008, 10:34 AM   #26
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Rick,

Thanks for the invite. Is the rally an overnighter? Where are you staying? Would love to come see what the club is about! Going this Friday to Cheatham Annex to try to push all the trailer buttons i can figgure out. I'll hit your web site.
Your photo clearlt shows that the axles are shot.

When you have good axles, you will see 2 to 3 inches of tire "above" the top of the wheels.

In your case, the top of the wheels are hidden.

Andy
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Old 10-30-2008, 04:09 PM   #27
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Dieselgrin,
Sounds like you found the inverter. The door on the end of the inverter opened to give access to the 12volt branch circuit fuses. I wonder if the PO who installed the electric water heater may have cut the 110volt supply line to the inverter and used it to power the outlet plug where he plugs and unplugs the water heater. I believe in the bottom half of the end of the inverter, under the 12volt fuses, you'll find the connections where the 110volt power feed to the inverter is connected to the inverter internal wiring. You can check presence of 110 there with a test lite or volt meter. I believe that our 73 had a shut off on the gas line to the wall oven . It may have been outside the trailer under the belly pan directly under the oven or under the lift up burner plate on the stove. Under the belly pan you should also see a gas shut off valve for the Suburnban Furnace ditectly below the furnace. Propane is heavier than air so the shut offs are outside in most cases. Charlie E.
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Old 10-30-2008, 09:06 PM   #28
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CharlieE,
Thanks. I'll check to see if 110 is coming in. There is a duplex outlet right above the fuse panel. Seems odd to be in that location, but is similar to the one on the road side closet for the HWH and breaker box. So the inverter and fuses are all one piece? I was looking for 2 boxes.

I checked for cut offs to the range and oven under and outside the trailer and did not find any. There is a cut off under the range lift. I still did not see another one. What about the oven dial? Do you have to depress the oven dial to light the pilot? I see it has a "pilot off" position. No pilot on. the booklet say to turn oven to 350 and that allows gas to get to pilot. Nothing more written.
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